Engine DIY Gas Mileage Increase

DIY Gas Mileage Increase

I've been designing this for some time. I've never really shared it with anybody, but I think now is the time. Most of this is online, but I've added some stuff.

The purpose of this canister is to increase the gas mileage of your car by filtering the exhaust recirculation gasses. By removing large particles of junk from the exhaust being ported into the engine, this has less of an impact on the engine's correct fuel/air ratios.

I have a prototype I have built, but the device is too large to fit in my car. But, the corolla has lots of space inside to try this.

The device is installed in between the PCV valve of your automobile
engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to.

* You must empty this canister on a regular basis* (2 weeks)

This stuff below can be really confusing. So, I made some diagrams.

How to build:

Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with a wide mouth. The wide mouth is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs' to fit in the jar. Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid, locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid.

Locate and cut another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the center of the lid and the outside edge of the jar lid. At this point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it. Try to keep the holes neat without any excess metal protruding above or below
the lid surface.

Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts. Use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures, and buy it at lamp shops. Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which you don't want. This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is connected. Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length.

Cut the end with the pouring hole, out of the small V8 juice can. Wash out and dry the can. Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the juice can. Using 1/2 inch nuts, and fender washers and silicone gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge the holes in the washers to
fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the V8 juice can.

Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down inside the can. Use the fender washers on both side of the juice can to provide support. This can will be eventually filled with BBs', and the washers are necessary because of the weight.

Take the 1-1/2 inch length of threaded pipe, 2 nuts and some silicone gasket sealer, and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT the hole in the very center. Leave 2 or 3 threads of the pipe showing on the underside of the jar lid.

Back to the juice can. Cut a piece of aluminum window screen to neatly fit the inside of the juice can, and push it down into the juice can, leaving no gaps for the BBs' to roll into the threaded pipe. Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'.

Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull it over the end of the juice can, leaving about a 1/2 inch skirt of screen. Using a large worm gear type hose clamp, gently tighten the clamp, snugging the screen to the outside surface of the juice can. You have to be careful here. You want to tighten the clamp just enough where the juice can STARTS to deform.

Install this can full of BBs' in the center hole of the jar lid, using washers and nuts. Leave about 1/2 inch of space between the top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar.

Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine
as follows:

From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV valve. If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to secure the hose.

From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine.

MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! ! If not, you will know what is meant by a vacuum leak.

Now for the hardest part:

You want to locate a spot in the engine compartment to mount a 1pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar. Try to locate a place where the hoses can be kept as short as possible.

Cut several holes in the bottom of the coffee can to let any water drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have driven through. Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around.

To make this assembly blend into the engine compartment, paint the jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black. Consider using hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses.

Depending on how far you drive, the jar will probably require emptying about once a month. Vehicles which are driven short distances and the engine never really gets up to maximum temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week.

The jar will contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that takes place in the oil pan. The liquid in the jar contains unburned hydrocarbons, water and sludge. The liquid is also mildly acidic, as a result of the water vapor and the unburned hydrocarbons,
combining. Some people have noticed a slight burning sensation, if the liquid gets on the skin.

* As soon as I can get pictures of my prototype, I'll post them.*
BTW: Somebody actually patented this, so I can tell you how to build it, but I can't make it for you.

Whoops!

In theory, the canister should increase the mileage without increasing emissions. The only problem is every 2 weeks you end up with a tank full of water and hydrocarbons. What do you do with it?

To make it removable fast, you could place two 3-way valves in the PCV line. I was trying to design a canister that could be purged. That would do away with the engine wear benefits, but it would keep the gas mileage boost. When the canister was filled up, it would pump the stuff into the engine. It would make the engine run a little rich, but would save people from having to empty the tank.

The real problem with putting a sensor in the tank is what else is in the tank. The substance that is normally burned, is probably closer to sludge than water. That would ruin/jam the sensor in the first few weeks. The original article claimed that by removing this junk and just having vapors recirculate, it increase mileage by around 25% and up to 40%. I'm not sure it's true, but this is the only DIY for gas mileage other than the TB coolant bypass mod i've been able to find.

Ok, I thought about it some. You have an input line that activates when the engine starts. A timer will set the valves to purge mode for 10 minutes, then the timer would reverse and stay in normal configuration. This way, every time the engine is started, it would purge the container. This might help with cold starts because it would make the mixture extra rich.

To work, the container would need to be placed right side up. The "pump" would actually be the engine's vacuum.

wow this is ancient. never thought anybody would care. em it should get your freeway mileage up by maybe 3-5, I haven't tested it. I have built one though. the entire idea is to remove crap from the oil that is dumped back into the engine. this keeps the stuff reentering the engine a lighter/ more pure burning substance. So, the efficiency of the engine should go up. That's why you get more gas mileage.