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Engine transmission swap

Discussion in 'Powertrain' started by zeroexp02, Jan 31, 2005.

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    WandrerX New Member

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    zeroexp02 Banned

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    Vortex,

    which part are you refering to when you say I need the transmission bracket cause when I look on 1sttoyotaparts.com it doesnt specify which is on the driver side. Cant you tell which number I need. ( when you look at diagram it gives you number for which part ). Thanks

    All I need is flywheel and clutch kit and I am done
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    I believe the "mounts" are actually refering to the rubber portions of the mount that bolt to the chassis not the transmission. I don't see the part number for it readily. It's an actual bracket which bolts to the transmission - that in turn bolts to the mount.
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    Hey vortex are you still planning on releasing that detailed writeup you promised us on the old vvti last year?
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    its like 90% done... someone mail me at work tomorrow tsarbin@fastdatatech.com and say ' hey bitch, finish the write up of the manny swap ' LOL --- that'll kick me into gear
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    zeroexp02 Banned

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    will do, drilled our the holes for master cylinder next is for the clutch pedal assy. thanks again for all the help people.
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    lol, great to hear vortex.. I'm glad you didn't forget about us, if it was up for me i'd say take your time :D
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    rolla02 Corollalcholic

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    Where is the writeup Vortex. And someone please sticky this or Vortex's DIY on it please
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    Ok here's some of the writeup:

    Process for Manual Transmission SWAP

    1) Remove center console - this will also have you remove the lower dash panels on the drivers side (knee bolster) and passengers side (glove box)

    2) Remove the metal guard on the drivers side (located behind the knee bolster)

    3) Remove the air duct that runs behind the knee bolster.

    4) Remove all pre-punched cutouts in the insulation (there should be 2 - one where the clutch pedal mounts, one higher up under the dash (you can use the clutch pedal assembly to figure out where these are))

    5) Using the clutch pedal assembly as a pattern - cut out the three holes necessary for the master cylinder bolts and plunger to clear the firewall. You can do this with a unibit and a hole cutter - you will want to use the smallest drill you can find to get it under the dash. This is one of the hardest steps in the entire process.

    6) Once the holes are cut, loosen the nuts on the brake pedal assembly and remove it. You can now move the master cylinder for the brake system around to fit the master cylinder for the clutch system into place. Also this paves the way for you to replace the brake pedal.

    7) Once the master cylinder is in place, you can bolt the clutch assembly into the car. At this time, also bolt the brake pedal assembly in (5spd version) and continue to use the same brake switch from the automatic in the 5spd version. This will be important. :)

    ---

    I recommend doing steps 1-7 and COMPLETING them prior to anything. This took me 2 hours - however I have experience in cutting in cramped places - it may take you a whole day, it may not. However - at any rate, you can still drive your car at this point. :)

    ---

    8) With the pedals installed you can now down your car for the next 2 days. LOL (jk it may only take a day for this if you plan it out right)

    9) Remove the Automatic Shifter Assembly and ECU.

    10) Follow the shift cable's path and locate the grommet's which hold it in place. There are 2 bolts on the interior grommet. Once this is removed - it's time to go under the hood.

    ---

    Now here's the huge debate... Honestly - the easiest way to swap the trans it to pull the motor. Now before you go ' omg! ' there is something that you must remember.

    a) 3 of the 4 motor mounts are bolted to the transmission - only 1 is bolted to the engine.

    b) most of the wiring harnesses you'll have to disconnect to move enough stuff out of the way to support the motor anyway, so that argument against removal of the engine is moot.

    c) with the harness issue out of the way, you have an A/C line, power steering line, a few misc coolant hoses, 1 bolt and the engine is free. the transmission stuff was an obvious ' have-to ' :)

    d) this guide does not contain information on removal of the motor/trans - but there are some things to keep in mind. :) There are 4 mounts, 2 axles, quite a few wiring harness clips, hoses, etc.. etc.. just take your time and you'll be able to pull it.

