my AE112 Corolla

depends on your performance needs.

you dont want to use the 7a bottom end on a performance application , through that idea out. for a good bullit proof forced induction engine use a 20v 4age block (oil squirters at mains) 4agze internals (ceramic coated and forged) and gze head (big port) or reinforced f head (low end torque quicker , drift) then run turbo or s/c of your choice w/ front mount intercooler and nitrogen intercooler sprayer.

for na application you want the 4age 20v bt block , bored and honed (oil squirters on mains) 20v bt head port and polish , valve overhaul , machine the valve seats , reinforce the springs . hks 272 duration cams and hks adjustable cam gears. forged , dome top pistons for higher compression . 4agze crank and rods (forged) a good CAI and 2.75 exhaust.

im still looking for info on a stroker. 4a block , 7a rods and crank , and 20v bt head

the turbo engine is best for mid to high range torque (drift , circuit )

the na engine is best for low to mid range torque (low speed drifting , autocross , arena)

My ride is for daily use but sometimes I want to smoke the B16A Honda

exactly right, the "F" head has valve angles that make the combustion chamber smaller to improve burning of the air/fuel mixture. there is increased low RPM velocity which allows for a better burn which we all know creates more power. this all leads to boost coming on at lower RPMs and increased power for the same air/fuel mixture when it is burned. the 7A-FTE is a force to be reckoned with.

the twin-charged gze that i posted does 14's.

the 20-v head is not recomended for a turbo or forced induction . its a small port head , the 16 valve gze head is a big port .(in most cases) . some people even have the belief , that the f head is better in some forced induction applications , because of the sharper valve angle allows low end torque to come on at lower revs. however if the f head is used , reinforced valve springs and port and polish is recomended.

sure, if you define comfort by being pushed into your seat when you step on the gas! lol

actually it depends on your driving style, but yes a lower RPM boosting motor should be smoother since the turbo spools at low RPM instead of kicking in at high rpms and getting a jolt of power.

basically, drivability is improved.

Great. Thanks 4 your advise. Maybe it's better to keep my money for future turbocharge.

So you guys think that 7a-fte is slightly better than 7a-ge 20v? even 7a-gte?

i would say for the street and short circuits, it is slightly better.

Is it more comfortable for daily driving? I live in a crowded city, many traffic jams occure everytime I drive my car >_<

a bit off-topic but i've actually been wondering ang meaning to ask... where do you live? i always thought they released that version of the ae111 (combination of extended bumpers, t-grille, horizontal tail lights, jdm headlamps) here in the philippines and in taiwan... that's more or less what my car looked like when i first got it.

oh wait... correction... it did a 13.8.

to legobrainboy: I live in Indonesia. I thought In Philippines the Rolla use non-JDM taillamp. (like an Aussie version Corolla AE112)

98-99 they used the jdm taillamps. 2000-2001 they started using the eudm taillamps (round) like this...

Oh ic. Is there available aftermarket euro tail lamps with clear sign corner? BTW Is it come with 7A-FE engine?

like i say before man , you want to steer away from using the 7a block on a forced induction engine or any performance platform. its bottom end is weak! and you will have to put more money in it down the road. the 7a performance engines become very unreliable when boost or different heads are thrown at it.

yeah i think there are clear-cornered euro taillamps available from taiwan but they're not that good because the clear part is actually kinda pinkish. anyway, the corolla came out here with 3 choices for the engine - 2E (1300cc 12v carbureted) or 4afe or 7afe.

to shubert: I will boost 7a-fe about 6-7 Psi bro. Is 7A-FE able to handle it? should I use gze forged piston?

to legobrainboy: Do you have the clear euro lamp pics ?

its not the pistons to worry about , its the bottom end , thats weak , i know the 4afe has a compression ratio of 10:1:1 so if the 7afe has near that comp ratio then your also going to have to lower the compression which equals head work.

listen man , you dont want to use the 7a for a performance application . why build a sorry enginr that toyota has already built stronger and better in performance . if a 7a block was dependable w/ a g head , dont you think toyota would offer it considering its a 1.8 ? theres a reason they did not connect a g head to the 7a block. 1. being that the 7afe is an economy engine the only reason it was produced is because when stricter emission laws were passed , the neccesary adjustments that had to be made to the 4afe made the engine simply underpowered. so toyota designed the 7a to compensate for power loss in the 1.6 w/ an added 200 cc. why do you think the hp numbers are so close?

