Engine Engine parts from MWR

Engine parts from MWR

I was looking over at their list and being a broke college student that I am, I can't afford to buy more than one upgrade at a time.

There shouldn't be a problem with just upgrading one at a time right? Sorry if it might seem like a stupid question to some of you.

Also, I don't know anything about the engine but do you think the local auto shops would want to mess with you by putting a part that isn't an OEM replacement?

Which part should I start out with?

camshafts

High comp. overbore pistons and forged rods, FTW.

i cant afford to bore the engine yet.. plus, i'd prefer to have MWR do it for me than the local shops here.

i've decided to buy headers for the next upgrade. can someone tell me if the celica 1zzfe header listed on the MWR fits w/ NO modification for the corolla?

1700$ ain't that bad in pieces to build me engine...

but I don't know how much the local comprehensive masters of machining will going to take from me, not to mention the mechanic

I'll leave headers for now.

Does anyone here use Unorthodox Racing's pulley kits?
I'm looking at this one in particular:
http://www.andysautosport.com/toyot...lley_kits/unorthodox_racing/unor00011328.html

Any advice for other products?

I'd buy just the AEM alternator pulley if anything. I've heard some horror stories about lightweight and underdrive crank pulleys causing extra engine wear.
I'd save up for something really worthwhile. Even if you dont' do big-bore pistons, at least get high comp. and forged rods. That will give you a pretty substantial power boost.

yeah i got the crank and alternator pulley... the crank pulley is well designed and you dont have to worry about the harmonic balancer

did you guys install them yourselves?

Crank pulley is pretty easy to change if you have the right tools, like an air impact wrench and pulley puller (may not be neccessary - sometimes the pulley comes off easily). Not too expensive to buy the puller - but still around $60 for a decent set - many parts stores offer tool rental - so this might work better. Air impact - you can get electric variants, but many do not have the torque to break the bolt loose. A cheater bar can help if it is long enough - its spec'd at only 102 ftlbs, but even that is pretty tough to loosen.

Personally, I'm not really sold on these pulleys. If you look around - you will see two sides, one that says there is no problem running them and the other saying that you will damage your engine if you do. Answer is probably somewhere in between.

Example - when I replaced the OEM D-series engine in my old CRX for a B-series one from a Civic Si. Both had lightweight pulleys and underdrive accessory pulleys. Both engines were torn down, but only the D series showed excessive front bearing wear, the B-series engine was fine. Buddy did the same with a H22 Prelude - after 40K, started leaking oil around the front seal - ending up tearing it down and finding the bearings completely wiped. I had one on the Matrix when I bought it - but took it off fairly quickly. I didn't notice much difference at all in power. Probably due to the fact the pulley is already driving a pretty decent load (A/C, alternator, W/P, P/S) - lightening it didn't due much on the 2ZZ-GE engine.

Seems to me - some engines are more "balanced" than others or have accessories that modulate the resonance of the engine. Harmonic balancers protect the engien from harmful vibrations that are keyed to a specific RPM range. Lightweight pulleys cannot dampen these vibrations and can cause excessive bearing wear. Not really a function of pulley itself, as they can be made to be perfectly balanced, just the range that the new pulley can dampen vibrations and what frequency. You could still get bearing wear with the OEM balancer if the resonance frequency is shift above or below the intended target range - can happen, the factory can only pick a range that should encompass all the cars as best as possible. Some people get lucky and have zero wear issues - probably due to something they bolted onto the block, changed in the valvecover, changed engine mounts, etc. - shift the frequency enough where it wouldn't be an issue for wear.

If you are willing to risk possible engine wear - then go for it. Can't expect to boost power and not risk anything in the exchange - no such thing as a free lunch. Personally - I would go with a lightened flywheel or traditional bolt ones than mess with the pulley.

eh so what should i upgrade lol..

hi compression coated forged pistons, if not OVER BORE!

and forged rods and valves and springs imho

my next step it to bore out the engine, the pulleys from Unorthodox Racing are good, if you find them cheaper than 319 not in cluding shipping then its good but i would have not paid more than what i did recently and i bought it off the actual site.