Engine 1ZZ-FE breathing....

If it shows significant power gain I'd consider getting it done.

Keep up the good work man!

Apart from the noise, it will FLOW a lot more air to the intake valves then our super restrictive 2 ft long intake manifold does. This will not make it go faster by any means, it just unleash the potential to go crazy with the fuel map and get a nice set of cams, 270 duration 10mm lift, THAT, is what will get the car going. And don't forget, you'll have the kind of throttle response only matched by a good set of twin sidedraft.

Think about it a minute, we are making 125 hp outta the same engine long block that the celica GT has under the hoop. The only difference between our 125 and their 140 is the intake manifold (which is less restrictive and has shorter runners) and the fuel map (taking advantage of the manifold). That's why our rollas are making peek hp at 5600 rpm and the celica is making peek hp at 6400 ish... (not too sure about it but it's still higher than 6000). Our manifold can't flow higher then 5600 and for those who didn't know, hp is a mesure of torque x the speed. in other words, take the btq of and engine, multiply it by its rpm at which it is mking those numbers and divid it by 5425. As with the rolla, (121 X 5600)/5425 = 125. Now if you would allow the engine to make that kinda torque at 7000 rpm (by removing the restriction in air flow) and mapping the rest to fit. You are looking at 156 hp. You didn't have to change the CR, nor get F/I or ruin your engine, you are running it at red line speed for an MR-S, which as the same engine (internaly and externally as ours, same piston, same rods, same crank, same cams, same valves, etc) so don't tell me it can't take that sort of "abuse". If toyota allowed it in stock form, it can probably take even more.

So as far as MY setup goes, ITBs for an intake, a good aftermarket fuel map, and a nice set of cams along with upgraded valves spring and retainers. All this in order to keep the cylinder head as reliable as it is (or close) and use all the air this engine can breath in, and believe me i can breath a lot.

So next time someone has a smart comment, read on the rest of the thread and go learn something.

And I will be more than pleased to share this setup with all of you guys, if everything turns out for the best.

Tom

dont be offended by jcrwzr's comment. it was a running joke from a different thread under the show your rides section with a thread titled "my car"

awesome work as always tommyboy. maybe one day we'll have ITBs.

Nice thread TommyBoy. Keep us posted.

Didn't EL Prototype come out with ITBs for our 1zz?

ELP did make a custom set with a ITB collector so the ITBs themselves weren't exposed.

where? i never saw an 8th with it yet

They made a set for the 9th gen but its still the 1ZZFE.

Yep I saw that one but the thing here is that the 8th gen is really limited in term of space between the head and the rad (about 9 to 10 inchs), and you gotta clear the upper radiator hose (maybe with the use of a 90 degres ABS adaptor or some thing just to get the hose outta cylinder #4 intake port.

With the 9th gen you have a lot more place to fit a plenum and still use a MAF monitoring but you gotta keep in mind that with the stock MAF you gotta retain the 3 inchs tube diameter, which is counter-productive because the surface area of the 4 TB put togheter is over 4 inch. This is why I chose to convert to MAP and run velo stacks, even if it's WAY more complicated that way.

And sorry jcrwzr for my response their, I wasn't award of that running joke, No offence man

And by the way if everything goes as planned, I will have the ITBs, adaptor plate and all the plumbing (IAC, MAP and VP) by the end of septembre. All their will be left to do is get a new head, port it and get the cams done (probably getting done during the winter) and getting the ECU tunned. The ECU will be the most complicated thing to build, I am not already to sure how I will do it (if I will keep the stock ECM, and if yes, what will it still control. Or if I go all the way and get the megasquirt to run standalone). The later would be the most efficient way to go but the stupid stock ECM controls to much on the car and it is very difficult to go around some of those things, plus megasquirt doesn't support sequential ignition so I would have to retrofit a waste spark system from a non vvti 1zz-fe.

Their is so much variable I gotta consider

I'll keep you guys informed and post a picture of the sexy ITB intake as soon as it is done, even if it may take some times to have everything running on the car.

Tom

I would gladly do ITBs, cams, and remapping too but I'm afraid I won't even be close to passing the visual exam for smog. With 4 velocity stacks sitting right in front, the guy will tell me to get lost. I don't know the exact guidelines for modifications for smog when it comes to intakes.

ah good thing i dont have to do those...i think...

I could just say "what the hell is a smog test???"
I never had and never will have to pass those. God bless Canada lol

Anyways the more I think about it the more I'm leanning toward the full stand alone ECU, I just have to figure out a lot of parameters, for the cruise control, VSV, A/C and some other things attached to the stock ECU, as well as parameters for VVT-i operation, but that might come last, while tunning it on the dyno. I'll just tune it the good old fashion way, one run with it on and the other off and merge the 2 to get the most outta it, more like VVT then VVT-i but hey I don't think it'll be a lot different.

Anyways I'll keep you guys inform, gotta go feed the little guy now

Tom

man i should drive over to montreal sometime and we can talk about our corolla's all day lol

wouldn't itb make your engine loud? i've been checking some vids on youtube of ITBs and that's loud. or is that the exhaust?

I really want to move to Canada. Not just for lax emissions, but for other reasons as well. LOL The health care system, education system, government, national debt is all shit and getting worse as we speak.

