Engine oil

oil

what kind of oil do you use? which grade and viscosity is better for performance engines?

right now i'm using Mobil Blend 5-30. but i'm considering switching.

just stick to whats worked for you so far. unless youre built.... you dont have a performance engine. i go way way overkill and run royal purple 20w-50 in my gts.... but thats mostly because it sees 8000rpm repeatedly. the oil also gets changed frequently. mobil 5w-30 is plenty good, id run it

eather run a synthetic if your not built, or run what ever regular oil you want and put a can of MOA from BG in it, you won't have to change it for 5000 miles if you don't want to... (MOA keeps the viscosity from breaking down) oh don't put MOA in with synthetic... does very strange and bad things...

I was running Mobil1 in my Corolla..but it's expensive, and I don't have a job at the moment. I recently changed with a synthetic blend..next will be old-fashioned dino-oil. The MR2 is running regular oil as well..forget the brand, though.

01 Rolla using AMSOIL Sythetic 20w30 Racing Formulated
00 Accord 3.0 V6 using AMSOIL Synthetic 10w30 Turbo Formulated
96 Sonoma 2.2L AMSOIL HD 20w50 regular blend
88 Volvo AMSOIL 10w40 High Mileage regular blend
All have AMSOIL products/lubricants through out the vehicle.
the only bad thing is the price of each oil change averages about 85 bucks per vehicle.but I have had very good quality from this particular brand.
www.amsoil.com

Im running the cheapest Dino oil I can find right now for the Civic. I was using Quaker State but figured why not use cheaper stuff since im giving the car back in 20K miles. Ive also just started running 1.5 quarts 5W-20 with 2 quarts 5W30. Figure I'll get better mileage that way. The car is meant for 20 weight, but I think its just too thin. Most other 01+ Civic guys using dino oil run 30 weight as well.

01rolla why are you running 20W-30?

I followed rollas01 20w-30 and it runs so smooth now, no more tranny thumping

you put 20w-50 in your trans?

um, no... that would be so... stupid...

motor oil, lowered revs, dunno I disconnected battery, changed air filter added SAE 50 oil to complete the dipstick (about some... 3/4 quarter it took)

so smooth... can't barely listen it anymore... idle noise is now 10%~ throttle,
I did the reset cause I saw the car when it was pressed hard in the pedal (mothers) it was a dark smoke
so I figured it was running rich

I did some stupid thinking maybe it's more like 15~20w - 30~40
from the original 5w-30

because if i run anything lower my car will burn it faster than the gas light will activate. i had 20w50 and 60 SAE before but i went with something lower since the modifications are not as high as i once had them. Saber, make sure you DO NOT add any additives,then you must really drive the heck out of it as i do with mine. the previous engine i had was modies much more than the one i have right now so it burns it but not as bad as the previous one.

one more thing since you are running a thicker oil, when your car is cold or has been parked for a while let it idle for about a 1 minute so it can run though the engine and it will run more smoothly.

I drive it really smooth, except when I'm in a bad mood... I floor it going up hills...

and no, I don't add additives anymore... waste of cash...
except seafoam can that is going in before changing the oil...
I know, I won't drive it, hehe. oil = water with the seafoam thing
a nice flushing, new 20-40w oil...
what do you recommend in a stock engine 01rollas? I think 20w-40 should be good for my 80~110'f ambient temp where I live...
I need to fix radiator... alight leak in the top seal, then a new water temp thing, (does it always stop in the middle of the water temp gauge?)

your water guage is in normal postion so that is okay just make sure you have coolant in it. if it climbs to the 3/4 then pull over immedialtey and check once pressure has gone down a bit. where do you live such as location and what are the regular temperatures there. 20w30 is fine but a 40 can be really heavy if you do regular driving if you're like me then its ok.

well i'm gonna turbocharge. my compression is still good at 90k, so i want to keep it that way and choose and oil thats ideal for turbo. do u guys get a lot of blowby? when i open my oil cap at idle i get bursts of it. the compression gauge says my compression is still good tho.

define like you ? lol
abusive? lol
2 quarts of 20w-40 and 2 of 20w-30 then same brand

you ARE NOT supposed to open the oil cap when the engine is in operation. check into the brand i use and do what you want. imo i know what i have and good of a quality it has.

hard driving sucha as flooring almost all the time and braking very hard, weaving though traffic at high and low speeds and adding about 10 bucks of gas about once a day. i really force the shit out of my engines, literally why do you think i managed to screw up two already. doing that on the oil should be fine as long as they are the same grade and weight. don't put two Heavy Duty and Two regular if they are going to be different weights keep them the same.

you really contradict yourself.... you blow up engines and brag about it, and then expect us to take your advice on proper maintanence? youre out of your mind....

i don't condratict myself if i know what i do and the work i do. the rolla is my project car ok.other cars such as the Volvo, BMW and M-B, and Honda are cars we use for regualr driving. yes i know my shit but when i like to fuck around with them i will. Your signature just shows how well YOU know how take car of your vehicle as well.if you're certified and know what you are doing then ok but if not don't give me any crap.i know how to take care of my cars and i know how to take car of them as well.

ive been racing for over 4 years now on one engine, i rebuilt. its also a daily driver for over 5 years... i rev my engine higher and drive harder daily than your fwd corolla sedan will ever be capable of. a burnout is a burnout.... moot point. youre like the video of the black dude who shoots his self while giving a gun safety class.

don't give me shit if i drive the way i do its my driving not yours. if i did not know my shit would have never messed around with my car the way i do. plus your engine is better built than mine. it i did not have the problems that i so then it would be fine. but since Toyota was not able to come up with something better than what i have or others have for that matter then there would be no problems. "ever capable" please you and i both know ANY engine is capable of any speed and power overall. what you put into it something different and how you work it also applies to that as well. you have more knowledge on youre specific engine and i work better with mine.

BTW my 98 LE WAS my daily drive until some stupid teenagers stole it and totaled it. so now i have to deal with what i've got.

two points....
1. you state that you weave in and out of traffic at high speeds, or any speed at all, so.... your driving is dangerous and mostly stupid, way to go
2. you dont work better with yours.... you blow yours

all im saying is youre preaching where you have no credibility, due to your own actions. i dont hate you, and im sure youre a cool guy, but you do contradict yourself.

i have never had any accidents or close calls for that matter. and i don't weave like an idiot. i may drive fast, yes i do but i never give any other drivers crap and i drive with as much caution as possible. i don't blow them the NOS did if i did not have it on ther it would have not happen.

two more contradictory statements..... weaving in traffic IS idiotic.

and the nawz statement :wtf: you did blow them.... or did someone sneak by one night and install them without your knowledge, leave it armed, and then proceed to blow your shit? twice