Engine new cams

I emailed www.psiracing.com about cams -- they can do it as well.

ok i am impressed by this topic but monkeywrench has rods for vvti models only and they have a sleeve kit that includes nodular iron sleeves and forged pistons required to punch your stock 1.8L 1ZZ-FE engine out to an 82.0mm bore (Just under 2.0L), and Wiseco forged alloy pistons (including high performance rings and pins) are included with the kit in your choice of compression ratio i am gonna go for n/a so they 11.0:1 all for $849.00 plus install now they have croweer rods which are for vvti only so why not upgrade the head? but my question is what else is involved!?! i know maf vs map is an issue. i also know that ecu is another, anything else need to be considered cause i am really interested in doing this and i need all the help i can get hopefully the parts will be in by mid jul and i will have em all installed in aug-sep i want 180-220 at the wheels N/a any advise would help money isn't an issue turbo is not an option

Well if money isn't an option....Go for my dream, get somebody to custom fabricate you quad individual throttle bodies with veloctiy stacks. Though with maf (dunno about map), your gonna have to have a box instead of stacks. You will have an awesome sounding engine, and it will raise your power a decent amount.

edit- Also find somebody that will port and polish and do a valve job.

I don't see why the Crower rods won't work in a non-VVTi engine..they're basically the same thing, no?

Also -- I seriously doubt you'll pick up another 100hp just from .2 liters and 11:1 compression..you would probably be better off putting that 2k ($849 + $749 + boring/installation) towards a turbo.

there must be a way since it's electronically controlled to set it at a certain I+L.. making it come on earlier...

one question why isn't turbo an option?

OK here is the thing everyone refers back to turbo/superCharger i can't have that when i put the car on 5-12 hr roadtrips 2-3 times a year all bull$hit aside it is a fact(excuse the language) and i need to be N/A so all u wizards can't think of a way to get it there n/a? cause i am really dissap civics can run 250 n/a easy how come we can't??? this is a better car than a civic so what else do i need ok lets say all the previ stuff rods new head new pistons add C/A-intake plus headers exhaust add new fuel pump new lines rails and one of those little electronic fuels controlers cause i only use sunoco 94+ anyway ok now add sum new wires and pluggs ... the 4 port thing sounds really expensive for a minimal gain... basically i got 5 grand and i am not going F/I so where do i put it??? cause i have 16's ready new tires and tokico's paired with dz's all ready for my baby new and i have crossdrilled and slotted rotors and green stuff pads so i can turn and stop now i just have to get up and go from the turns!!! PS 50hp is nice but then i will be investing in the scion tc but i prefer my rolla and 220 n/a just sounds right on the corolla wouldn't u agree?

too much money, the machine shop will rip you off, the kit is 850, the rods are about 700... The power from all this will hardly be 50 hp even with individual throttle bodies. Try forced induction or even save up for a another car with more potential(no hondas )

Crower rods and Wiseco pistons installed...I have a 98 (non-vvti) and have no problems. However, I am considering the NA route as well, but I'm not lookin' for 100 extra horses (50 would be nice).

Isn't 13:1 compression a little touchy?

I asked MWR about going big bore with 11:1, and they said a turbo is going to provide much more power..

13:1 compression on the street is a bit high. You might need to mix in some 100 octane fuel to reduce ping.

The S2000 pulls 200hp at the crank n/a, and that's with what, a 9000rpm redline? You're not going to get that out of a 1zz..even the 2zzge in the Lotus Elise pulls 190hp -- and that's with lift..

Lotus claims 190 at a weight of a bit under 2000 pounds... a corolla s is around 2400 at only 125 hp... A built engine is better anyways... Besides power isn't everything...

Balanced crankshaft and pistons. Overbore to just under a 2.0 i think its like 1.93 or something.. higher comp too... port and polish the intake and exhaust in the head... get a 3 or 5 valve grind job.... cams obviously... don't do pulley's you'll just rob the engine of power... metal head gasket... MSD ignition system... get someone to ramp the redline too... stage 2 setup for your tranny... bigger fuel injectors and fuel pump aux will do wel... a tranny cooler... hmm...

This should all come to under 5g's...

(You're right...1.934 liters or 1934 cc's...something like that.)
Don't forget MWR's valves, valve springs, ARP studs, Nexus industry catback/header w/higher flow cat, and an ECU tune (JET performance or somebody) to balance what you have now and probably bump the redline to 7000 RPM. Shoot, with that, you'd probably get at least 50 extra...to the wheels.

Oh, and while I'm at it...about those Hondas pulling more horses NA. Check it out: those guys HAVE to swap their engines and build them for those higher power levels. Not to mention they have basically UNLIMITED aftermarket support as well. I mean, look at what we're talking about_: we would be modifying the ORIGINAL engine the car came with. How many of those Honda owners can claim that?

Almost forgot: the only ballpark swap we can really do to our car "NA" would be to switch up to the 2ZZGE and build that. I recall some time ago there was a company that had a stroker kit for the 2ZZ that would include forged rods with the 1ZZ stock length (91.5mm) and pistons running 13:1 compression. With all modifications in mind, couple that with the already installed VVTL-i you've got yourself 200+ to the wheels and within S2000 territory.

If you have all the dough, and you hate turbos that much, then I'd say build it up. [not hating] But a 2.0 w/ 11:1 flowmatched with a totally redone head(valves, springs, ground cams, etc..) w/ stand-alone wont keep up with a 1.8 with stock internals boosted @7psi w/ piggyback and timer. Even worse, it will cost at least $1k more.

The stroker engine is the 2zz. 13:1 would be touchy in most engines, but it starts at 11.5:1. Its a freaking oversized yamaha mortocycle engine. And you wouldnt have to change sleeves or grind cams. Maybe not even any ECU at all. BTW, all 76 gas stations carry 100 octane, or buy octane booster in 4-packs at walmart...

If you have all the dough, and hate turbos that much, get the 2zz and build IT. Its a better platform for what youre trying to achieve.

But a boosted 1zz would still waste you in a 1/4 mi.....

Also, grinding cams makes them weak, VVTi is always on, and if you really want to know about how it works, buy a $14 Haynes manual, its all in there in pictures for anyone to see.

Thank you, sir! Exactly...totally right on. Either way though, it's all what you want and what your shooting for.

Don't do anything. Save up for something else! All these high numbers give me a headache and make me feel broke without really being broke. Just do the high compression pistons without the big bore and all the boltons. That shouldn't make the car that slow. With around 150-160 its still fun to drive.

Exactly. Simplicity is key and that's what I'm shooting for.