ITBs would make the car louder but not obnoxiously loud. I would think the only time it would be screaming would be at high RPMs. Cruising and everyday driving would be pretty quiet.

Yeah, It is a little louder (like a SRI is louder then stock air box) but it is INTAKE sound. Not that stupid ricer exhaust sound every damn kid in town has on their shit ass civics. I will never get notice or annoye the neighbours with an ITB intake sound, the difference being that you hear the engine sucking BEFORE the mixture exploses and not the other way around.

Anyways, I will most probably build my own Stand alone nodule with the help of megasquirt, that will control Mixture, IAC, VVTi and spark, the later will be control via a retrofitted ford EDIS system, that uses the same input signal from our crankshaft position sensors to fire a wasted spark system (retrofitted from a non VVT-i 1zz-fe). I will also have to control radiator fan, vapor switch valve (for the evap), Cruise control module, fuel pump and some other things.

All that will take a little more time then I was planning but it will be more efficent in the long run and anyways, I still have to make the hardware for the ITBs, which will be ready pretty soon, before the end of September (if everything goes as planned).

Tom

Yea I put money in to my corolla then I reallized It was a lost cause so I bought An 2006 evo now thats a fun car to drive

woo...... okay?

I'm offended. Here's a speed chip!

he obviously doesnt know about our 60hp speed chips. it is our secret weapon after all.

You can beat an Evo with the 60 hp speed chip. Its that effective.

Would it be easier to tune the ecu from the non-vvti corolla since you said "plus megasquirt doesn't support sequential ignition so I would have to retrofit a waste spark system from a non vvti 1zz-fe." ??

Hell, I haven't looked at it that way....

If I use it that way, I will have to configure megasquirt as a piggyback to change the fuel mapping and control the VVTI valve (which I still wanna use).

The only trouble I can think of.... is the rev limiter a fuel cut off only or fuel and spark cut on the non-vvti rolla?? I will have to rev higher then 6000 rpm with those cams and since the non-vvti ECU will control the spark, it might become a small problem. Using a couple or resistors between the Crank position sensor and the ECU might solve that problem but I will have to dig a little deeper.

Thx a lot dude, I was looking so far ahead that I didn't see that option as a possible one. It might be a little easier and I will keep the OBD-II which is a saver on a daily driver.

I will work this out and keep you guys inform and post some pictures of the ITBS as soon as I get them.

Tom

Alright,
the timing was posted here,
Intake cam will be 270 duration and 10mm lift, centered 108 ATDC (after top deck center).
Exhaust cam will be exactly the same as the intake, but centered 110 BTDC (before top deck center)

For the airflow numbers (I really have no idea yet since the head wasn't tested on the flow bench and the ITBs are not yet made, I guesstimate and hope (but I might be way off), I will achieve 90 to 100 CFM, with the ITBs and head a little ported.

Run this trought your sim and give us the result, I can't wait...

...and the little guy neither, I still haven't fed him, darn I look little a really bad parent now but he fell asleep while I was checking my numbers. Now, he is really up and waiting for me. Off I go!

Tom

Fairly interesting little thread...

I got a dyno simulator if you guys need numbers...

already configured it to behave like a 1zz-fe

in other words, it's putting out 125hp @ 6000rpm
which is fairly close and...
125 lbft of torque @ 4500rpm which I think it's a little lower than the 130 it's advertised as, but it's fairly close...

sum up the airflow and exhaust/intake timmings and I'll see what numbers will pop up

This is turning out to be very interesting... How would increasing displacement effect the setup?

It's a little late now to throw numbers at you (I have them somewhere, except for airflow numbers, since the intake is not yet build) i'll post them tomorrow if I have a sec or maybe wednesday but thx in advance, it might help a lot.

As far as the displacement, I think a big bore would really help in air flow number, it help unshroud the valves and give a less turbulent airflow down the bore. The only downside is on the combustion chamber side, which will need some work to give maximum output and to prevent pre-ignition and hot spot, due to the change in bore size.

This, matched with a higher CR, like 11:1, to stay in the safe value and save those tiny little rods (It would be a GREAT idea to upgrade those anyway, while you are playing in the block), could give something like 10% to 15% more btq numbers, but it is only an estimate and I have no hard data to confirm this.

Now I can't wait to know how my setup will turn out in order to compare it to those other things available, with an estimate cost of 1000-1500$ for it, we will see if it is cost effective or if F/I is really the only way to go with the izzy.
If I can achieve 130ft/lbs@7000 compare to 121ft/lbs@6000 for the corolla or 119ft/lbs@6400 for the celica gt, we are looking at close to 160bhp with just head and fuel map mod, or 35hp out off a grand worth of mod. That is what I'm aiming for and with that kinda power, I might throw the 2000-3000$ worth to build the block with big bore (82mm) and higher CR, like we were talking, because 15% more power over the 160hp give us 184hp, or over 100hp per liter.

Let me go check if I can find those numbers now, the are probably hiding in a pile of paper somewhere in or on my office desk. I'll post them later... and darn the little guy is waking up, time for daddy to go feed the "beast"...

Tom

ah...lets see what numbers you come up with... can't afford to spend money on high compression and then low compression turbo pistons