Engine Trd Supercharger Pulley

tyler has a 2.2 and to answer your question - none. check out the threads on mo.com

Trd Supercharger Pulley

Has anyone changed the TRD supercharger pulley smalller than 2.3 diameter? If you where did you get it from and what psi and horsepower can I expect.

well...... maybe you should read how superchargers work..... i'm guessing you're talking inches above.... 1/10" is not going to produce any difference...... say, on a 4agze, the pulley differences are like 1/2"-1 1/2"...... you can make a stock US gze go from 7psi to 14psi just by swapping the pulley..... that is how it works

some SC's must be electronically modified as well, as they have internal wastegates to limit boost..

you may want to verify this, but i'd imagine the eaton SC is the same.

if you get a dramatically larger crank pulley or smaller s/c pulley then it will make a difference

its been proven that the smaller pulleys are not putting more power to the ground for the TRD 1.8L superchargers. It is almost definately not worth the added wear and tear the smaller pulley induces. Virtually everyone who had a smaller pulley, save tyler, has taken it off due to lack of added gain or problems with the pulley itself.

I have one of these paperweight in my room unfortunately. Created a terrible vibration/groaning. The OEM SC pulley looks like it maximizes the efficiency of the blower.

i agree w. the wastegate thing...im not postive on this one tho: are u gettin any more fuel in there with that extra air?

more boost does not always = more power

a handful of people on MO, myself and even tyler included, have tested smaller pulleys without any positive results. There are very very marginal to no gains to be had with the TRD Supercharger and the smaller pulley. You can argue about how stuff works in theory, but numbers dont lie. The TRD SC is pretty much maxed out with the stock pulley.

I think you need to read more about the TRD SC and not make blanket statements about theoretical applications. The stock SC pulley is 2.4" and puts you at approximately 6.5-7psi of boost. The 2.3" pulley puts you at approximately 7.5-9psi of boost. The variations to in boost can be directly attributed to the different exhaust systems used - stock header v aftermarket, midpipe v no midpipe, exhaust v no exhaust. The more backpressure, the more boost you will read. To my knowledge, Tyler is the only one to have tested a 2.2" pulley, but he has never posted results. Also, at 2.2", you need to find a custom serpentine belt that fits. Beyond 2.2", you are really reaching the generally agreed limits of the stock 1ZZ block.

In the world of forced induction (unless the amount of excess boost is exceeded by the amount of heat produced and loss of power) that actually is the rule of thumb....

Backpressure doesn't have much to do with the amount of air it's pushing through to the combustion chamber..... and if you believe it to be so, then put a larger exhaust on.... there goes that problem

so, you don't actually know that it doesn't make more power.... becuase he couldn't "feel" a difference you assumed it doesn't..... hmmmmm

that's when you walk into any parts stores that sells belts (ie, pretty much all parts stores) and say "excuse me, i need to try about 1/2" to an 1" shorter than this belt please"..... a few seconds later they will emerge with one... the numbers on the belt actually mean something, they aren't just part numbers

so far this is the only logical explanation...<br />
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i haven't seen the TRD supercharger for the 1zz's yet..... i know that from a factory setup toyota uses the ABV (air bypass valve) which is located between the supercharger and the intake manifold.... you actually can cap it off, however.<br />
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if it's mechanically controlled then it would be more difficult to close up (and loss of power through a leaky wastegate is iminent.... as almost all internal turbo wastegates have this problem)<br />
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if it's electronically controlled, then you could pretty easily change the settings with a controller of some sort (depends on how it's electronically controlled)

Rule of thumb is not the same as proven dyno numbers. Larry and Gasser have dyno sheets posted to prove there is no gain.

Backpressure has a lot to do with how much boost (psi) JDM COROLLA S will actually see on his boost gauge. There is already a thread about this topic started by Polo708. Backpressure is also the reason some people read 6.5psi, and some measure 7.5psi even though they are both running the TRD Supercharger, but with different exhaust systems.

Dyno sheets are posted on MO.com. You can check there for yourself. This has nothing to do with feel.

Go for it. Let us know how it goes when you go and look for a belt 1/2" - 1" shorter than a &lt;strong&gt;NON-OEM&lt;/strong&gt; belt.

I am surprised you are so sure you know everything about the TRD supercharger when you have yet to see a TRD supercharger for the 1ZZ. Have you even read or researched anything regarding the 1ZZ superchargers? If I am not mistaken, JDM COROLLA S has a 03+ corolla, so wouldnt all information he is looking for be for the 03+ corolla and not a 4agze equipped vehicle? Instead of speculating, why not defer to someone who actually has experience with the 1ZZ TRD Supercharger? Why not try to answer the question for him, or at least direct him to someplace else that might know the answer.

dude... it's just a roots style blower.... the same style as the sc12 and sc14..... you don't need a special belt for them.... trust me..... the "special" belts for superchargers are generally toothed belts for higher psi blowers... which this isn't anywhere near

i don't need to go off reading specifics about that supercharger, when they are all pretty much the same

i would assume that the differernce in boost readings has a few possibilities..... how tight the line is where they're reading off of.... where they are reading off of, and how long the hoses are.....

if you go more than 1/10" in size than you will see a difference.... yes, there is a downside of possibly shortening the life of the supercharger.... but that is how they work... the output of a supercharger is directly related to the rpm's the unit is being turned at... period

i'm going to assume that your horrible "vibrating/groaning" on the different s/c pulley would because it wasn't balanced correctly..... and that alone might cause a drop in power, and possibly damage the gears turning the screws.....

^^^ most of that is ignoring that there might be an internal wastegate

Are you referring to controlling the actuator and bypass valve toyotaspeed90?

http://www.matrixowners.com/forum/about34142.html

I have never seen any posts regarding trying to modify its setting at different PSIs...

Trd Supercharger Pulley

I have changed the pulleyto a 2.3 and I did notice a pretty big gain, I run a gallon of 100 octane with it to be on the safe side. Before my car was getting exactly 7.5psi not i push towards 8 or 8.5psi, i am still going to get the DC header and install my super AFCII then I will get it tuned, so we will soon see the gains. In case if you were wondering, I have a universal HKS muffler and I did not change the piping at all.

Addicted2Boost and toyotaspeed90 - easy fellas. Your right on both cases, just talking about two different setups (one with the TRD S/C for the 1ZZ-FE and the other with a 4A-GZE).

The TRD supercharger for the 1ZZ-FE has been shown to be very picky about producing more power. Some people had have good luck, most have to resort to better ECMs or water/methanol injection to yield more go. Tricks like a bigger crank pulley/smaller S/C pulley and disabling the ABV, that work well for the 4A-GZE, don't do it for the 1ZZ-FE S/C. Especially the ABV - usually yields 13-14 PSI boost for a 4A-GZE roots blower, the same mod to the TRD unit will overheat the S/C or produce little or no additional power. It just wasn't made to do that. I'm sure with better ECM tuning and some other modifications - the TRD S/C will make more power - but they first wanted to make the unit reliable and able to "bolt-on" a stock 1ZZ-FE.

Plus you're try to compare a F series engine to a G series. G headed engines always had a little extra "tuning" left in them, being the factory performance head. F headed engines have always been optimized out of the box - the mainstay of the factory engines, but built with cost and efficiency in mind.

I'm using 2.0 Pulley 7 to 12 lb boost, you have to add other injector and bor your engine and change piston and rod. if not, i will see your engine in the grave yard

For got, When you add CAI + S/C you gain 10hp at the wheel (fast lowend), Stock Box (High End). I will post pic how to using airbox become CAI without having Check engine light and still have CAI power.