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Too late for synthetic oil?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by rayray1, Jan 11, 2007.

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    rayray1 Active Member

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    Too late for synthetic oil?

    I currently have 84,000 miles on my car and was wondering if it is too late for me to switch over to synthetic?

    When did you guys switch? Did you notice any difference after switching?

    I've been using dino Castrol GTX for the last few years.
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    dward3 Well-Known Member

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    It's not to late to change over. I have about 82k on my 2001 corolla. I really didn't
    feel the difference over the past year :D
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    fishexpo101 Get Some

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    Never too late to go to synthetic. Though the Castrol GTX you have been using is actually quite good stuff as long as you keep up with the maintenance. If the dino oil you been using is API category SM (just look for the starburst symbol on the back of the bottle) - then it probably will give some cheaper synthetics out there a good run.
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    01rollas New Member

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    over time you may notice a difference in the engine running smoother and a bit more quiet at idle, and burn less than conventional oil.
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    rayray1 Active Member

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    Good to know it isn't too late :)

    I will make the switch as soon as I finish what's left of my current stuff.
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    ASG14 NooB, Kinda....

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    I switched at about 65k miles. Just MAKE SURE you have NO oil leaks before you go to Synthetic, or they WILL get much worse, fast. Change the gaskets/seals that are leaking before you do it.
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    jtweezy New Member

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    i switched over at 120k.....doing good so far..now at 135k
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    rayray1 Active Member

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    What intervals do you guys follow when changing your synthetic oil at?

    I just changed the oil today and used up my last bottle of dino.... next one will definitely be synthetic.
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    fishexpo101 Get Some

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    Interval will depends on how the car is driven and what kind of synthetic oil you use. Some synthetics are Group III (basically high quality dino juice), Group IV ("real" synthetics - PAOs. and Group V (Esters). Many synthetics are in the Group III category - you can thank Castrol for that. Years ago - Mobil sued them for using a severly hydrocracked Group III basestock and calling it "synthetic" - Castrol got it upheld in court. Now lots of manufacturers are switching to Group III to save money (Group IV and V are much more expensive to produce).

    For me - mostly highway driving and at least a UOA every third or fourth oil drain interval. I run Mobil 1 EP every 10K-12K miles, or the cheaper Mobil 1 synthetic (now a Group III) every 7K-8K. I could run them longer, given what I see in my UOA - the limiting facter is the oil filter and how much capcity it has to hold insoluables - is right around the max they recommend at 0.5 (I shoot for 0.3 and 0.4), With a filter change, my additive package was still strong enough to run longer. But oil is cheap and I can get a few thousand more miles extra, just by switching to the taller oil filters (save, diamter, same pressure, just a 1/2" longer in case). This give me soem "slop" in mileage - so that if I'm pressed for time or just plain forget that I have an oil change interval coming up - I have enough of a buffer to avoid potential issues.
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    rayray1 Active Member

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    I will most likely go Mobil 1 when my next oil change comes due since it's widely available and it seems a lot of members here swear by it.

    Wow, that's a lot of info to absorb... what are your thoughts on going from a dino oil straight to a grade V synthetic like Redline? (which correct if I'm wrong I think is a grade V synthetic)
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    I switched over to Mobile1 70-80ish i believe and have had not a problem.
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    fishexpo101 Get Some

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    Correct, a Group V basestock like Redline is a great oil - probably comparable to the top Amsoil and Mobil 1 (now Mobil 1 EP) for a history of long drain intervals (18K-25K drain intervals). Won't hurt to run Redline after a dino run - but pretty costly and probably will not see much advantage over running other synthetics. Some other good brands are Pennzoil Platinum (sometimes find this on sale for $2.50 or less per quart - good stuff), Valvoline Synpower (first one I used for extended drains - excellent UOA results), Castrol Syntec GC synthetic (plain Castrol Syntec is just Group III - though the GC stuff is harder to find), Havoline and Quakerstate synthetics are also pretty good.

    But don't discount the newer conventional motor oils - the lastest API service grades of SM oils (still can find lots of oil that are SL (2004) or SJ (2001) on shelves - so becareful. SM graded oils have to stick to much more stringent specifications - in some cases Castrol GTX and the newer Pennzoil conventional motor oils (dino) actually do better than oider spec'd Group III synthetics and some current ones.
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    rayray1 Active Member

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    Yay, I just bought some Mobil 1 10W-30 on sale today.

    I also saw some Castrol Syntec 0W-30 which was made in Germany, does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this oil?

    The weight of the oil just seems a bit weird.
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    gotarheels03 New Member

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    German made Syntec is VERY good oil and probably a better weight to run rather than the 10w30 Mobil 1. Especially for you being in Canada during winters.

    Right now im using dino oil, since the Honda is a lease and will be given back. I'm waiting till after the 1st few oil changes on the Mazda 6 before I decide whether to switch over to synthetic.

    I'd say 7500 miles or so if you're willing to do a filter change at some point. If not, change around 5000.

    I used to use M1 syn and change at 3-3.5K. Big waste of money.
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    rayray1 Active Member

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    thanks guys

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