Engine transmission swap

I believe the "mounts" are actually refering to the rubber portions of the mount that bolt to the chassis not the transmission. I don't see the part number for it readily. It's an actual bracket which bolts to the transmission - that in turn bolts to the mount.

its like 90% done... someone mail me at work tomorrow tsarbin@fastdatatech.com and say ' hey bitch, finish the write up of the manny swap ' LOL --- that'll kick me into gear

Ok here's some of the writeup:

Process for Manual Transmission SWAP

1) Remove center console - this will also have you remove the lower dash panels on the drivers side (knee bolster) and passengers side (glove box)

2) Remove the metal guard on the drivers side (located behind the knee bolster)

3) Remove the air duct that runs behind the knee bolster.

4) Remove all pre-punched cutouts in the insulation (there should be 2 - one where the clutch pedal mounts, one higher up under the dash (you can use the clutch pedal assembly to figure out where these are))

5) Using the clutch pedal assembly as a pattern - cut out the three holes necessary for the master cylinder bolts and plunger to clear the firewall. You can do this with a unibit and a hole cutter - you will want to use the smallest drill you can find to get it under the dash. This is one of the hardest steps in the entire process.

6) Once the holes are cut, loosen the nuts on the brake pedal assembly and remove it. You can now move the master cylinder for the brake system around to fit the master cylinder for the clutch system into place. Also this paves the way for you to replace the brake pedal.

7) Once the master cylinder is in place, you can bolt the clutch assembly into the car. At this time, also bolt the brake pedal assembly in (5spd version) and continue to use the same brake switch from the automatic in the 5spd version. This will be important.

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I recommend doing steps 1-7 and COMPLETING them prior to anything. This took me 2 hours - however I have experience in cutting in cramped places - it may take you a whole day, it may not. However - at any rate, you can still drive your car at this point.

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8) With the pedals installed you can now down your car for the next 2 days. LOL (jk it may only take a day for this if you plan it out right)

9) Remove the Automatic Shifter Assembly and ECU.

10) Follow the shift cable's path and locate the grommet's which hold it in place. There are 2 bolts on the interior grommet. Once this is removed - it's time to go under the hood.

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Now here's the huge debate... Honestly - the easiest way to swap the trans it to pull the motor. Now before you go ' omg! ' there is something that you must remember.

a) 3 of the 4 motor mounts are bolted to the transmission - only 1 is bolted to the engine.

b) most of the wiring harnesses you'll have to disconnect to move enough stuff out of the way to support the motor anyway, so that argument against removal of the engine is moot.

c) with the harness issue out of the way, you have an A/C line, power steering line, a few misc coolant hoses, 1 bolt and the engine is free. the transmission stuff was an obvious ' have-to '

d) this guide does not contain information on removal of the motor/trans - but there are some things to keep in mind. There are 4 mounts, 2 axles, quite a few wiring harness clips, hoses, etc.. etc.. just take your time and you'll be able to pull it.

Once again, I highly recommend the removal of the entire engine/transmission assembly for this portion. If I had done this - I would have saved at LEAST 5-6 hours. The rear motor mount HATES life when the motor is still in place, so its your call. The rest of this will assume you did remove it all.

For the record - my record time on a full motor swap on a 1ZZ-FE is 4 hours - removal, transmission move, replacement, cranked. Total time it took us to cram the friggin transmission into the engine bay with the motor still there attached to its one mount and supported - 8 hours.

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11) Remove Transmission (and hopefully it was attached to the motor)

12) Remove exterior shift cable grommet, remove shift cable. (which should have been disconnected from the trans when you pulled it, lol)

13) run the shift and select cables for the manual transmission - ensure that you have placement correct and the grommets all bolt into place without a bunch of tension on the cables (ie its not pressed up against the steering rack or anything)

14) Once the shift cables are in place and the exterior grommet is bolted up - bolt up the inside grommet. Once this is comlete, bolt the shifter assembly in. I recommend at this time you may want to upgrade the shifter to the short shifter. -- Once the shifter is in place, you may plug up the ECU and mount it.

15) Swap the transmission on the block. Make sure you torque the flex plate and clutch correctly and everything mates up. Once this is complete, you're almost set. Also make sure you bolted the transmission brackets (which matches to the rubber motor/trans mounts) in place. - remember you can use the front and rear from the automatic but the top-drivers-side must be the correct one you get from Toyota.

16) Make sure the master cylinder hydraulic line is mounted up to the master cylinder and to the chassis. There is a small clip on the line which matches up to a hole on the chassis where you can bolt it. Make sure the slave cylinder line is bolted to the transmission correctly. If these two are correct, the rubber line will go right in smoothly.

17) Drop the engine back in and bolt everything up. (4 bolts for the mounts first people, hehe) Once the engine/trans is secured, hook up the shifter cables, lower wiring harnesses, hoses, upper wiring harnesses. (in that order)

18) You're done. Exception the tiny detail of now your car won't crank... I'll post up the stuff later and if someone happends to do this swap before I do, PM me and let me know so I can give you the info on the wiring. NO WIRING IN THE CAR IS TO BE TAMPERED WITH! THE ONLY WIRING YOU NEED TO MODIFY IS ON THE HARNESS THAT WAS ATTACHED TO THE AUTO TRANS!

I'll leave it at that for now. I'll log back in here and there and make changes to the instructions adding more detail. But if you can think outside the box a little - this will give you enough info to do it. Also, if there is something you guys have specific questions on, let me know - i'll come back and edit those particular sections. This is the best I could squeeze out in about 20-30 minutes today. But at least its enough to get started and see what you're getting into.

1) Correct

2) YES It's 100% necessary. I tried with the auto - and omg can we say CEL city!? lol I have another M/T ECU in my garage... if you have no luck finding one.

I did my swap @ 108K - no issues there - yes I do have a M/T ECU available, PM me.

yeah I can take a pic - but the wiring stays the same when you do a swap. you don't hook up the clutch-start switch. you --- could --- but its a SERIOUS pain in the ass.

I'll see what I can do - hard to take those pics under the hood with my turbo piping in the way. did you get my PM about the ECU?

I never replaced em and never had a problem. I PM'd ya on here man.

yeah ill be online.

hehe why worry about wiring in resistors? hehe i *know* it works, but... why?

it's easier just to plug in the ECU.