Forced Induction The Dummy's Guide to a Turbo Corolla.

The Dummy's Guide to a Turbo Corolla.

First things first: How does a 4 Stroke Internal Combustion Engine(ICE) work?


A 4 Stroke ICEngine works in 4 stages

Intake Stroke:
This cycle begins by the pulling in of air from the intake manifold and fuel from the fuel tank into the engine cylinder/combustion Chamber.

Compression:
All that happens in this cylce is the compression of the air/fuel mixture.

Power:
The air/fuel mixture in the cylinder is ignited by the spark plug

Exhaust:
Gases created during the ignition of the cylinder contents are scavenged out through the exhaust valves and out into the atmosphere.

WAYS TO INCREASE ENGINE EFFICIENCY AND POWER
There are numerous ways to increase the engine's efficiency. What does it mean to increase the engine's efficiency? Increasing an engines efficiency is equivalent to making the engine do what it was designed to do, better. An engine was designed to make power.
In order to increase an engine's power output, you could
1.) Increase the engines displacement
a.) More cylinders
b.) Stroke the engine

2.) Improve the percentage of the gases burnt in phase 2 of the 4 stroke
ICEngine's cycle
a.) Buy better spark plugs
b.) Buy better ignition coils
c.) Increase the car's electrical signals and systems.
d.) Improve the ignition timing.

3.) Increase how long the intake valves stay open.
a.) Buy better Camshafts with a more aggressive profile.

4.) Increase the air pressure in the cylinders
a.) Superchargers
b.) TurboChargers
c.) Twincharging.

5.) Increase the engine's scavenging abilities
a.) Better exhaust headers
b.) Properly re-engineered exhaust. No, larger exhaust pipes does
NOT = better exhaust scavenging.

6.) Increase engine's rotations per minute(RPM)
a.) Step on the gas pedal
***Although increasing the engine's rpm is supposed to increase power, parasitic loses occur making this a battle of diminishing returns***


Many more ways of increasing the engine's power and efficiency exist, but for the sake of this guide, this will do.

SOOO, you have decided No. 4b is the way you want to increase your 8th Generation Corolla's power huh? Read on. I will give you all the information you will need to boost your corolla and keep it in good working condition for years to come.


Before you decide what you want to do, it is important to know exactly what a turbocharger is and how it works.

A Turbocharger: ***Source: Karim Nice***
When people talk about race cars or high-performance sports cars, the topic of turbochargers usually comes up. Turbochargers also appear on large diesel engines. A turbo can significantly boost an engine's horsepower without significantly increasing its weight, which is the huge benefit that makes turbos so popular!

Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging. This can significantly improve the power-to-weight ratio for the engine.
A turbocharged engine also gets better gas mileage than an equivalent naturally aspirated engine of the same power output as the turbocharged engine.

*In order to achieve this boost, the turbocharger uses the exhaust flow from the engine to spin a turbine, which in turn spins an air pump. The turbine in the turbocharger spins at speeds of up to 150,000 rotations per minute (rpm) -- that's about 30 times faster than most car engines can go. And since it is hooked up to the exhaust, the temperatures in the turbine are also very high.
Turbochargers allow an engine to burn more fuel and air by packing more into the existing cylinders. The typical boost provided by a turbocharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50 percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50 percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, so you might get a 30- to 40-percent improvement instead.

One cause of the inefficiency comes from the fact that the power to spin the turbine is not free. Having a turbine in the exhaust flow increases the restriction in the exhaust. This means that on the exhaust stroke, the engine has to push against a higher back-pressure. This subtracts a little bit of power from the cylinders that are firing at the same time.


The turbocharger is bolted to the exhaust manifold of the engine. The exhaust from the cylinders spins the turbine, which works like a gas turbine engine. The turbine is connected by a shaft to the compressor, which is located between the air filter and the intake manifold. The compressor pressurizes the air going into the pistons.

Inside a turbocharger
The exhaust from the cylinders passes through the turbine blades, causing the turbine to spin. The more exhaust that goes through the blades, the faster they spin.

On the other end of the shaft that the turbine is attached to, the compressor pumps air into the cylinders. The compressor is a type of centrifugal pump -- it draws air in at the center of its blades and flings it outward as it spins.

Too Much Boost?
With air being pumped into the cylinders under pressure by the turbocharger, and then being further compressed by the piston, there is more danger of knock. Knocking happens because as you compress air, the temperature of the air increases. The temperature may increase enough to ignite the fuel before the spark plug fires. Cars with turbochargers often need to run on higher octane fuel to avoid knock. If the boost pressure is really high, the compression ratio of the engine may have to be reduced to avoid knocking.

In order to handle speeds of up to 150,000 rpm, the turbine shaft has to be supported very carefully. Most bearings would explode at speeds like this, so most turbochargers use a fluid bearing. This type of bearing supports the shaft on a thin layer of oil that is constantly pumped around the shaft. This serves two purposes: It cools the shaft and some of the other turbocharger parts, and it allows the shaft to spin without much friction.

There are many tradeoffs involved in designing a turbocharger for an engine. In the next section, we'll look at some of these compromises and see how they affect performance.

One of the main problems with turbochargers is that they do not provide an immediate power boost when you step on the gas. It takes a second for the turbine to get up to speed before boost is produced. This results in a feeling of lag when you step on the gas, and then the car lunges ahead when the turbo gets moving.