    Once again, I highly recommend the removal of the entire engine/transmission assembly for this portion. If I had done this - I would have saved at LEAST 5-6 hours. The rear motor mount HATES life when the motor is still in place, so its your call. The rest of this will assume you did remove it all.

    For the record - my record time on a full motor swap on a 1ZZ-FE is 4 hours - removal, transmission move, replacement, cranked. Total time it took us to cram the friggin transmission into the engine bay with the motor still there attached to its one mount and supported - 8 hours. :)

    ---

    11) Remove Transmission (and hopefully it was attached to the motor)

    12) Remove exterior shift cable grommet, remove shift cable. (which should have been disconnected from the trans when you pulled it, lol)

    13) run the shift and select cables for the manual transmission - ensure that you have placement correct and the grommets all bolt into place without a bunch of tension on the cables (ie its not pressed up against the steering rack or anything)

    14) Once the shift cables are in place and the exterior grommet is bolted up - bolt up the inside grommet. Once this is comlete, bolt the shifter assembly in. I recommend at this time you may want to upgrade the shifter to the short shifter. :) -- Once the shifter is in place, you may plug up the ECU and mount it.

    15) Swap the transmission on the block. Make sure you torque the flex plate and clutch correctly and everything mates up. Once this is complete, you're almost set. Also make sure you bolted the transmission brackets (which matches to the rubber motor/trans mounts) in place. :) - remember you can use the front and rear from the automatic but the top-drivers-side must be the correct one you get from Toyota.

    16) Make sure the master cylinder hydraulic line is mounted up to the master cylinder and to the chassis. There is a small clip on the line which matches up to a hole on the chassis where you can bolt it. Make sure the slave cylinder line is bolted to the transmission correctly. If these two are correct, the rubber line will go right in smoothly.

    17) Drop the engine back in and bolt everything up. (4 bolts for the mounts first people, hehe) Once the engine/trans is secured, hook up the shifter cables, lower wiring harnesses, hoses, upper wiring harnesses. (in that order)

    18) You're done. Exception the tiny detail of now your car won't crank... :) I'll post up the stuff later and if someone happends to do this swap before I do, PM me and let me know so I can give you the info on the wiring. NO WIRING IN THE CAR IS TO BE TAMPERED WITH! THE ONLY WIRING YOU NEED TO MODIFY IS ON THE HARNESS THAT WAS ATTACHED TO THE AUTO TRANS!

    I'll leave it at that for now. :) I'll log back in here and there and make changes to the instructions adding more detail. But if you can think outside the box a little - this will give you enough info to do it. Also, if there is something you guys have specific questions on, let me know - i'll come back and edit those particular sections. This is the best I could squeeze out in about 20-30 minutes today. But at least its enough to get started and see what you're getting into.
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    Excellent writeup, read it twice.. I'm goina start putting in the good pedals as soon as I find some doners.

    just so i'm perfectly clear a few questions:
    1) -Step 11- Is this step assuming that we have the engine and tranny completely pulled and sitting on the shop's floor (or in my case the lawn)?
    2) Would A manual tranny ECU be 100% necessary? I'm pretty sure i've heard of swaps done (on other cars) where they kept the auto tranny ECU and it worked just fine.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    1) Correct

    2) YES It's 100% necessary. I tried with the auto - and omg can we say CEL city!? lol I have another M/T ECU in my garage... if you have no luck finding one. :)
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    hey travis do you still have that m/t ecu and how much would you be willing to sell it for?
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    I have currently 123k miles on the car right now... would you think that would be too many miles to not consider doing the swap?
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    I did my swap @ 108K - no issues there - yes I do have a M/T ECU available, PM me.
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    zeroexp02 Banned

