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Forced Induction turboing a 00 celica 1zz

Discussion in 'Powertrain' started by m4tt, Jun 14, 2010.

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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    thanks vortex, i like all advice. ive got the old motor out, but as i go on, i keep finding little things that id rather do without an engine in the way. im changing out my cv joints and then the new engine will be going in.
    BTW my new engine is a 2005 1zz, i rigged up the knock sensor, and i fit my old wirng harness on, i also switched the coolant lines, exhaust manifold, and intake manifold with the new ones. my 10 year old bolt ons look better
    m4tt, Jun 28, 2010
    #31
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    SK149 Well-Known Member

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    lol i broke off the knock sensor twice i thought it was just me thank God i didnt have to buy one its pretty expensive i went to the junk yard and got it off my first motor

    nice thanks for that info
    SK149, Jun 28, 2010
    #32
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    lol the thing is i went from a 2000 to a 2005, the knock sensors completely different, i just soldered the harness to fit, idk if itll work. and i do have friends, i started this group called unknown, its not a race crew, we just work on all our cars together. labor is too expensive.

    I need some help, my axle looks to be shifted to the right some, im not sure if i need to replace it or if i can just set it back in place. i have pics

    [IMG]
    [IMG]
    [IMG]

    its the first three pics in my profile, idk how to post them here:tard:
    http://trdforums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=35
    m4tt, Jun 28, 2010
    #33
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    SK149 Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure it is the same ... My rolla is like that ... I had a similar situation check if the ring is no longer circular that's what happened to mine we reformed it to a circle carefully smacked it in and we were good to go
    SK149, Jun 28, 2010
    #34
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    do i have to take apart the transmission to get to it, the axle is still assembled just not in the tran
    m4tt, Jun 29, 2010
    #35
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    I don't know anyone that can weld or do anything so I'd have to take it somewhere... Nice red X's by the way.
    MacktasticSlick, Jun 29, 2010
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    SK149 Well-Known Member

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    This ... Hope you fix the problem
    SK149, Jun 29, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    thanks for the axle help. the snap ring was still the right shape it just came off, idk, its good now. i have everything hooked up except for the intake because im not sure where the hoses are supposed to be connected. can anyone send pics of the hoses on the intake manifold and throttle body please?

    mattrury@yahoo.com
    m4tt, Jun 30, 2010
    #38
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    so the first part of the plan is done. now im saving for a turbo
    m4tt, Jul 2, 2010
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    DeebsTundra Big Tires :)

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    Explain please.
    DeebsTundra, Jul 3, 2010
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    SaberJ2X Lurk MOAR

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    ^ this
    SaberJ2X, Jul 4, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    im asking for some more advice, i have no power steering. the pump makes a horrible noise, like its sucking in air. i took this pump off my old engine and it worked fine till tonight. is there anything i shouldve done when i put it on, like replace any seals
    m4tt, Jul 5, 2010
    #42
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    DeebsTundra Big Tires :)

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    I haven't priced out turbo parts. So me asking you to explain wasn't me being a dick. It was me wanting some round prices, to see what you were talking about. Which you provided. I'm satisfied.
    DeebsTundra, Jul 6, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    how risky is it to try to tune it yourself, i mean like just boost control and a/f ratio
    m4tt, Jul 6, 2010
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    Ares Active Member

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    ^ What part of south TX are you from? Im from Htown.
    Ares, Jul 7, 2010
    #45
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    alvin
    m4tt, Jul 7, 2010
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    vortex Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately, and *I'm* not trying to be a dick here, this is exactly the same thought process that has left a few that have turbo'd their Corolla with an imploded engine. There is a reason why my car has over 125k boosted miles on it and hasn't had a major problem with it. It's because I spent the time *AND* the money to do it correctly. Sure, you can go cheap routes and put some boost to your car, but you won't come close to the performance you would like nor keep the risk to your engine low by cutting corners.

    Yes, I do agree that you can cut some costs by having a friend or a hook-up on getting some fab work done but to be honest with you that's about the only place you should be cutting corners. Parts for a good working manifold come in about 200-250 bucks and you can even get some prefab work done on some log manifolds and come in around 300-350 bucks depending on where you got it from. As for the IC piping being cheap, it would definitely look cheap as well as offer opportunity for failure if you didn't at least get some decent materials and longer lengths custom bent for your application. As a general rule you should have as few connectors and as few bends as possible in your application to maintain system integrity as well as maintain a stable pressure from compressor to intake.

    Also (not saying this what you were thinking, but) one of the worst "cheap" routes I've seen is when people use crush bent exhaust piping to make IC piping. 1) it's stupid because the inside of those pipes rust within a few months of boosting tossing all kinds of debris into your engine and 2) it does not keep a good flow of air for shit.

    To boost a 1ZZ properly, you need more (from a fuel perspective) than an FPR and an SAFC if you want to do it right and cut risks to your engine over 6-7psi. You *could* get lucky and just so happen to have got the tune just right to creep a little over but even then, you're skating on thin ice. One slight mishap with fuel pressure or a failed injector pulse and it's over.

