Engine 1ZZ-FE, How Durable?

It's an all aluminum motor. I think it runs at 11:1 compression. You'd blow the motor to pieces before you achieve 200hp.

If you want a car with over 200hp, get an SRT4, WRX or an EVO. Speed doesn't come cheap. The Corolla is also the wrong car to start with.

I was aware it was an aluminum motor, but while we're on the topic, does anyone know how tough the ductile iron sleeves are? I heard the 1ZZ's are thicker than the 2ZZ. As far as compression, it is the 2ZZ that runs 11.5:1, the 1ZZ is 10.0:1 stock, with a thicker head gasket it should be around 9.5:1 (like most hondas running 50-75shot on stock internals). The fact that the car runs to its redline worry free on 87 octane gas tells you that with 92-93 octane gas you should be able to throw in some extra horsepower (N2O, or F.I. or otherwise), bottom end willing that is. I did <i>some</i> research (mostly looking at the elise/mr-s guys with some coin to drop) and from what I have seen there I am pretty sure there are people putting down 200whp plus on stock internals. What I am really looking for in this thread is someone who has been there and done it. Like I said I am prepping the internals, I may not be going all out (ie stage 4 MWR) but FFWD's stuff is proven enough. As far as the whole "gotta pay to play" deal, I agree with you to an extent, but it helps to know how(and more importantly "who&quot to spend your money to get the most bang for the buck (excuse the crappy pun), my TSI had 383hp @ the front wheels (I've got the dyno slip to prove it) and I put that car together for under 2 grand. I didn't choose this car as it were, I inherited it from my Great Uncle Pete, you could say it choose me - I wish it would have been an evo/sti/srt-4/F1 car for chrissake, believe me.

1ZZ-FE, How Durable?

I was wondering if anyone knew the "weak-link" or first thing to go on a 1ZZ-FE. I have a 2001 Corolla (VVTI) and my planned set-up includes: Stock pistons (cryo treated, top coated, and side skirt treated via FFWD Connection), Stock Rods (cryo treated), high quality re-ring kit (any suggestions?), arp hardware, thicker than spec head gasket (to lower c.r.), OBX header (junk I know, but only option), High quality chambered muffler, free flowing cat., and ZEX Direct Port nitrous kit (Wet - jetted @ 75-100shot). Am I going to scatter this motor if I dont build it with the Darton/Wiseco/Crower combo. MWR is trying to sell me? Can my little 3 speed automatic take 200whp? I plan on running the nitrous on a window switch (3,000 - 6,500rpm). I have the ground work laid with shocks/struts, and a cheap set of spare steelies with 20 x 14 x 6 inch M/T slicks . Hopefully bust into the 14's with this setup? What do you guys think?

I have heard that there is an issue with the rods and rod bearings on these cars. A cheap solution may be to run the factory rods from the 1ZZ-FED (made in Japan, found in the Celica GT and MR2-S). I still plan on having them cryo treated. Another thing to consider is the CamCon unit to pull the cam advance back and fight detonation. Ill keep thinking out loud! Peace!

You sure you have 3 speed auto for your 01 czechomix? I think rolla only come with 4 speed auto since 01. Maybe I'm wrong or it's just in Canada.
Try do a search, I remembered there was a thread about nitrous said that 1zz with 50 shots had no problem, and then someone blew it with 75 shots.

easy way to tell if its a 4 spd on a rolla is do u hav a O/D button on the side of the shifter... if u hav O/D button then its a 4spd, if u don't hav it then its a 3spd...

I definately don't have an overdrive button, the transmission is my biggest hold up, I have my motor build all planned out, it should be done for under $750 (the price of a set of crower rods mind you). My car came uber stripped down because my great uncle who initially ordered the car was even more "tightfisted" than me. The car doesnt have a clock, or a tach for chrissake! I sorta just assumed it had the 3spd because it would be cheaper than getting a 4spd. I guess that confirms it

lol, your with the same tranny I'm with...

now... with the tranny...
it COULD exploit the power better of a high powered engine (if I remember correctly dragster do use auto trannies in 2 or 3 speed configs...)
but... you would have to set the engine to output a more flatter torque/power band rather than mount everest peaks in close geared high revving cars (think 6-speed tercels and ricer civics)

if you choose to keep the tranny, think about the following when rebuilding...

engine mounts, changed mine, I knew they were somewhat bad, but when I saw them out, they looked like shit and I could move the rubber with my fingers... really bad stuff

this causes "slinging" feeling when gear changes, but I suppose you know this stuff already

high stall torqueconverter

try to find a LSD or closed diferrencial (if such thing exists for the 3 speed AT)

you can get a tach by mounting the appropiate dials (you do have to plug the rpm sensor somewhere in the car (haven't pinpointed where lol)

if you have your engine torned apart you can port and polish the intake manifold and exhaust header

The power/torque curves on the 1zz are actually heaven sent. It is flat all the way up the the redline http://monkeywrenchracing.com/cgi-b...tes/dcs4402.jpg the torque fluctuates over a 12-14ft lb range throughout the entire power band and the power productions is a steady hike. With nitrous power the powerband would stay flat and healthy, but I would probably throw the transmission apart haha. I am pricing out tachs (by pricing out I mean finding the cheapest thing possible) I looked at lsd's and they are going to be 500 minimum, same with the TC, but the TC would be definately worth it. Thanks for the help!

As an alternative to the aftermarket tach would be finding a used gauge cluster with the tach. It should just plug right in with no modifications.

The thing I find ironic about the different clusters Toyota and Chevy put in the '98-'02 Corolla/Prizm is that it seemed to be determined by the trim level. So a Prizm LSI with an automatic had a tach (for what?) while a base model with a manual did not. Weird.

Thats what I did... got a complete cluster w/ tach off of ebay for like 40 bux and took swapped the speedos so the mileage was accurate and off I went... but having the base model 01 Prizm, I did not have tilt wheel steering so I had to take the steering wheel and pretty much the whole driver side of the dash apart to get it in...

Tach works perfectly and looks a hell of a lot better than those huge gas and temp gauges...