Engine mwr bigbore kit?

how do you like em? any difference?

Not really, other than the fact that you have that feeling of satisfaction that the internals won't fail on you. The engine just feels like it's running stronger...can't really explain it, just does.

what is your comp. ratio on the pistons?

since the rods and pistons are lighter... do they rev up faster? any difference on that? since ur reducing rotational weight...

8.8:1 compression; forged dished pistons

Not too sure, because when I reinstalled the engine, I put in a lightweight billet aluminum flywheel as well. There's definitely quicker revs and acceleration has improved a little.

oh, I'll be putting the 11.1 comp ratio pistons in it. So i can feel the NA POWAH!!!!

Word! Much respect for anyone going NA route. Definitely make as much power as you can out of the 1ZZ.

I bought 8.8:1 in my to put turbo on it so it will last can't wait til it is finnished

Yea, I figure I'll be different than all the turboed rollas, Something about high revving power just appeals so much to me.

lol. ne1 else notice i posted in nearly every thread in "engine and drivetrain"????

nice car shifty, looks like mine! champagne 01/02
if i had the money i'd go N/A route.

Got it and going that way- an easier and WAY cheaper way to raise compression is to deck the head. Taking .001 or .002" off the bottom of the head. It lowers the displacement minimally, but I can expect 11:1 compression. Have the eManage wired in w/ support tool(love it) to tune, got the A/F guage and just sent off for a pillar and 2 more guages. Decking the head cost $50. Its a extra I got 2 months ago, ready to slap in.

Think about it, if a skinny head gasket can increase compression to 10.3:1 what could taking off .002" do? Remember, toyota is a non-interference engine. loosing about 20cc's of displacement is well worth it. Been researching the block- its a 2-piece, the bottom end is iron and very strong. rods are also typical toyota over-engineering. The more I see, the more I like the toyota mechanical engineers and hate the electronic engineers...

This is a factory engineered torque engine for N/A w/ headcooling jackets. Made to rev to 7000 with high low-to-mid range tq curve. Giving it steroids seems natural. The higher compression begs to have the celi TB and header, at least the TB

A sleeve and piston job gets the displacement back and then some w/ higher compression.

Im just gonna increase comp and run N2O for "supercharger-like power" for racing. Got the eManage, if I need ignition or injector changes I wil buy the harness, and wallah. Looks like a little stroker motor.

I think its the best way to get better power safely, then have N2O to try to get to 200hp/180tq at the wheels, so about 165/155 to the wheels all the time. Safely , for a long time. I kinda like this little car.

You'll pick up 50hp just from higher compression? If so, heck, I might as well skip a turbo and go 1.9l 11:1 n/a (following your numbers, that would give ~170whp?)..

Higher compression won't give you 50hp, The higher revs and more fuel going into the NA motor will give you 50hp, but just the pistons alone wouldn't give you 50 hp.

Very good, kids. You need a full exhaust, celi intake and TB, at LEAST a piggyback ECU, pulleys, etc. Higher comp doesnt do everything, but if you were otherwise stock, and your ECU could handle it(it cant), going from 10:1 to 11:1 should get you 25 at the crank alone. Thats not for every engine. Were blessed w/ having a stroker setup factory. I have my eManage piggyback wired up. Its tuned now for whats in there(Im basically 15-40% over factory depending on throttle pos. & RPM), I have an extra head.

Extra head(complete) $200
eManage & Support tool $425
Decking the head $35
A/F analog meter $70
downpipe back exhaust $160
'03 exhaust to cut&weld $200
Total cost $1090 for at least 30hp all the time.
N2O $700
Total for 200HP $1790
Add more for celi TB or in. header, or name brand intake. I have neither. I got a celi BOMZ intake, or whats left of it.
Now, all of the installs I have done or will do. Thats where I save money. I'm sure most peole have to go have it done. So their costs will be much higher. But same w/ a turbo or S/C. I also like the idea of safer power, the block is really not ready for 10:1 w/ 7psi. You can do it safe for about 30-40K miles, and not hating those that have, but Im not too confident with it.