Engine hydrolock any idea on how much it would cost to fix

hydrolock any idea on how much it would cost to fix

my town got flooded and i drove threw about 2 feet of water until my car stalled out. i had at least a gallon of water sucked into my engine i paid a friend to fix it for me he charged me 300 dollars. what he did is he pulled off my intake at the throttle body, pulled the plugs and craked the motor to get most of the water out...then he sucked the rest of it out threw the throttle body with a shop vac...after 3-4 oil changes the car was running to almost normal condition...any ideas on how much this may have cost if this has happend to anyone? cause im thinking i got ripped off

it is not hard work but it will take time and effort. i don't think you got ripped since there is no standard price for fixing a hydrolocked engine, but you did pay a lot for a service that you could have done yourself.

yeah...a guy here in DC had a hydrolocked motor.

he wasted a bunch of money on fixing his motor, and it still didn't work.

$300??!! Your fine 'friend' just made about $200/hr on a simple job......
Could the engine still be cranked over after it stalled? How fast was it turning and how suddenly did it seize? If hydrolock did occur, you most likely bent 2 connecting rods and may also have warped or cracked the head...
A complete engine teardown and rebuild would be the fix $$$$.
http://www.generalautorecycling.com/ in Binghamton NY actually has a good 1ZZ-FE with 5000 miles on it for $700.00 (Stock #CH13, Description: RUNS LIKE NEW). See if they'll swap it for you.

You should have been paid no more than $60-$75. That's how much I paid to have a friend look into a similar problem that I had three years ago. Going into it he didn't guarantee it would fix the problem as it was more a diagnosis than anything else.

After everything was said and done we found out that I did bent a rod due to hydro-lock and I purchased a replacement motor because it was cheaper than having to do repair and replacement work on the existing.

$300 is a bit excessive in my opinion. Do you have full or comprehensive coverage on your insurance policy? If so you could have filed a claim and have the insurance company take care of it. You deductible may be a bit more ($250-$500) but the work done would have been warrantied.

oh well u got ripped off, u know not to go back there.. florida sucks that way.

and u still call him ur friend ?.

the engine could not be cranked after it stalled, the motor never really "Seized" it just would not start after water was in the motor...the motor runs now but there is a wrapping noize coming from the head, im thinking it may be a lifter or a cam that got messed up, whats your thought?

I think your engine is toast. It did hydrolock since it couldn't be cranked. Also, the sudden cooling effect probably cracked the head around the valve seats, and messed up your valve train. A compression test would confirm the damage and if rods are bent, and by verifying piston to head clearance at TDC... You would need to remove and probably replace the entire head assembly, drop the oil pan, unbolt your connecting rods and push your pistons out the top, then replace the bent rods and inspect pistons...

Hmm..You guys know when Hurricane Francis went through? Well, I hydrolocked my number one and two pistons trying to get to a parking spot at my school. The water literally went splashing on my hood and i got through it and my engine stalled and wouldn't start. I had to get around one and a half g's worth of work done on it. What you have is hydrolocked piston rods. That was around 800 dollars worth of work. Then my whole evap system was screwed up. I had to get the vsv and charcoal canister replaced. My car runs fine now, but I know what you went through. Have a trusted mechanic take a look at your piston rods and im sure they are bent and hopefully they didn't do too much damage to your walls if they did you wont have a good seal and no compression at all which pretty much means a motor rebuild or brand new engine. Ohh yeah, dont take your car to Toyota for the evap stuff they screw it all up, if you have the same codes that i got. P0446 and P0441. that pretty much means the charcoal canister needs to be replaced. Mine was completly full of water and rusted. The hydrolocking wasn't because of a emence cooling effect. It was due to the non ability of water to compress, and a piston trying to compress a cylinder full of water to the size of nothing. Something has to give in that situation. THe same principles as hydrolics.

Water in the combustion chamber causes hydrolock, leading to bent rods. (hydraulics) The water's sudden cooling effect can crack and/or warp the head.

wow...that sucks

not only did i pay 300 for a job that should have cost me 30 bucks....it was all in vain cause im going to need a new motor anyway....

live and learn.


what happened to the other car? wasn't it an audi?

still fixing it up all i need left is to get it painted...i think im going sell it when im done...7500? sound like a good price

yowza

why not keep it?!?

hydrolocked my orig, engine driving through a 8" deep puddle- broke a rod, it cracked open a hole right above my oil pan, piston #3. Replaced the engine w/ a junkyard engine w/ 10K miles on it, and been good for 20K miles now. Did the work with 2 friends help in my garage. Cost of the engine? $400.

So if you paid 300 to pump water out of your car, you should go run over the bastard before your engine blows up. Sell the car. Hint: pull your Vehicle Speed Sensor so you dont show mileage. I never said that.

BTW, if you tried to crank it while there was water in it, its gonna warp something; a rod, valve, camshaft, water is not compressable. Seeing as the engine runs, you ought to run it to the nearest dealership and trade that puppy in...

yeah good call, i was thinking of doing that...selling the corolla for about 8? and the audi for 7500, and getting like a used lexus gs430, or something around those lines...as soon as i drop the rear on my corolla i will take pictures of both cars

heh - might not be the best time to ask this, but what n2o kit are you selling for $250?

if you sell the corolla return it to stock to get the most money for it.

i was for awhile..hehehe i tried selling things off on this forum before it crashed lol...i had my nitrous kit sold for about 250 and now the kid left the forum forever
so i just basically gave up and left everything else back on my car....when i get the results back from the dealership today, and if they are not good they i will prolly decide to start parting out

Was it a TRD CAI?

i am selling my venom recluse 500 nitrous kit comes with everything needed including 35,55,65 shot nozzles...comes with ecu that was mapped specifically for the 1zz-fe

also i got a call from the insurance company today...and i guess because it was my CAI that sucked up the water...idk if they will cover me...please someone comfort me...tell me everything is going to be ok

yes it was the TRD intake and it has the warrenty aplied to it...bought it from the factory, i was kicking myself for paying all the extra money instead of getting it off line but now i am greatful

I imagine you have a better shot at the warranty..but I'm pretty sure they'll only cover defects, of which there was none..

Jeez, I know a guy in the bay area who is selling his 1000 miles 1ZZFE + Manual Tranny for 600. Double the price you paid and you could have had a new engine. RIPPPP.

Responded to your PM + email. CHECK CHECK IT.

i didnt buy a motor yet!!!! 600 is a fucking steal, could you send me some more info on that, plus shipping cost A+++ pm sent

i know this thread is old but i have a new problem... similar thing happened to my 2000 but i could only find a 98-99 non vvti engine for $450... so i was wondering, would this replacement engine be a direct drop into my car???

Depends on what you plan on dropping in - just the block, or the whole engine. If just the block - you are OK. Whole engine, is another matter.

Having a VVTi and dropping in just a non-VVTi engine will cause some headaches. ECMs are different, wiring harness is different, emissions standpoint (depending on your state, local) could be a no-go - meaning an illegal swap.

Would be nice to have the whole donor car there - to strip wiring, connectors, bolts, brackets, etc. as needed for the swap. If you have just the engine - you will have to source wiring and connectors elsewhere. Given the time and effor to make a non-VVTi engine work in your car - you could have spent the extra money and get an engine that would be, more or less, a direct swap.