bigger is not always better . sure 200 cc more seems like it would help in the torque area , but the fact is , it takes longer for bigger displacements to climb rpm's to reach optimum operation range. if you want the advantage of a bigger displacement , then bore the cylinders on a 4agze , this goes back to building an engine toyota already has.

there is only one corolla that came factory w/ a 7afe turbo , and it was only avail in australia . for the money you will put in the 7a to make it reliable and perform flawlessly when the b16a aggitates you . you will have spent enough to put in a real performance engine (3sgte or 4agze) that is reliable and has plenty of punch stock. but also has many aftermarket performance upgrades .

for ex. there are no aftermarket cams to be found for the f head. the 4afe block and the 4age block are different even after the head. yes same displacement and same internal sizes , but the 4a fe and 7afe bottom ends are not forged. where as in all 4age's (20v st bt , 16v rt , 16v blt, and gze) are all forged.

look at some poss engine swaps if you want real reliable daily driven performance. but if nobody can convince you of this , if you use the g head on the 7a then also grab a porsche 924(i think) timing belt. because the f head has a slave cam setup w/ only one sproket . the g had has a true twin cam setup.

Oh ic. It can be seen that 4a-FE(115 hp) and the stock horsepower of 7A-FE only 120 hp( with 200 cc bigger displacement, it such a poor improvement ^_^). Thanks for the advise bro.<br />
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What about 3S-GE? Is it need a fantastic improvement? (suspension, brake, mounting, etc)

heres a pic of a few engines that will fit in your rolla . and their descriptions. the 3sge and gte will fit w/ minor modifications . the 4a's are direct bolt replacements.
this is a "beams" na 3s-ge

this is a 4agze

this is a 3sgte

this my favorite , but good luck getting youre hands on 1. this is a toyota / kool atlantic series engine its out put is around 300 hp. its a turboed black top . mad hp but not reliable daily driver.

for a daily driven boosted engine you might also want to consider the 4efte. it's small at 1300cc but surprisingly durable so you can raise the boost pressure a bit by using a mitsu turbo (td04) or an aftermarket turbine. not sure if it'll be enough to go against the b16a but it just might with the right tuning...

to legobrainboy: oh no. I won't swap my 132 hp 7a-fe to 135 hp 4e-fte althought it is turbocharged

to shubert: Whoa. The 1st picture. I like that dual VVT-i 3S-GE, but it's difficult to find here. Junkyard in my country prefer 3S-GTE to 3S-GE

3sgte is good , if you can find one with a celica front drive tranny , and axles , not mr2

You have 132hp on your 7afe? woow!

not on the wheel hp bro.It's on the flywheel (tested at 4th gear)

But I heard that Corolla chassis is not good enough to handle 3S-GTE for daily driving. &gt;_&lt;

DO YOU DOG YOUR CAR ? the e-10 and e-11 chassis of the WRC seemed to handle it well . i think your refering to being heavy in the front end . nothing that a little suspension mods like stiffer rate springs , or celica struts and springs wont solve.
i dont see how it would not be good enough , hell its lighter than the celica the 3sgte came out of , so less strain on engine. like i say unless you just absolutely dog your car (high rev clutch ddumping , the auto reverse drive burnout , etc.)

i look at it this way ........................ the 92-93 celica st's had 4a-and 7a-fe engines, so does our corollas , so people do the 3sgte on the celica st's that carried the 4afe and 7afe , and if you have ever looked , the mounts are exactly the same . so if that body style celica started out with our engines , then toyota putin a more performance engine . same mounts and locations used for the 4afe and 7afe. this is a common swap among 90's model celica's

check this guy out , he knows his shit as well: pheonixtuning.com

oh yes. I guess that's the point The front end will be very heavy But if it just like what you said (only need to exchange the springs and maybe the shocks), it will be a nice way to get &gt;200 hp . FYI: Here in my country, the cost for adding a turbocharger or swapping to 3S-GTE are same (approx US$ 2000- 3000)

yeah , if i were you i would definitly weigh out my options with a 4a-gze (te) , 4a-ge 20v bt , or the 3sgte . the 7a is really not worth it.