Celica info from the BLADDER

Celica info from the BLADDER

[size=+2]Years & Specs:[/size]


4th gen Celica (1986-1989)
ST162 ST - 2S-E (92HP), 3S-FE (115HP)
ST162 GT - 2.0L 3S-FE (115HP)
ST162 GT-S - 2.0L 3S-GE (135HP)
ST165 All-Trac - 2.0L 3S-GTE (190HP)


5th gen Celica (1990-1993)
AT180 ST - 1.6L 4A-FE (103HP)
ST184 GT - 2.2L 5S-FE (135HP)
ST184 GT-S - 2.2L 5S-FE (135HP)
ST185 All-Trac - 2.2L 3S-GTE (200HP)

Extra info:
1. 92-93 Celica GT+GT-S had the same brakes as the All-Trac.
2. STX and GTX models were offered. These models just offered more options.
3. ST's only came coupe. GT came in either coupe, hatchback, or convertible. GT-S only came hatchback.
4. Early model = 90-91. Later model = 92-93.
5. Lug patterns = 5x100 & 4x100.



6th gen Celica (1994-1999)
AT200 ST - 1.8L 7A-FE (105HP)
ST204 GT- 2.2L 5S-FE (135HP)


7th gen Celica (2000-2005)
ZZT230 GT - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE (140HP)
ZZT231 GT-S - 1.8L 2ZZ-GE (180HP)

Extra info:
1. When you hear a Toyota owner say, "I changed my 'Lift' activation point". Thats the equivalent to a Honda owner saying, "I change my 'VTEC' activation point".
2. "Lift" activation point = 6000RPM
3. 02 models had a lower fuel-cut (7600RPM), which made it harder for owners to stay in "Lift" while shifting gears.
4. Early models had tight shift gates, which caused many owners to mis-shift. This in turn caused many engines to fail.
5. Lug pattern = 5x100.

[size=+2]T-VIS:[/size]
*Note: This only pertains to the 3S-GE and 3S-GTE.*

Toyota-VariableInductionSystem

This system debuted in earlier Toyota MR2 and Corolla models. Instead of the normal 4 intake runners of an intake manifold, this manifold contains 8 runners. In between the manifold and the head itself, there is a plate in which 4 of the 8 runners have a flapper door than can be opened and closed as needed. Under normal cruising conditions 4 of these 8 runners are sealed, forcing all the air through the 4 small air ports. When the RPM reaches 4300 RPM, or the throttle is fully pressed (WOT), the flappers will open allowing all 8 ports to be open. This will create the effect of 4 large intake ports and thus open the door to higher performance upper end while maintaining low end responsiveness.

Complete manifold


T-VIS assembly


T-VIS manifold


[size=+2]VVT-i:[/size]
*Note: This only pertains to the 1ZZ-FE*

VariableValveTiming-intelligent

Utilises a sophisticated computer to vary the air intake valve timing according to driving conditions and engine load. By adjusting the overlap time between the exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening, the engine characteristics can be changed to provide instant engine torque across the entire rev range. This gives the best of both worlds: Powerful acceleration and superior fuel economy. In addition, more complete fuel burn at a higher combustion temperatures leads to fewer emissions.

In short, it varies the timing of the intake cam continuously.



Video animation of VVT-i at work:


[size=+2]VVTL-i:[/size]
*Note: This only pertains to the 2ZZ-GE*

VariableValveTimingLift-intelligent

In 1998, Toyota started offering a new technology, VVTL-i, which can alter valve lift (and duration) as well as valve timing. In the case of the 16 valve 2ZZ-GE, the engine has 2 camshafts, one operating intake valves and one operating exhaust valves. Each camshaft has two lobes per cylinder, one low rpm lobe and one high rpm, high lift, long duration lobe. Each cylinder has two intake valves and two exhaust valves. Each set of two valves are controlled by one rocker arm, which is operated by the camshaft. Each rocker arm has a slipper follower mounted to the rocker arm with a spring, allowing the slipper follower to move up and down with the high lobe with out affecting the rocker arm. When the engine is operating below 6000 rpm, the low lobe is operating the rocker arm and thus the valves. When the engine is operating above 6000 rpm, the ECU activates an oil pressure switch which pushes a sliding pin under the slipper follower on each rocker arm. This in effect, switches to the high lobe causing high lift and longer duration.



