Slotted rotors, do you really brake better?

what do you recommend for brake pads and ss lines? I was just looking to get OEM pads with brembo blank rotors now.

I've asked the sellers that are actually shops and they all said that they drill and slot them IN HOUSE! Thanks I'm goning with blanks

I have Brembo Cross Drilled and Slotted and Raybestos Cermaic Pads and that combo is absoluty outstanding. No fade at all little to no brake dust on my rims. If you like to takeon the back roads and twistes get them.

I also shorted my stopping distances

why do you need titanium brakes? lol

yeah cross drilled and slotted rotors make a lot of noise compared to stock.

i can attest to the "decelerating whirling" noise. under harder than normal braking you will hear a winding down noise... sounds cool in my opinion.

under light braking it isn't noticeable.

Quote from bmw's team when asked why the new m3 has a wimpy set of brakes "You can only brake as much as the tires will let you." Or something along that line, lol.

I have no noise coming from my aftermarket brakes

a big brake kit might have better pedal feel and more fade resistance... but it stilwont stop any faster... unless you also put grippier rubber on your car

u kno dat from experience or just readin up on stuff? get ur facts straight...

Hmmm... how about you contact some brake manufacturers and ask them if with OEM brakes in good working order vs. an aftermarket big brake kit with the same rubber if there will be any shorter stopping distance... might be a variation of +- a few feet, but thats all, sometimes you will even stop in a longer distance. But with the big brake kit, you will have improved fade resistance and your brake pedal should feel alot better... and yeah, if you really want facts, just let me know, i'll gather you a few huors of reading...

yes i am pretty sure he meant resurfaced.

LOL...are you sure you didn't get your rotors RESURFACED? From your description that is what they did, rectification is something completely unheard of...

Slotted and cross-drilled are techniques to accomplish the same thing. I personally would see no reason to EVER have cross-drilled AND slotted. If I were faced with a choice b/w the two, I would CERTAINLY choose slotted because slotted rotors won't crack. The idea is to reduce pad fade. All brake pads have a designated temperature range with a good coeffecient of friction up to a certain temperature. In general, organic pads suck and will fade easily at high temps. Semi-metalic pads do ok at low temps and have a good coeffecient of friction at higher temp. Full metallic suck at low temp and have to be a very high temps to work well. Carbon is the best of all worlds and probably is the best of all - they are just semi-metallic pads with carbon added to improve high temp stability. But once the maximum temperature for any pad is reached, one or more of the components of the pads can melt or glaze or vaporize - usually all three. That's what causes pad fade. A slotted or drilled rotor helps to displace the vapor, but won't help the glazing or melting. Cooling effect is nil with this rotor. Bottom line in cooling is how much heat can the rotor dissipate. And the only way to dissipate heat is increase surface area - and you may have guessed it....LARGER ROTORS! That's the only way.

With larger rotors, heat is dissipated more quickly so that with high braking temps where brake pads perform their best (assuming semi-metalic or carbon), they won't get overheated due to the rotor not being able to release the heat quickly enough.

Fluid fade (boiling) can be reduce by using a higher quality brake fluid. SS brake cables only improve pedal feel. Some people believe the stock brake cables will kind of "balloon" out or expand which causes brake fade....sorry but I've never heard of this. I believe it would most likely rupture before it did this.

And assuming you're NOT getting any kind of brake fade, bigger rotors are NOT going to help stopping distance unless you're getting fade with the stock setup. Braking distance is going to be the best (lowest) at impending lock-up forever and ever, amen. If the stock system can manage this without fade, then bigger rotors aren't going to make any difference. At that point, it simply comes down to your contact with the pavement - the tires.

Late,
Trav

Oh, no...not the c/d rotor debate all over again. Look, if you don't want to do your research, let me boil it down to you: cross drilled and slotted rotors are "rice" items, simply because they do not improve braking performance. There is no reason to think slotted rotors will offer any improvement in heat management, or coefficient of friction. Moreover, the heat issue can easily be solved by picking a set of pads appropriate for the intended temperature range. Increased coefficient of friction, less pad fade, etc. can all be easily taken care of by selecting the right pads. So why do people buy them? What about all the manufacturer advertising gizmo claims? Because they "look cool" behind those rims, just like how that aluminum wing "looks cool" on your trunk.

Now, I had BREMBO cross-drilled rotors (they were CHAMFERED!!) And I had tiny circumferencial STRESS CRACKS along several of the holes. Additionally, the rotors warped and caused braking shudder, and rapid pad wear. THEY SUCKED ASS! I put my stock ones back on, and all those problems went away.

NOW IF YOU STILL GO BUY SOME DESPITE READING THIS AND THE WEALTH OF INFORMATION OUT THERE, AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH (MENTAL SCREAM)

Botched installation - good possibility.

For looks? I think so. Or to compensate for crappy brake pads...take your pick. Bottom line is drilling or slotting only helps to remove the vapor gases that cause the pads to kind of "hydroplane" on the disc (pad fade). But they wouldn't be vaporizing if the rotor could dissipate the heat. That alone says the rotor isn't giving up the heat fast enough - overheated brakes. Fix for that - more surface area - larger brake discs or higher quality brake pads.

Late,
Trav

Oh ok, so you're saying the stress cracks were a result of possibly overtorqed lug nuts? I never knew how idiotic you were until now.

Show me a REAL race car like an F1 car or equivalent that uses c/d or slotted rotors.

This is off TIRERACK.COM, and they make money from selling these rotors! Yet they're still saying:

IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...roStop+II+Rotor

Off the Baer Brakes website:

What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Zinc washing is then done to provide a barrier, which resists development of surface scales or rust.

http://www.baer.com/Support/FAQ.aspx



Look, it's pretty simple, the only possible benefit c/d or slotted rotors can POSSIBLY provide is expel gasses. Therefore, as long as you choose the correct set of pads for your intended use, THERE IS NO INCREASE IN BRAKING PERFORMANCE. Which is why I still believe the main factor behind these purchases is:
1) looks
2) misinformation/misleading marketing
3) sponsership programs offered to amateur race teams that need to replace their rotors so often that the disadvantages are not an issue

^
Bingo. Someone lock this thread now...

nice post superpilun, dont forget the "whoosh" sound too!