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    hey vortex what did you do for all the sensors? The ones for the tranny and the ones for the clutch pedal?
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    how much you willing to sell it for. no more than $250 cause thats the quote I got from lkq.com. The reason why I was asking is cause I dont know how long the car itself is gonna last (the frame and so forth) even though it is a toyota lol. I need to replace the tranny though cause Im getting into auto tranny problems specifically with the tc it seems like and besides that it would be a fun project. I just need to get a clutch pedal and brake pedal assembly then I will be set. I know where to obtain the rest of the components. Thanks.
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    oh hey one more thing. would it be possible to take a picture of underneath the dash by the clutch pedal and brake pedal to show how its wired and setup and so forth. Just curious anyway.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    yeah I can take a pic - but the wiring stays the same when you do a swap. you don't hook up the clutch-start switch. you --- could --- but its a SERIOUS pain in the ass. :)
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    would you be able (if possible) send one to my email. Just if you have time if not then no biggie. Oh would you be able to take a pic of what under the hood looks like so I know how to route all the cable and hoses and whatnot. Thanks.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    I'll see what I can do - hard to take those pics under the hood with my turbo piping in the way. :) did you get my PM about the ECU?
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    nope.... im at school right now so theres no way to get to the aim program... ill check it when i get home though.... thanks. another question i have... you said that I will still use the same drive axles right? And do they just slide right out and slide back in? Do I have to use a new snap ring and axle nut on the axles b/c thats what alldata.com says to do... just checking.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    I never replaced em and never had a problem. I PM'd ya on here man. :)
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    i guess what happened is that someone else was using my computer at the time and probably closed out the aim message window..... damn I want to do this swap so bad... either that or find a used 01 or 02 5-speed which is really really hard to find around here believe me
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    98tealrolla New Member

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    are you gonna be online say from 1:00-2:00 pm? then i can chat then and ask a few ques. I think I have everything down I just have a few things I need to get clear first.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    yeah ill be online.
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    zeroexp02 Banned

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    Vortex what did you do wiring wise for the clutch pedal and tranny?
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    Shifty SIdeways Noob

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    I'm looking for the tranny itself right now and wanted to ask a question, are the 98-02 trannies the same as the 03+?
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    Dr Tweak Mad Scientist

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    A little input from the Doc:

    There is a way to keep your auto ECU and keep the ECU happy, but it involves wiring in some resistors. I've seen it done on other Toyotas before, I still have to try it myself. I'll try this at some point in the future and let you all know.
    -----------

    Now, the only wiring that needs to be done is what's called the park/neutral position switch, or the clutch start switch. I think what vortex is going to say is to clip two wires on the plug for the auto tranny and wire them directly together. These two wires are:

    4-speed: Plug A pin 5 (black and white), and plug A pin 6 (black)
    3-speed: Plug B pin 2 (black and white), and plug B pin 3 (black)

    That will make your car so that it will start all the time, regardless of whether or not the clutch is in.

    Now, if that concerns you, here's what you do:

    First, when you get the clutch pedal assembly, keep the connector that goes to the button that is pressed when the clutch is all the way down. Cut it with some room to spare. Now when you install the clutch pedal into the car, extend these wires over to where the ECU is. You can run the wires up into the dash and over.

    Now you need to find the wire on the ECU which is named "STA". (It will not be labelled, but it is on the third connector, pin 11.) It is a black and white wire, and goes down into the wiring harness. Cut that wire with some room to spare and hook it up to one of the wires that you ran from the clutch start switch (the switch on the clutch pedal). It doesn't matter which one.

    Now look near the ECU, and you will see a black connector. This is the J9/J10 connector. Now go to the ECU and trace the "NSW" wire, which is also black and white, from the ECU on the first plug, #1 pin, and you'll find the right connector. Take the other wire from the clutch start switch, and SPLICE it into this NSW wire.

    Now you should be all set, the engine will only crank with the clutch pressed to the floor. :)

    Like I said, I wrote this all by memory and by checking the diagrams, so if it's not working for you, just email me and I'll help you out.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    hehe why worry about wiring in resistors? ;) hehe i *know* it works, but... why? :)

    it's easier just to plug in the ECU. :)
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    Dr Tweak Mad Scientist

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    $$$ ?

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