Sources used:
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=94136
http://www.toyota-europe.com/innovation/technology/engines/vvt_i.asp
http://www.toyota.com.au/toyota/main/vvti/index.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celica
http://www.alltrac.net/FAQ.html
http://www.gtfours.co.uk/what/tvis/tvis.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VVT-i

[size=+2]Engine Swapping:[/size]

[size=+1]Some Guidelines:[/size]
1. Check the laws of your state to verify that swapping your engine with another one is legal.
2. Do as much research as you can. This is important because you want to be prepared for anything that can happen while doing your swap.
3. When buying an imported engine, you can either get one in a front/rear clip, or you can buy an engine set. Buying a front/rear clip is good for those who want to make sure they have all the necessary parts to make their engine swap successful. Problem with front-clips is that they typically cost more than engine sets. Also, after you're done with your swap, you have to figure out how to dispose of whats left over. For those who are familiar with engine swapping and know what parts they need, an engine set can be ideal for them. That really depends because some engine sets carry all the parts necessary for a successful swap and some don't. Those that don't either don't have an ECU, wiring harness, or something else thats obviously necessary. If you're shopping online, be very careful to read what the engine set comes with or else you might find yourself looking for extra parts to complete your swap, and that could take a while. If you're lucky and the place thats selling the engine is nearby you, ask if you can go over and inspect the engine yourself. That way you can make sure you're getting everything you need.

What a front clip looks like:



What a rear clip looks like:




4. Keep in mind that some of these engines are old, so it's best to do some maintenance to them while the engine is out to save yourself some headaches.
5. Search for part numbers for the particular engine you're planning to get. You might run into a problem where your local Toyota dealer doesn't have the part you need for your engine.
6. An important part of engine swapping is wiring. You can either do it yourself or have someone do it for you. If you have someone do it, make sure you know the person's background and work they've done. You definitely do not want to have someone mess up your wiring harness. If you know what you're doing, then go ahead and do it yourself. For those that are planning on doing it themselves, I highly suggest you read Dr. Tweak's post on wiring:
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6359


[size=+1]Engine Choices:[/size]
It's best to stay within engine families so that you won't have trouble fitting in the new engine to your chassis. What I have listed below are engines within the same engine family that can be swapped in and can improve your vehicle's performance.

4A-FE -> 4A-GE, 4A-GZE
If you want to get your 4A-FE powered Celica moving, do yourself a favor and junk the engine. You'll be wasting your time and money trying to make an engine designed for economy purposes to move. Now let's talk about 4A-GE/GZE's. You can either source a 4A-GE/GZE from somewhere in this country, or source it from Japan. Difference from Japan is that Japan also offered 20V 4A-GE's and later versions of the 4A-GZE.

Some features of the 20V 4A-GE:
Yamaha-designed head with 5-valves per cylinder
Early model = Silvertop (160PS, AFM)
Later model = Blacktop (165PS, MAP)
Individual Throttle Bodies

Whether you decide to go 16V or 20V, both 4A-GE's have potential to make power. You can always look to the Formula Atlantic 4A-GE to see what a 4A-GE is capable of. If you want boost, the 4A-GZE is your answer. It has some of the same features as the regular 4A-GE but with a lower compression ratio and a supercharger to play with.

USA-spec 16V 4A-GE's can be found in:
1985-1989 MR2's
1985-1990 Corolla's

USA-spec 16V 4A-GZE's can be found in:
1988-1989 MR2's

JDM-Spec 20V 4A-GE's + 16V 4A-GZE's can be found in:
Corolla Levin's
Sprinter Trueno's

5S-FE/2S-E -> 3S-GE, 3S-GTE
Again, don't waste your time with both these engines. Although I will point out that one of the good things about the 5S-FE is that the block is stronger than the 2nd gen 3S-GTE we got over here and you could use it to make a 2.2L 5S-GTE (5S block with 3S-G head) hybrid setup. Theres 4 generations of both 3S-GE's and 3S-GTE's to choose from. The list details the generation number, power output, valve cover color + technology used, markets it was sold in, and the cars that came with the engine.

3S-GE:
1st gen - 135HP (T-VIS) -> USA, JDM, UK 4th gen Celica's
2nd gen - 160PS (ACIS) -> JDM, UK 5th gen Celica's & 2nd gen MR2's
3rd gen - 180PS (ACIS) -> JDM, UK 6th gen Celica's, 2nd gen MR2's, Rav4's, Caldina's, Carina's, & Curren.
4th gen - 180PS (Greytop, VVT-i) -> Rav4. 200PS (Redtop, VVT-i) -> 6th gen Celica & 2nd gen MR2. 210PS (Blacktop, Dual VVT-i) -> Altezza.

3S-GTE:
1st gen - 190HP (T-VIS) -> USA, JDM, UK 4th gen Celica's
2nd gen - 200HP (T-VIS) -> USA, JDM, UK 5th gen Celica's & 2nd gen MR2's
3rd gen - 250HP -> JDM, UK 6th gen Celica's & 2nd gen MR2's
4th gen - 260HP -> JDM Caldina

3S-GE -> Later model 3S-GE, 3S-GTE
1ZZ-FE -> 2ZZ-GE

This is far from done, so keep checking back to see what else I add. Anyone who sees a mistake, feel free to correct me!

Taking a break, my eyes hurt. Ow!

Awesome!

t3h s8x

Dang..