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Forced Induction Need Help Quick, How Do You Bypass A Map Sensor For Boostin?

Discussion in 'Powertrain' started by hazer00, Sep 24, 2005.

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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    Need Help Quick, How Do You Bypass A Map Sensor For Boostin?

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    ****Urgent*****

    NEED HELP QUICK, HOW DO YOU BYPASS A MAP SENSOR FOR BOOSTIN?

    As you know, I have 7a-fte I am running into a problem, I have the greddy emanage for a piggy back, and when i get above 3 lbs of boost my MAP Sensor shit's itself. If you have any ideas, like diode's or proper hook ups for check valves, please let me know.. need help asap

    email: hazer00@yahoo.com


    Thanks
    Steve
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    Vamp Gunmetal 2001 Corolla S

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    I gave him that setup for the check valve. He used only a single check valve and it failed on him for some reason causing his car to die when driving home. I dunno if he got a defective valve or not though.
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    LoSx New Member

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    hmm you prob need the two checkvalves cuz otherwise when the checkvalve closes so boost doesnt come in the map sensor may not stay at atmospheric pressure who knows what value it will just to.....

    try using two check valves and if that fails try different checkvalves... otherwise try the missing link but he prob doesnt have time to order that yet!
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    Well, there are a couple ways around it.

    1) If you have large enough injectors at an exact ratio of 3x larger than stock - (eg 200 stock 600 after) you can tap directly into the map signal from the greddy pressure sensor

    2) Upgrade your injectors by no less than 2x and when you put the compensation factor into the Greddy eManage it will not allow the map sensor input to the ECU to EVER reach maximum. figure if you run 2x sized injectors and your ECU takes a crap @ 4 volts (right about 3psi) then by having the settings to compensate for larger injectors, the MAP will max out @ 5v however the output eManage allows out will *NEVER* reach above 3.5v and thus never trigger your ECU to panic.

    ***HOWEVER***

    You'd better make sure your additional injection maps and ignition maps are correct and you are basing those off readings from the Greddy Pressure sensor or you *will* exceed the AFR limit and blow yur shit.

    I've done both methods and on this Corolla for the last 15,000 miles I've been using method 2 with no problems.

    If you're concerned about the life of your MAP sensor (ie, exceeding it regularly and perhaps causing damage to the sensor providing pressures above what it orginally was designed to handle) you can install a missing link unit which will cut the pressure to the MAP sensor @ atmospheric. While I've never experienced a problem with the MAP failing due to being put under boost conditions, some say it is possible. *shrug* I've got 3 spares laying around so I'm not worried, however you may be. Even more so, should you use a missing link unit, will you need to ensure your maps are correct in the eManage at this point or its adios.

    Something that should be noted however. If your ride is going into panic @ 3psi, then you need to consider definitely upgrading your fuel injectors and pump. The panic is from the ECU discovering it has no mapping for the amount of pressure its sensing. There is a reason for that as the combination of current fuel pump/injectors/programming is directly proportionate and trying to put more boost down than the stock system can handle is dangerous. i recommend you *NEVER* take it above 5psi should you resolve this issue until *after* upgrading your fuel system.

    The most I ever put my stock stuff up to was 7psi (my panic was @ 5psi). @ 2psi above panic, the injector duty cycles were @ 100% and the pulse width was almost infinite - so I was pusing for an injector failure when I did that. (not that I cared, I have 2 spare motors --- you probably do not)


    *DISCLAIMER*
    The testing that *I* do, is to benefit everyone in the community as well as learn as much as I can about the Corollas engine and electrical systems. I have the resources to push some of the limits w/o fear of no ride for an undetermined time as I have spares for all things. This should also make it pretty clear that my numbers are pretty accurate as to the tolerances of the systems as I push these things as far as they can go w/o exploding. I do not recommend *anyone* do the tests that I do or exceed the limits I post as you may be rideless if you so try. Also, it should be noted that some of the limits I post may or may not be your limits as your engine may have more wear, etc. Most of my tests were all done on engines with 90,000+ miles on them. So you can figure they were pretty close to the average wear of a motor and how much stress it can handle.

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