1. Welcome to TRD Forums! A community for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion Enthusiasts. To enjoy all the benefits of the site, we invite you to signup.

Engine water pump is dead

Discussion in 'Powertrain' started by 1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007.

  1. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    water pump is dead

    yup, a whole 60K miles before the bearing is squealing horribly and loosing fluids.

    However, the replacement job seems very simple. just pull the belt, a few screws.. and the impeller shaft & bearing slide right out. The water pipe isn't part of the same assembly like on older toyotas! :p
    1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007
    #1
  2. Offline

    fishexpo101 Get Some

    Message Count:
    1,087
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    488
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    Yup - this generation of Corolla - much easier than the previous ones. Did you tear the old one apart to see what was messed up? Just curious - as mine has ~137K on the orginal one (usually replace them every 60K-100K for prevatative maintenace).
    fishexpo101, Sep 4, 2007
    #2
  3. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    Haven't even taken it off yet. I already know the problem is bearing failure. It either ran out of lubrication or just wore out.
    1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007
    #3
  4. Offline

    dward3 Well-Known Member

    Message Count:
    496
    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    568
    Location:
    Phoenix
    I think my water pump squeaks a little too. just a small squeak. I never had it replaced yet.
    dward3, Sep 4, 2007
    #4
  5. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    probably okay still. mine is actually loosing fluid and you can hear it 2 blocks away it is soo loud.
    1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007
    #5
  6. Offline

    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

    Message Count:
    4,851
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    588
    Location:
    群馬 日本
    Wow it's supposed to last longer than 60. But 60k is the recommended replacement interval.
    JspeXAE102, Sep 4, 2007
    #6
  7. Offline

    fishexpo101 Get Some

    Message Count:
    1,087
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    488
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    That's why I'm thinking about replacing mine - at more than double the recommended interval - I'm probably on borrowed time. But I'm also pretty consistent with the coolant replacement - drain and replace coolant with only Toyota Red and distilled water every 30K miles.
    fishexpo101, Sep 4, 2007
    #7
  8. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    what can I say.. made in usa.
    1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007
    #8
  9. Offline

    SaberJ2X Lurk MOAR

    Message Count:
    1,713
    Likes Received:
    7
    Trophy Points:
    398
    Location:
    Mayawest, PR
    just above 101K and mine is perfect still
    SaberJ2X, Sep 4, 2007
    #9
  10. Offline

    Vibe New Member

    Message Count:
    2,436
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Queens, NY
    @ 95k still okay..how much is a new water pump
    Vibe, Sep 4, 2007
    #10
  11. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    1sttoyotaparts in renton supposedly has one for $50 new. But, I have a feeling they'll cancel my order and want the full dealership price of $114.88.. we'll see if they turn out to be bait-n-switchers or not.
    1337Rolla, Sep 4, 2007
    #11
  12. Offline

    plu Well-Known Member

    Message Count:
    665
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    568
    Location:
    SC
    try advance auto parts or autozone for the OEM equal parts, they are usually cheaper
    plu, Sep 4, 2007
    #12
  13. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    got the oem one for $50!! anyway, installed the new one today and did a coolant flush at the same time.

    First, the coolant...
    For some reason the previous owner of my car refilled it with the cheapest green stuff he could find instead of buying the toyota long life stuff, so as a result it was a mix of red and green coolant and didn't look that great together. I replaced it with 65% mixture Prestone DexCool extended life 5 year / 150K (orange colored).

    Second, the pump...
    When I pulled the old pump I found a bunch of white crystalline deposits all over the thing and around the bearing. I'm guessing the coolant was bad or this is some sort of aluminum reaction byproduct caused by having charged coolant. So the cause of death is gummed up bearing full of unknown white crystalline substance (lots of it).

    The install...
    The install wasn't too bad. However, I found out that my original water pump was a Type I whereas the new models they sell are a Type II. Body wise they look about the same except the I has ridges for the 2 A bolts and the Type II does not. The Type II also has the pulley wheel spaced further from the body of the pump. They stuck on an extra wide pulley to make the part still work with older corollas (aka 8th gen). Those ridges in the frame affect the length of bolts you can use. As a result, going from a Type I to a Type II involved buying 2 of the shorter 'A' bolts. The Toyota part # on these is 91511-G0622. Other than that it went like clockwork, very simple install.

    Hopefully I can trace down the cause of the white crystal stuff.
    1337Rolla, Sep 7, 2007
    #13
  14. Offline

    fishexpo101 Get Some

    Message Count:
    1,087
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    488
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    Great info there - especially between the two types of water pumps and part numbers - should save other lots of time. The white deposits are probably from the additive package from the old coolant and/or chemicals leached from the radiator itself (aluminum oxide is white - probably eaten a little bit of the metal in the radiator). OEM Red coolant has organic acid corrosion inhibitor package and is borate and silicate free. You can the Prestone stuff that is the same way - just a little different additive package and different color. Should be OK to use, just make sure that completely flushed the old stuff out. I'd be worry about deposits inside the water jacket - a chemical flush may help, but might also do more damage than good.
    fishexpo101, Sep 7, 2007
    #14
  15. Offline

    1337Rolla oh my

    Administrator
    Message Count:
    3,979
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    748
    yeah I got the prestone dexcool stuff because they say it is specially made for aluminum radiators & blocks. :D

    I'll probably flush it again with more than just water when I hit 100K, hopefully just having high grade coolant should fix things until then.
    1337Rolla, Sep 7, 2007
    #15
  16. Offline

    Vibe New Member

    Message Count:
    2,436
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Queens, NY
    i did the part # search and it came up with ignition coil :(

    i need a water pump too for when i replace my serp belt
    Vibe, Sep 8, 2007
    #16

Share This Page