Engine Installing a return fuel line on a 98-02 pre-DIY writeup...

Installing a return fuel line on a 98-02 pre-DIY writeup...

<a href="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsReturnFuelLine.cfm" target="_blank">http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsReturnFuelLine.cfm</a><br />
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<img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLine.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLineFuelPressureRegulator.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLineEngineBay.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLineFuelPump.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLineFuelPumpHousing.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <img src="http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsGraphics/ReturnFuelLineFuelTank.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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I converted my returnless system to a return one so that I could insure that my engine would have all the fuel it needed when running boost. It's also good to install if you want to run certain nitrous setups. A list of what I needed was: <br />
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6 to 7 feet of 5/16&quot; fuel injection hose. <br />
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4 feet of 5/16&quot; regular fuel hose. <br />
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4&quot; of 5/16&quot; fuel hose rated for in tank use (SAE J30R10) <br />
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Foam fuel pump sleeve from Auto Performance Engineering. <br />
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An aftermarket fuel rail such as the Stafford one or a DIY one from ATP Turbo. You may be able to drill a hole into the side of your stock fuel rail and tap a hole for a fitting. <br />
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3/8&quot; male to 5/16&quot; flared fitting for the return line off the Stafford fuel rail. <br />
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5/16&quot; flared elbow with a 1/8&quot; NTP female fitting and a 5/16&quot; flared to 1/8&quot; male fitting for the fuel pump housing. <br />
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OEM fuel hardline tubing from Toyota. <br />
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A good fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge (up to at least 60psi) with 5/16&quot; flared fittings. <br />
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Several zipties and at least ten 5/16&quot; EFI hose clamps. <br />
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Fuel rated fire extinguisher just in case. <br />
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Install the aftermarket fuel rail with the fitting for the return line. Be sure to use fuel injection hose to connect it to the stock fuel hardline tubing by the firewall. Use my Installing the Stafford Fuel Rail tips as a guide. I found it best to run the return line towards the drivers side as there was more room to mount the fuel pressure regulator. <br />
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Mount your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) somewhere safe and use another piece of fuel injection hose to connect it to the fuel rail's outlet. You can still run the car like this if you close off the FPR's outlet with a cap fitting. <br />
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Mount the new OEM (return) fuel hardline under the car using heavy duty zip ties. It won't fit into the channel with the rest of the hardlines, so run it underneath instead. <br />
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Connect the FPR's outlet to the newly installed return hardline using regular fuel hose. You may want to use WD-40 to so that the hose can fit over the flared area on the return hardline. <br />
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Now to modify the fuel pump housing. This is the point of no return, so be sure to have an extra one handy. Remove and take apart your fuel pump housing. Use my Installing a Walbro Fuel Pump tips as a guide. Remove the black plastic piece that houses the stock FPR. You'll see a plastic nub on the underside of the housing directly above where the fuel pump sits; cut this off using a Dremel. Drill a hole just large enough for your 5/16&quot; flared to 1/8&quot; male fitting to fit through from underneath. Screw the 5/16&quot; flared elbow with a 1/8&quot; NTP female fitting onto the top. It should be air tight if done correctly. If not, you may need to use a rubber washer in between to seal it tight. Now attach your fuel pump to the flared fitting using your in-tank rated fuel hose. Trim the hose until the fuel pump sits at the same height as stock. <br />
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Trim a little more than an inch off the foam sleeve and slide it over the fuel pump so that it sits at the top. This will help keep the fuel pump snug in place. Reassemble the housing (minus the black plastic and stock FPR). If you were unable to get the foam sleeve, you can secure the fuel pump to the housing with two zip ties. <br />
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Use a Dremel to modify the circular plate that sits on top of the fuel pump housing so that it fits over the new fuel outlet. <br />
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Now we need to cut apart the original hose that went from the fuel pump housing to the fuel hardline. This is because we've now turned the outlet from the fuel pump housing into the return inlet and created a new outlet using the 5/16&quot; flared fittings. Take off the stock hose and slit the ends so that you can pull off both the plastic fittings. Attach the fitting that was connected to fuel hardline to a piece of fuel injection hose. Run that hose up from under the car and attach it to the flared fitting outlet on the fuel pump housing. Now connect the other end to the fuel hardline. This hose will feed your fuel rail gas. <br />
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Take the other plastic fitting that was connected to the fuel pump housing and attach it to a piece of regular fuel hose. Run that hose up from under the car and connect it to fuel pump housing. Now connect the other end to the return hardline. This hose will now return gas from the FPR to your tank. <br />
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Double check that all the hoses and clamps are tight. Have the fire extinguisher at hand in case something goes wrong. Start up the car to get the fuel pump running, then turn it off and check for leaks. If no leaks are found start the car again and check the fuel pressure gauge. Make sure you have the vacuum hose disconnected from the FPR and that hose is plugged to prevent a vacuum leak. With the engine running, the fuel pressure should be between 44 and 50 psi. If not, turn off the car adjust it then check again. Keep doing this until you get within that range.

Just installed my return line last night. I have the Tips page up at http://vamp.darkravers.net/TipsReturnFuelLine.cfm.

Excellent write-up as usual. I can always count on you for well-thought out and well-documented projects.