Engine New: MWR Toyota 1ZZ-FE Big Bore Kit

sweet im starting to really consider doing real engine work now. Just know I would have amazingly high install costs.

Excellent, they have valves too. Good find.

this is one of those times that i wish my rolla wasn't leased

hmm

so i wonder what kind of HP this will produce....

well with just the 11:1 comp. pistons i would guess somewhere near 150hp? (rough guess) then add a cai, headers, cat-back, get it tuned... u'd be makin plenty of power :twisted:

...nice find.

reduced integrity

will this make the engine weaker, and will you be able to use a sc or turbo on top of this

I heard that if you want a turbo in your car, the smaller the compression the better? The page said this too. Why Is this true, and if so then would smaller compression be the way to go?

turbos compress air, so its squeezing more air into the cylinder, effectively raising the compression ratio. If the engine has a high static compression ratio to start with and you start adding more air you'll eventually reach a point where pump gas doesn't have enough octane to prevent detonation, even with tuning, sometimes there is just too much air. Engines with lower static compression ratios can run higher boosts more reliably since the engine isn't compressing as much air to begin with. Thats without getting into fuel and engine strength considerations

Re: reduced integrity

The cylinders are resleeved after they are bored, so it will actually make that part of the engine stronger. And the lower compression pistons are designed specifically for forced induction

so i could

edit see below
sorry for double post im new

so i could

then i could lets say put a sf turbo kit in with the bore, plus an unchip and be looking at a safe drivable vehichle, pricy but hella fast, or is it too much, what do you guys suggest

edit i
m looking to be in the 200-230 hp range

Well If you want to stick with the current engine, Id say you could definitly get up to the 230 mark. Thinking turbo=40, CAI=15 (turbo + CAI = lots of hp), headers=15, exhaust = 1-5 lol Unichip I dont know about but thats about 205 to 210 rihgt there and my estimates are definitly on the conservative side.

Well If you want to stick with the current engine, Id say you could definitly get up to the 230 mark. Thinking turbo=40, CAI=15 (turbo + CAI = lots of hp), headers=15, exhaust = 1-5 lol Unichip I dont know about but thats about 205 to 210 rihgt there and my estimates are definitly on the conservative side.

that's half correct. When you get yourself a turbo, you dont need the CAI anymore. The turbo kit has another set of piping for the intake, header. What really matters when you get the turbo is the amount of boost to achieve the hp range you want.

you also have to remember that those numbers are hypothetical. Meaning you wont actually see them whp (wheel horse power) when you're on the dyno. But you'll see some of it. But not what we hope for, and the promises in magazines.

Really? Some of my friends were saying you can put a CAI with a turbo?

...on some cars the turbo is placed in such a manner that a CAI can be used (ie Mazdaspeed Protege). However, this can not be easily done in 1ZZ-FE powered Corollas...when I was considering a turbo for my car and watched the install and dev of a turbo kit for vvti.net member's car I asked this question. After seeing the final turbo kit project it simply wouldn't be worth the effort.

if ur gonna intercool it anyway, whats the point of putting a CAI on, other then to possibly hydrolock ur engine really easy

I see my mistake. I make alot of those about cars.

any more input regarding the big bore kit??

sorry if my response is a bit too late, but i dont see the need for a bore kit if you're running a naturally aspirated setup. Yeah, it'll definitely help strengthen the engine, and couple hp here and there. Unless you're running boost, ie turbo or sc, i would spend my 850 dollars on something else.

no its ok...

i am not running n/a... i am running on sf turbo kit...

so this is a good kit? even with wiseco pistons? or should i go with je pistons?

I haven't known MWR to sell lousy parts. Both Wiseco and Crower have been around for a good while and I haven't heard anything bad about them yet.

I think this is a good use of your money. It would really help anyone wanting to go for the forced induction approach. LEt me know if anyone does it, and how it works out.