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Forced Induction Disable EGR and VSV on a 97 Corolla!

Discussion in 'Powertrain' started by hazer00, Nov 14, 2006.

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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    Egr Has Been Disabled And Boost Is So Much Better!

    Does anyone know how to eliminate the EGR Valve and the VSV on a 97 Corolla and still have the engine run smooth and no check engine light when going into boost? Any thoughts, comments and idea's would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Steve
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    mmm so glad i dont have egr... i remember seeing something about this but i believe it entailed swapping out to a JDM motor (no EGR) and JDM ECU
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    if you figure it out, i'll buy your old egr.. mines is busted.. CEL for the last 2 months.. hate that pos.
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    Denver Rolla 98 impreza

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    oh is that all...
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    couldn't you just plug the hole where the egr valve goes? and then put a 40 ohm resistor (that can handle the same wattage as the VSV could) in place of the VSV.

    this should fool the ecu and I don't think the EGR has any sensors tied directly to it.
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure if the flow sensor is the same as the VSV (or EGR solenoid as other call it).. but the treason for my CEL is a "insufficent EGR flow detected." Although I have not gone too far indept to find the problem. As long as the crapolla is not running limp, i'm happy.
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    that is caused by one of these according to the manual:
    EGR valve stuck closed
    Open or short in VSV circuit for EGR
    Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected
    Manifold absolute pressure sensor
    EGR VSV open or close malfunction

    but I still think a resistor would do the trick. the thing is nothing but a solenoid that sends more vacuum to the EGR control valve

    could try pulling the tubes on the VSV and putting a cap on them and clear the cel, then see if it comes back or not.
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    Yea it's one of three things, EGR valve, modulator or VSV.. unfortunitely each of the three cost ~$120. I could test the EGR valve and modulator with a vac pump but I never managed to get my hand on one. I changed out those little vacumm hoses @ th throttle body but that didn't help.

    CB: where'd you get the 40ohm resistance value from? Have you had experience with deleting the EGR system from another car. I agree all that's need to be done is machine a block off plate and use a resistor to fool the ecu into thinking the vsv is in working order.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    EGR was one of the dumbest ideas ever.
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    '97 corolla repair manual. says the vsv has a resistance of 37-44 ohms
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    Rolla95 Rollin' Out y0

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    my CEL is on for the EGR Gas Temperature Sensor code 71. and im not spending $116 to replace it so i just took the vacuum line directly from the egr and put it straight to the throttle body so my EGR still works and i gained back my gas mileage since that, but the CEL is still on
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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    LOL, I love this guy^^

    Just like wayne said, my CEL is for a number of things and the EGR is the source of all of my problems. I have replaced the VSV and the EGR Valve twice and nothing!!! The damn CEL is still on. I have even blocked off the EGR Valve hole with billet aluminum 1/8" thick and the heat from the exhaust gases actually blew a hole through it. So I am going to try a thicker material next time. However before it shot a hole through it the light came back on. I have a series of check valves on my map sensor so I sensor only reads vacuum and my toyota scan tool, tells me it is in the right. However, my VSV and accumulator are a different story. they are fucked the moment I go into boost. Another problem is my 02 sensor is always saying insufficent flow and slow responce. Sucks ass. Wayne as for my EGR you don't want it, it's toast. I have been riding around with about 5-8 different codes for the past yr and a half.

    Corolla's Best, Please tell me more about this 40ohm resistor and what type and voltaqe to buy. I want to try this one out. And yes, my stupid car runs in open loop most of the time I am in boost. I found a way around that though. www.urdusa.com do a search for a ESC1. It is a split second controller that keeps your car in closed loop mode so that the cars ecu will not try to compensate for boost, it will however allow a piggy back or SAFC run the show. Pretty sweet device. Vamp has it installed. He has perfect a/f all throughout boost. I will get one of these for myself soon, however right now, I cannot afford it.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    hehe im just callin it like it is man.

    you and me both.
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    for the resistor idea you'd need to find a resistor between 37-44 ohm's at room temperature.

    I looked on radioshack's site but they don't sell one within that small range. You'd most likely have to get multiple resistors and solder them together.

    like 20+20 or something. resistors can be soldered head to tail and in series it has an additive effect.

    this should barely be within the range. that is a pack of 5 so you'd take 2 head to tail soldered and that would replace where the 2 wires go in to the VSV. *should* null the system unless the computer is smart enough to figure it out because the value wouldn't change much.

    I think this is a low power circuit so these wimpy 1/4 watt resistors *shouldn't* explode, but.. with all things, there is a chance. no risk to the ecu though, if one goes the system just stops working.
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    electrical engineering madness
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    that's my degree!.. in about 2 years :p
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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    pretty much worth every penny eh? I bet you have some crazy ass setups at your place with that degree.


    So how exactly would I wire this in! cut off the conector or something?
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    either cut off the connector and solder/crimp it or stick the resistor series directly into the connector, tape it up and hope it dosent fall out.

    so steve, am I to assume that you never got the CEL problem fixed even after you swapped over to a 5spd part no. EGR?
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    I'd just stuff it in to the contacts of the plug for now until you know it actually works.. if it does I'd make a little plastic piece to plug in to the connector .. rip it off a non-working vsv maybe.
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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    You assume correctly.. will let you know when I fix the problem!

    Ok, I will give it a shot
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    JspeXAE102 Well-Known Member

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    I did a little more research on the subject. I believe it is the EGR Gas Temerature sensor that is what tells the ECU to throw the CEL not the VSV (EGR Solenoid). The VSV/solenoid is afterall only a switch not a sensor. The only problem is I'm not sure where that sensor is located. On 93-95 it seems to be plugged right into the bottom port of the EGR valve. But I can't locate it on 96-97.

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/a6/95/0900823d8016a695.jsp
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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    EGR has been successfully by passed! Thanks to "CorollasBest" for the resistor idea. One resistor a little bit of stainles stell and I am all set, no more boost lag and awesome power. Thanks.
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    Vamp Gunmetal 2001 Corolla S

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    Easier to street tune as well!
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    1337Rolla oh my

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    ;) Glad to help! Now it just has to hold up to long term use and keep the ecu fooled.
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    hazer00 Psycho Child

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    I hope so too. So far so good!

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