Engine I would like to raise my redline

I hope for all your time, you will be satisfied with your results.

now this is wiring:


it's actually quite simple....... all wires going to the green box are engine sensors and injectors (and ground/12V).... "black cable" was made, only like 25 solders per side, then wire in a relay for power to the edis4 controller and injectors and wire in the edis.... but it looks pretty bad

that's not quite true.... a larger fuel pump probably won't help only because toyota uses larger than necessary fuel pumps in their cars....

toyota fuel pumps only have 2 wires going to them..... negative (ground) and postive.... it's turned on via an "open circuit" relay (at least the old way it was done... i'm sure there's something similar or the same still) which basically turns on the fuel pump.... fuel pump just pumps fuel into the lines...... the fuel pressure regulator is what regulates the fuel into the fuel rail, and amount of fuel sprayed is determined by the injector size..... all the ecu does is change the duration that the injector is open for (in mS) via a ground signal......

so essentially you could add more fuel by using a much larger injector and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.... but there's no use

i've learned by going into the garage and working on the car.... if i stumble across something i don't know i try to figure it out.... if i can't, then i'll search and/or ask people on technical forums......

Maybe I need to clarify. Toy90- you have a reason, I get it , its not a 1ZZ ECU or motor. Not to say you arent a capable electrician. You know what youre talking about. About A series engines, though. When I say "get HP" I mean any advantage that shifting at 7K is better for speed than at 6400. When racing w/ a basically stock 1zz keeping the RPMs between 4K and 5.8K is where you want to be. Check a dyno. So 6.4K+ makes no sense. Unless youre boosting or boring, needless to say. My .02.

do you think whee is still a member?

could you put a different fuel pump and bigger fuel injectors in ... would that increase the redline... i dont want to do it im just curious

id like to know where the heck that everyone gets all this knowledge and know how and stuff... im just now getting into the automotive field and in my second automotive class and finding out theres a heck of a lot of info in the automotive field... redlining... fuel management.... damn

bigger injectors will spray for fuel becauise the pressure hasnt changed... you then need to get a piggyback or fuel engine management to change the inujector duration

the new 98+ use a returnless system but it still uses a FPR the fpr however is built into the housing with the pump. No need to get a new fuel pump if the pressure isnt dropping just change injector pulse or get new injectors...

be sure to have a better ignition system (msd or something) too. fine electrode platinum or iridium plug is a must to get rid of misfire. Modern engine are hard to raise the redline unless you changed or tweak the ECU! Carby engine could do it without any mod. For example, my stock carby 1.3 2A redlined at 6k but i go for 7.9k rpm with no harm!!

please don't go beyond 7k rpm on stock internal, especially the valvetrain and con-rods

celica GT ECU is a plug and play for the 2003 Corollas.

car will run alot better and the redline goes to 7000.

i did it. to a friends car.

If you go through that hassle(this is for 98-02's) then make a harness to accept the Celica GT ECU and get the fuel map too.

is no hassle for the 2003 up Corolla, just exchange the ecu thats it.

for the 2001-2002 wont work the transmission is different wont shift

Dynos

Here are some 03 Dynos for your research, without FI the power drops off near redline.

SC'd
http://memimage.cardomain.net/membe...99/694320_8.jpg

N/A 03 Auto Rolla Dyno with AEM CAI
http://memimage.cardomain.net/membe...9/694320_14.jpg

N/A 03 Auto Rolla Dyno with SRI
http://memimage.cardomain.net/membe...9/694320_15.jpg

N/A 03 5 Speed Rolla Dyno with AEM CAI and Muffler
http://memimage.cardomain.net/membe...9/694320_16.jpg

What the heck are you talking about... the main reason for the redline is vibration and balance. The engine will destroy itself yes... but not from heat that will melt it down, more from damaged bearings and higher stresses than the engine was designed for. Friction will also be an issue as the 1.8 being a longer stroke motor will have a higher piston speed which causes more friction and can cause rod stretch. This can weaken the rods and along with the increased vibration of over revving can send one through the block.

Just another thought... the Celica engine may have better internal balancing to get it to run in that range reliably... this isn't all about computers and fuel... physics will play a huge part as well...

Ive stated before and will again: The engine is made to redline @ 6400 and trying to get it to 7000 is absolutely pointless. You would make a slower pass if you could and did run up to 7000 because there is less HP at 7000 than at 6400. This such a tired idea.

1ZZ-FE stroke is like 91mm. That was mentioned earlier, but I would consider that to be a big hindrance to raising the redline.

Trav

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well concidering 4th gear is entirely too long anyway i think it would be good to get a couple of extra revs in 3rd

this all sounds like so much work. how bout we just hit 80mph and hopefully the flux capacitor will do it's magic

That would be 88MPH...

&lt;-- Huge nerd

Bro the reason your getting flamed for your question is because it is a rediculous, pointless modification.

