Engine What to do with $150?

What to do with $150?

I have $150 to blow on car stuff. So, obviously, it isn't going to be anything HUGE, but what would your suggestions be?

Soundwise, I'd upgrade my existing Jensen amp to an Infinity 7520A for my Infinity 300RMS/1200MAX sub.

Performance-wise...give me some suggestions. I have a Magnaflow SS muffler and I refuse to install an intake ever again.

No suspension upgrades (really considering this one). Suggestions welcome.

Trav

someone has to:

"send it to me"

150? how bout a TWM shifter and a case of beer? (or is yours an automatic?)

How about an ASP 15% underdrive aluminum crank pulley for $120 and a new belt? It really helped overall feel, response, torque, with easier shifts due to revs dropping more readily, as well as better gas mileage and a seamingly smoother running engine...
http://www.aspracing.com/frame.htm

Can you give me a very short summary of how that works?

For $120, it would seem like a no-brainer. What are the drawbacks?

Thanks!
G

I was looking on the ASP website and the only pullies i saw were ones for 98-01 rollas....will these fit out cars

Notice it's the same part # for 2000-2002 Celicas with 1ZZ-FE engines. Since those model Celicas all had VVT-i mechanism, that means that the pulley will indeed work. Besides, someone on this forum has already installed the ASP pulley anyway.

Yeah, I have ASP's #331130 pulley on my 2004 Corolla... Use # 060735 with A/C, or # 060594 witout A/C.

1) Website says there's an 8hp gain....true or not?

2) I know it's been discussed before, but are we all SURE that it won't affect the crankshaft balance? The crank pulley is NOT a harmonic balancer and the crankshaft is internally balanced? Just makes me a little leery is all.

3) Advanced Auto had the K060735 belt listed on their website, is this the same thing?

4) Anything else at all I need to know about this because I'm going to order it depending on what you guys say (dominator???)

Thanks,
Trav

x2!

1) Probably...It sure does feels like it.
2)The crank pulley does have an elastomer vibration damper meant to absorb crankshaft twisting inertia. This type of damper is not ideal for all operating conditions, especially on modded engines... UR's FAQ answers many critical ?'s; http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq_pulleys.html
3) Yes
4) No

Hey dominator, did you install your pulley yourself? I was looking at the 03 Corolla service manual and it shows an SST tool to hold the pulley in place while you loosen the nut. Does the pulley turn with the nut? Is that why the tool is used to hold it?

Second question is regarding installation. The service manual says something about lining up the notch on the pulley with the "thingie" (wow... what a technical term on my part LOL). Just wondering if the ASP pulley had the same notch or if it doesn't even matter what orientation I put it on.

I already ordered my UR pulley and it's arriving next week Wednesday. I want to get it on ASAP because my club is having a dyno day at Modacar in Livermore. I've dynoed there in the past, and so far, the only mods I've made since the last dyno have been a HyperVoltage system (doubt it'll really add much), Optima Red Top battery, 150-amp high output alternator (those probably don't add anything either) and now the UR crank pulley (my alternator mfr. said it wouldn't be a good idea to underdrive their alt.). So this will provide a good estimate as to how much the crank pulley alone adds in terms of HP (I dynoed 127whp on a DynoJet unit, with just intake/exhaust and grounding wires). I don't feel like setting up an appt. and paying $120 for installation of the pulley if I can do it myself.

Your feedback and install directions are desperately needed!

Did you gain 127hp off just the intake and grounding wires...if so wear the hell to i get these wires at

Check the post again. I have a custom 2.25" (resonator-to-axle) / 2.5" (axle-to-tip) exhaust with an HKS Carbon-Ti (turbo) muffler. That was good for an extra 9whp on top of the 118 with intake only.

The ground upgrade may also have affected the dyno result, and it will help compensate for less alternator RPM's.
The SST tool is used to prevent the crankshaft (+pulley) from turning over while loosening or tightening and torquing pulley bolt. You can also stick a piece of rope in spark plug opening to bottom out the piston before TDC...
The bolt is easily removed with an air impact wrench. You will need a 3-bolt puller to remove stock pulley. There is also a slot for the keyway in the UDP. I simply used the same air pressure to retighten the pulley bolt. Use anti-seize compound on the bolt's threads and under head, and on the pulley to crank contact area. Make sure pulley tightens in all the way.
By the way, aluminum is much better than steel at absorbing vibrations, and the lighter pulley actually adds less weight at the extremity of the crankshaft, reducing the need to absorb twisting stress caused by inertia. The engine now feels much less burdened compared to the clumsy stock pulley. It's now more responsive, smoother and quieter.

Damn. don't have the tools I need to do this. Oh well... looks like shop time for me.