DIY - Alarmin The Rolla (and wiring codes!)

xtm · Jun 28, 2003

DIY - Alarmin' The Rolla (and wiring codes!)

Disclaimer: I have never worked on previous Corolla models (2002 and older) so if unsure, please DO NOT USE this guide for previous makes. This guide is strictly for 2003 Corolla ONLY (Might work for the 2004 models as well) I also assume that you know the BASIC automotive electrical system, and at least how relays/door pins work. Also how to use a DMM (Multimeter) for continuity test and voltage reading. As a general rule, you should FUSE everything that registers voltage, make sure the fuse rating does NOT exceed the wire capacity (rendering it useless), do not wire near hot or moving parts, do not mess anything that you know nothing about. If you have questions, PLEASE ASK. I won't be held responsible if you burn your car (that fire extinguisher found on most ricers' A-pillars would be useful)

Feel free to add this to the DIY list :mrgreen:

So what exactly is the difference between installing your own alarm versus going to the shop and having them install it while you smoke outside?

1. Custom Job - You feel confident that you made a good and detailed job of soldering/placing the necessary connections. I've seen "installers" do a mickey mouse install on car alarms and I cringe everytime I look at the electrical tapes...
2. You choose where to mount the alarm brain - Once your car gets broken into (hope not) The first thing the thief looks for is the alarm brain. You NEED to hide this thing!
3. Cost - You can buy a quality DEI Viper or Alpine with pager/remote start and all that hoopla on eBay for CHEAP (around $150) and install them yourself. OR you can go to your local Al & Eds and pay $600 installed.. literally. Go figure! you decide

So let's get started. What you need:

-YOUR ALARM PACKAGE (note that *some* Alarms require the use of one OR multiple Bosch-type relay; you can buy these from Rat Shack for about $3.50 ea/. Check with your manual for "Onboard Relays"..........Wire Stripper, Soldering Iron/Gun, Soldering Lead, Set of screwdrivers, Electrical tape (I prefer wire looms and heatshrink tubing) Fuse+Fuse Holders, Wrap-ties (which should be included in the alarm package) You will also need a Multimeter.
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NOTE: Since every alarm is different, this is NOT a step-by-step DIY. I will only show you WHERE each wire goes, location, and wire color.
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1. Download THIS Wiring Code Chart.
2. Remove the steering column cover (marked with dots) It is being held by 3 screws (see arrows)

3. Using the Wiring Chart and your DMM, locate the constant +12 wire (Registers voltage at ALL times) Connect this to your Constant +12 in your alarm brain.

4. Ground the alarm brain into ANY metal surface. (Use BLACK wire) Again, test with a DMM to see if the ground is registering as GND.

5. Locate the Starter wire (SOLID RED) Most alarm brains have a terminal going to the (a)MOTOR and (b)KEY. Splice each wire and connect them to the alarm brain "STARTER KEY" and "STARTER MOTOR", respectively. This is your ignition kill.

6. Locate the Ignition wire (I call it Accessory wire) It is BLACK with WHITE stripe and registers voltage ONLY when you turn on the key. Wire this to your alarm's IGNITION.

7. Remove the passenger kickpanel and locate the blue harness (see pic below) These wires control the power door locks/power window in your car. The ones controlling the PDL is marked with arrows. Your alarm produces negative/positive pulse to lock/unlock the car so you will have to connect EACH wire to the correcponding arrows in the pic. DO NOT SOLDER YET. Now press UNLOCK in the controller and your car will either lock or unlock. When you press UNLOCK and it locks, it is in REVERSE polarity and just simply exchange the connection and it should be good. Now solder them and return everything.

8. Alarm Input Wires (aka Door Pins) Registers Negative voltage when any door is open (PIN is "popped up") When the door is closed (PIN is pressed = No voltage) Connect each of the door pins to your alarm's "DOOR PIN" input. THE COROLLA IS A NEGATIVE INPUT SYSTEM Do not connect this to a Positive Input in your alarm. Do the same process in the trunk (the door pin is dead center in the latching pin and registers GND as well)

9. Parking lights - The alarm brain pulses a quick +12v on this output to flash the parking lights. The easiest way to wire this is by routing the wire all the way to the trunk, pop the small cover in the tail light area and locate the white harness. From that harness, look for the SOLID GREEN wire and connect it there. The "more professional" but harder way is by following the Wiring Guide and locating the Fuse Panel in the hood.

10. Siren - In most Car Alarms, the Positive is FUSED to the battery and the Negative is connected to the alarm brain. Mount the Bell Housing DOWNWARDS so that it won't collect water.

11. LED - Probably the most "fun" part for most of us (lol) You can use BLUE LEDs or whatever you want. This is your status indicator.

12. Valet/Override Switch - Connect this to your "SWITCH" connection in the alarm brain.
It enables you to manually disarm the alarm. HIDE THIS but make sure it's accessible.

So there.. we have discussed the BASIC installation of car alarm. If you have other questions about other options (door poppers, illuminated entry, remote start, adding additional siren, etc) Just post. Good Luck!