    The best solution would be a complete fuel system overhaul, properly sized injectors, upgraded sensors and an AEM customized for the car, but keeping in mind the average budget, you wouldn't start there.

    At the very least for fuel you need a higher flow pump (255lph), a return line kit (which requires a new fuel rail, additional steel braided fuel line and connectors), higher volume injectors and an FPR to maintain the pressure in your system. In addition to that, I'd recommend something like the eManage to help do some finer tuning since the ECU can't handle anything over 5psi. While you can get away with just about any voltage clamp to kill your MAP/MAF sensor at 4.67v (so your ECU doesn't wig out) it's a damn good idea to pull some timing as your crossing over 6psi of boost as well as have a method to compensate more injector pulses for more fuel over the ECU limitation.

    A clutch is NECESSARY over 8 psi of boost on a Corolla. The stock clutch begins to slip pretty badly at 7-8 psi so it's worth it to go at least pick up the next level of clutch. A Celica may be able to handle a little more, but I've never tested one out to see.

    As for the Intercooler itself... sure you can go get an eBAY special for cheap, but you'll get what you pay for. It's worth the extra few hundred bucks to pick up a PWR, Garrett or something similar and have it actually drop the temperature on the air rather than look pretty. A cheap intercooler is about as useful as APC stickers on your car.

    For the turbo. I'm sure you can find a turbo out there for 300 and it may work fine, but my $600 T3 Super 60 has never done me wrong so I would stick with what works there. It had to be rebuilt at about 90,000 miles but it lasted me longer than any of the $300 turbo's I've ever seen on some other rides that have blown out the seals around 30-40k.

    Either way, there is a right way to turbo a 1ZZ and a cheap way. To date, even some of those who have tried it the right way have had some failures, but those who have tried to cut corners have had to shell out more money in the end to purchase more parts to make it work "right". That is if their engine survived and they weren't hunting down a block to drop in because it looked like someone dropped a grenade in their engine bay.
    vortex, Jul 10, 2010
    #47
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    KrypticKarma ~2001 Corrizm~

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    ^ Nice write up. If your even thinking of cutting any corners with boost dont do it. If you need a "cheap way" to turbo a car your going to end up blowing your engine up. If your too cheap to boost a car the right way you probably wont be able to afford a new engine either, and that extra 1,500.00 you just dropped in a new engine could have been used to finer tune or buy more quality parts. Just my .02
    KrypticKarma, Jul 10, 2010
    #48
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    so was buying a 20k mile motor a good idea instead of boosting my 180k it cost 1400
    m4tt, Jul 11, 2010
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    KrypticKarma ~2001 Corrizm~

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    Sorry that might have been worded wrong. I think it was good to get a lower mileage engine if your going to boost it. What i meant was if your going to turbo an engine make sure you do everything right and dont skimp out or try to find the easy cheap ways. its all about the tune. You could have an engine with 20k, 50k, or 80k, but if your running cheap parts with a bad tune its a matter of time when it will break down.

    My honest opinion: you have a 180k engine and a 20k engine. Why dont you experiment with the 180k one with boost? find all the parts you need and run it on the older engine until you can fine tune it. Then when it blows up (if it blows up) you can learn from mistakes and move on to the lower mileage engine.
    KrypticKarma, Jul 11, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    i worked on boosted cars before and ive seen what can go wrong. i plan on putting plenty of money into my car. the thing is the crank was turned in my old engine due to spun bearings. i am going to use it to dry fit some parts and see how things go together though
    m4tt, Jul 12, 2010
    #51
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    m4tt, Jul 13, 2010
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    DeebsTundra Big Tires :)

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    Radiator's cool liquid, intercooler's cool air, so as far as I know... no. A radiator is not an intercooler and they cannot be interchanged.
    DeebsTundra, Jul 13, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    ok makes since loll that was stupid
    m4tt, Jul 13, 2010
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    i was thinkin meth injection
    m4tt, Jul 13, 2010
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    SaberJ2X Lurk MOAR

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    ugh...

    it's a big pain in the ass...
    if you REALLLLLLLYYYY
    want some kind of injection based cooling...
    plain water will be the less painless..

    and even then the benefits are not so huge for low boosted cars...
    unless you go for super aggressive water injection depending timings.
    SaberJ2X, Jul 13, 2010
    #56
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    m4tt 2000 celica

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    the thing is im tryin to be a sleeper, front mounts too obvious....is 8psi with a little water injection ok then
    m4tt, Jul 14, 2010
    #57
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    DeebsTundra Big Tires :)

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    Front mount's probably the most efficient due to air flow, unless you have a functional ram air hood and using a top-mount.
    DeebsTundra, Jul 14, 2010
    #58
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    whydontyouchoos KFM

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    +1, i have a friend with a IC supercharched setup on his tundra, painted his IC black and you cant even notice it
    whydontyouchoos, Jul 14, 2010
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    DeebsTundra Big Tires :)

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    I need pictures of this.
    DeebsTundra, Jul 14, 2010
    #60
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