Engine Low temp thermostat....questions...

Low temp thermostat....questions...

I've ran thermostats that were lower the OE temp in my 1990 Camry I had before without problems. My question is this...

On a 2003 Corolla CE, would it caue any problems by running a 160ºF or perhaps 170ºF thermostat?? I think stock is either 180º or 190º. I'm looking for solutions to solve my detonation with the AEM CAI, which only seems to happen when the engine is fully warmed up and is worse on hot days. Anyone else here running a lower-temp thermostat without problems?? with problems??

Thanks,
Trav

Okay. Next question. Where can I get a lower temp thermostat for a 2003 Corolla? The part # differs from 98-02 Corollas, and I can't find anywhere that sales a low-temp thermostat for a 2003. Advance Auto and Autozone are out of the question. Will Toyota sale one, because I know they had low-temp t-stats for the Camry when I had it, but the Camry was like 10 years old. Any other models that use the same t-stat as a 2003 or would a Toyota dealer carry a low-temp t-stat??

Thanks,
Trav

If you're trying to solve detonation problems, replacing the thermostat is not the way to go. Are you sure you're getting detonation and not something else? Detonation is usu. an indication of lean air/fuel mix or spark plugs that are rated too hot for your application. To give you an example, the only detonation I experienced on my turbo'ed Corolla was near redline right before a shift (and that was running at 7psi). Changing to a step colder plugs solved the issue. I can't imagine a mere CAI that provides an extra 3hp causing detonation. Doesn't make sense.

corollaULEV where do u live?

try a better gas first...... or stay in higher rpm's, detonation is harder to occur at higher rpm's as it takes time to happen......

Well, maybe you can help me decide what the deal is. The engine knocks/pings/detonates/rattles/whatever the hell it actually is at 1/2 throttle-WOT consistently between 1800-2800rpms. It is LOUD. Sounds like a can of marbles rattling around in the engine. I've tried every brand and grade of gasoline known to mankind, opened the spark plug gap a tiny bit, cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical parts cleaner, ran several tanks of fuel system cleaner...every product on the shelf including Seafoam, I've reset the ECU a hundred times. This is a never-ending nightmare trying to figure this crap out.

Any ideas??

Trav

How do your spark plugs look? If you really are getting detonation, be careful because it WILL mess up your motor.. I find it really odd that an AEM CAI would cause detonation.. If you've ever considered an air fuel management system, maybe now's a good time to get one... SAFC or Emanage are two I would recommend.

The spark plugs actually look good. The insulator is pearl-white. Slight gray deposit. The electrodes aren't worn. None are blistered or looked overheated. Compression was 200psi on all four cylinders, fwiw.

Where would be a good place to buy the SAFC or Emanage. Between the two, would you recommend one over another. GReddy makes the Emanage, right??

Thanks,
Trav

actually i would put the stock airbox back on and take it to the dealership for warantee service, they can do high tech diagnostics there. you may have done some dmg to the spark plugs or maf when you gapped/cleaned those things. (not saying you did - just saying it's possible)

I agree with superpilun, although it will be hard to fix a problem that isn't there because the CAI wont be on... but perhaps you're having greater issues than just that.. maybe theres an issue with your fuel system.. who knows...

Pinging fuel

There are two other things to look at when trying to fix this problem.
Is the ECM retarding the timing correctly to eliminate the knocking?
And if the ECM is working fine, then maybe the knock sensor isn't doing it's job in transmitting the warning to the ECM.
If these two parts are not playing nice with one another, you will eventually burn holes in the tops of your pistons.
I understand that this is a bad thing, from somebody who did it once.

I think TRD has a 160 degree thermostat that will hurt your fuel mileage a little, but will help produce a little more horsepower.
From what I understand, the tradeoff for a daily driver is not worth the effort because it also produces a little more polution. It would elininate the ULEV rating the 1ZZ-FE engine gets.