Answer this...what point does raising your redline serve? None.

FIRST OFF the redline (as previously said) is the max rpm the engine can withstand for a short..not long..short...period due to heat, lubrication, and what the internal componants can withstand.

If you don't have stronger valve springs then your valves will float and slam into your pistons. I've done head work on 2ZZ's for this very reason...well in addition to being overheated via no coolant. It was also over-revved and since it was hot the springs were even weaker (ever heard of lowering a car via heating the springs...same thing happens to valve springs) So head warped and valves SLAM..actually only very little contact...VERY LITTLE but there was 0.00 psi in cylinders 2 and 3...should have about 203 psi.

You could stretch the rods...piston hits valves...you could cause a lack of lubrication...the oil may not get everywhere...boom rod through the block...valve springs will weaken due to heat, and they can't decompress fast enough so again...piston hits valves.


If you haven't done something to the engine then it WILL NOT HANDLE this modification, you WILL damage your engine. Got that?

Second, max HP and torque are BELOW redline, you will not gain top speed OR power by increasing redline. You will just be spinning the engine faster...that's it.

Third your money is better spent on upgrading your fuel system, upgrading drive train (at least the clutch or flywheel), suspension. Many things that can actually increase the cars handling and performance. This modification is null and will not serve any purpose...you do see that right?


Now if you ARE building up the engine then say so...that way you will avoid getting flammed. If you haven't built the engine or don't plan on it then you deserve every flame you get. No one can or will assume you are going to build up the engine...why would they?

Hello everyone...!!! I´m from another part of the planet but I have a few comments I would like to make about this forum , living in South America makes it very difficult to get good parts at a good price so I´ve had to actually learn how to do things the homemade way , there´s alot of negative ppl in this forum who are so arrogant and so unsure of themselves that they need attention and so they act like idiots and think that they´re kool ...Not everyone knows alot about cars like some of you, but the best thing in life is to be able to give to someone what you already know or have already lived....
I have a 2004 Corolla vvti 1.8 std trany and I´m way past the frustrated stage of trying to make my car faster because you just can´t get anything for the corollas over here in Ecuador... Wheeee asked one simple question and got bullshit answers in return , and plz forgive my badwords , you deserve them ...lol... Anyways , Its true that you wont get more hp at that range, I´m gonna give you guys a secret that only cost me $12 bucks over here, but before I do , I want you guys to know that I race every Saturday for the past year and a half and just about hit the rev limiter almost evrytime trying to get more of my car and it runs as good as it did from the very start....All I have is an injen intake for a Honda civic (you can all laugh) I cut the bastard , made the base for the air sensor , rigged it on , and it works great, I have a short shifter which really helps alot, I dont have catbacks or downpipes or stuff like that , dont even have a catalytic converter , took all that off, I have a 2.5" nasty looking metal pipe going straight off the factory headers running all the way back into an arospeed muffler, an arospeed strut barand just this past weekend I put in a set of crower cams for those of you who dont know that they exist, I have them on in Ecuador and they´re working fine.....Going back to that $12 tip I was gonna give you guys, I found an electromechanic who put a 10k rheostat in series in the temperature sensor line (its a white wire) and Boyyyyyyyy does that work wheeeeee, here´s how it works , in the morning when you wake up you´ll notice your engine idles to about 1100 or 1200 rpms , thats because your car is cold and the ecu sends signals to the injectors to send more fuel until it warms up and the rpms go back to normal to about 700 or 800 rpms..
When I get to the starting line I turn the dial on my rheostat and my idle rpms go from 800 to 2200 rpms, you can play in all that range by simply turning the dial, man , I´ll tell you, you´ll haul ass buddy but you have to make sure you shut that off once you finish the 1/4 mile because remember, you´re fooling the ECU into thinking that your engine is cold so your fans wont turn on unless you bypass and connect them direct with an alternate switch. ...Another thing I did was I changed my tires to 205/50 where I grab more street on the thickness and I rev faster making me shift sooner than my opponent which means I dont have to redline my car anymore....It´s like if i had changed my gear box...and all i did was change my tire measurements...


I gotta run , but the whole meaning of this is to be a productive human being , not a jerk like some ppl , I took the time to read this whole forum and was disgusted to see how stupid ppl can be when soemone asks for help...


Take care

oh . by the way , my car hauls ass buddy.....


Jorge from Ecuador

I rather get more power in low end rpms...

Dyno your car and check out the power curve. If it comes down before redline then it wouldn't make sense to raise the revlimiter because you won't be making anymore power. If it continues to rise then maybe you should consider raising it. Also, if you feel like raising it because you hit rev limit too easily then do it. I would suggest a set of cams that will raise your power band a few hundred rpm's and go from there. You'll get more top end and torque. An MSD box is a great way to increase your rev limit, but 1) do they make one for the XRS 2) the cost 3) the xrs has direct ignition.

YEA!!! for bringing posts back from the the Dead