Steering Wheel Click

Alright guys I really need your help on this one. I'm befuddled.

This usually only happens when the car has been sitting for a while with the steering wheel straight or crooked. I'll start my car and proceed to back out of my driveway and as I turn the steering wheel I will hear a pop(sometimes loud and sometimes quiet). I've had the sound for quite some time. At first I thought it was my CV axel but I just replaced them. It cant be my tie rods either because the ball joints are all in good shape. It cant be the lower control arm because I just replaced that. It cant be something simple like my lug nuts being loose because I check those on a daily basis. It only pops once too. After it pops I dont hear it again until I leave the car sitting for a long time. It comes from the drivers side. I somewhat feel it on the steering wheel. Just barely. It hasn't affected my driving at all. Its just a popping sound and I'm curious to know what it could be, or if i should be worried.

Hmm that's weird. You prettymuch eliminated most of the reasons you would hear a noise like that. So all 4 tierods are good as in the outter AND inner tierod ends? Have you checked your strut mounts? If those go bad it could cause that noise or even if the bolts holding on your strut are loose it could do that. What kind of ride control are you on? Please dont say cut springs bc thats just unsafe. You say all these parts are new and replaced. Check the torque of all the bolts that were loosened and tightened back up. My CV axle nut came loose on me after replacing a wheel bearing within 120 miles.

Can you re imitate the noise? Or does it happen just that one time after sitting? I know the strut mount is bad in my diamante and if I go farward really quick and slam on the brakes and then go in reverse and slam on the brakes it makes a pop noise. You could also try torquing the engine by putting it in drive. Have one foot on the brakes and hit the gas. Try it in reverse and drive see if the noise comes back.

Or make a video for us. Just trying to throw out some suggestions.

if it's coming from the wheel it's self it's most likely the clockspring mechanism or the blinker arm reset thinggy.. yes that is the technical name for it..

check wheel bearing and also your diff just in case.

First i wanna say "thanks guys"! this information really helped and i feel like i may be closer to figuring out whats wrong with my car.

Hmm i never thought of checking the steering wheel bearings. thats a new one for me. i'll check my diff too. i'll also check my strut mounts and what not.

Also i have a confession to make to all of you... i ride on cut springs on the front. they are lowering springs that have been cut. ive have never had a problem with them besides bottoming out my struts here and there. but believe me when i say that it is quite embarrassing. im currently looking/saving for some coilovers for my car. if you guys know of anyone selling some coilovers please let me know so that i can stop riding these atrocious springs.

it isnt from the steering wheel inside the cabin, the sound is coming directly from the front of the drivers side inside the engine bay.

Also, information i forgot to mention was that the steering wheel only does it after a certain amount of rotations. for example: one full rotation then POP. i dont remember right off the bat how many rotations it was but i will be sure to recreate the scenario and look at those things you guys have mentioned and go from there. ive been incredibly busy for quite some time but i will update with any new discoveries as to why my car makes that sound, and if its important to fix anyways.

Ill bet anything it has to do with the springs up front. early 2000's chevy ventures and grand ams have a common problem with the front springs breaking. First noticeable symptom with those is a popping noise because the spring is actually sliding off the strut. I would pull your front wheels off and check the bottom of your strut where the spring rests and see if there's any clean spots from grinding or shifting springs. And yes definitely get some coilovers. OEM and lowering springs are gone through bunch of tests and are made the length they are for a reason. Cutting, heating, or altering them in any way messes with the science put into the design and can be unsafe for you or anyone around you on the road (worst case scenario.) just my .02

I am currently riding on Rollatuners old NEX SS coilovers. Ive got probably 30k miles on them with no signs of problems or failure yet. Id recommend those to anyone who wants some decent adjustable coilovers for a good price.

Yeah you are actually, probably right. How much are they?

I dont remember where he got them from, but I believe he paid somewhere around 800 for them? I believe he had a promotional code for the website also. You will need to contact him or search the site. Ill see what I can find for ya.

Found these ones for 724 which is considerably cheaper than ksport but im not so sure about the mechanisms.
http://www.prostreetonline.com/pnsku/ss1-ty06.asp

can i get someones opinion on these coilovers?

are you taking your car to the track? if so, go for it, otherwise, don't bother. if you're not satisfied with your stock, go with KYB or Tokico struts and it will be better for your car in the long run.

the only problem is that neither tokico or kyb achieve the drop i want for my car, hence going for coilovers

Go for coilovers, nub.

glad i did.

liek?

How would you know, you dont have coilovers

Meh, bc may have slightly better quality of coilovers but ksport has more support for their parts. Bc also used special sizes of shock bodies so if i needed a different size of shock it would have to be custom made, costing a sizable amount of money. Not to mention ksport has a better warranty and replaceable shocks. You have to send in your shock to be rebuilt with bc. Idk maybe im just biased to ksports since I have them but I've never really had a problem besides the need to be lower.lol