One way to decrease turbo lag is to reduce the inertia of the rotating parts, mainly by reducing their weight. This allows the turbine and compressor to accelerate quickly, and start providing boost earlier. One sure way to reduce the inertia of the turbine and compressor is to make the turbocharger smaller. A small turbocharger will provide boost more quickly and at lower engine speeds, but may not be able to provide much boost at higher engine speeds when a really large volume of air is going into the engine. It is also in danger of spinning too quickly at higher engine speeds, when lots of exhaust is passing through the turbine.

Turbochargers provide boost to engines at high speeds. A large turbocharger can provide lots of boost at high engine speeds, but may have bad turbo lag because of how long it takes to accelerate its heavier turbine and compressor. Luckily, there are some tricks used to overcome these challenges.

Most automotive turbochargers have a wastegate, which allows the use of a smaller turbocharger to reduce lag while preventing it from spinning too quickly at high engine speeds. The wastegate is a valve that allows the exhaust to bypass the turbine blades. The wastegate senses the boost pressure. If the pressure gets too high, it could be an indicator that the turbine is spinning too quickly, so the wastegate bypasses some of the exhaust around the turbine blades, allowing the blades to slow down.

Some turbochargers use ball bearings instead of fluid bearings to support the turbine shaft. But these are not your regular ball bearings -- they are super-precise bearings made of advanced materials to handle the speeds and temperatures of the turbocharger. They allow the turbine shaft to spin with less friction than the fluid bearings used in most turbochargers. They also allow a slightly smaller, lighter shaft to be used. This helps the turbocharger accelerate more quickly, further reducing turbo lag.

Ceramic turbine blades are lighter than the steel blades used in most turbochargers. Again, this allows the turbine to spin up to speed faster, which reduces turbo lag.

An intercooler or charge air cooler is an additional component that looks something like a radiator, except air passes through the inside as well as the outside of the intercooler. The intake air passes through sealed passageways inside the cooler, while cooler air from outside is blown across fins by the engine cooling fan.

* The intercooler further increases the power of the engine by cooling the pressurized air coming out of the compressor before it goes into the engine. This means that if the turbocharger is operating at a boost of 7 psi, the intercooled system will put in 7 psi of cooler air, which is denser and contains more air molecules than warmer air.

A turbocharger also helps at high altitudes, where the air is less dense. Normal engines will experience reduced power at high altitudes because for each stroke of the piston, the engine will get a smaller mass of air. A turbocharged engine may also have reduced power, but the reduction will be less dramatic because the thinner air is easier for the turbocharger to pump.


Now that I've covered the basics of turbos and turbocharging it's time to put together a list of stuff you need to decide and stuff you need to do.

TO DO LIST:
The first thing to do, is decide what turbo works best for your power needs and to do this, you will need to know when you want your turbo to be at full boost.
My recommendations for an 8th Generation Corolla with a 1zzfe (non - swapped) engine, purposed for Circuit/grip/road course/street racing, is a turbo that will be fully spooled up as early as 3000rpm. Of course you could always just purchase an EMS that has anti-lag capabilities and not have to worry about turbo lag, but where's the street creed and genius in that right?

In order to know which turbo would be able to do this, you must be able to read a "compressor map".

COMPRESSOR MAPS: How to ***Source: Engine Logistics***
To be able to read a compressor map for your specific application will require you to calculate the volume and mass of air moving through your engine.

Volumetric Flow Equation:
This equation is for finding the volume of air going into the engine. An 8th Generation Corolla drawns in 109.476597 cubic inches of air. It is a 4 stroke engine with the intake valves on each cylinder opening once every 2 revolutions. So, for every 2 revolutions the engine takes in 109.48 cu.in of air. How many pounds of air is that? That depends on the pressure and temperature of the air in the intake manifold, but the volume is always 109.48 cu.in every 2 rpm.

volume of air (cu ft/min)= (engine rpm x engine cid) / (1728 x 2)
Volume of air = (3000rpm x 109.48) / (1728 x 2) = 95.04cu.ft/min of air
That's how much air a 1ZZ-FE takes in at 3000rpm.

Next up is the ideal gas law
PV = nRT where,
p = absolute air pressure(Gauge pressure + Atmospheric pressure).
The gauge that's referred to here is a boost gauge.
V = Volume of air
n = Related to air molecules as an indication of Mass of Air
R = a constant number
T = Absolute Temperature of air in engine(Temperature in Fahrenhiet + 460).


The Ideal Gas Law can be rearranged to calculate any of the variables. For example, if you know the pressure(14.7), temperature(approximately 535), and volume of air(95.04cu.ft/min of air) you can calculate the pounds of air to determine to turbo size needed:

n=PV/ (RT To get the pounds of air(lbs/min)
n(lbs/min)= [P x V x 29] / (10.73 x T) = 7.06 lbs/min of air for a 1zzfe engine
at 3000rpm in a perfect world.


Unfortunately, we do not live in a perfect world, so the actual amount is less than that due to the fact that the cylinders still have some exhaust gases in them. The ideal amount of air at 3000rpm /(divided by) The actual amount at 3000 rpm is called the Volumetric Efficiency of the engine at that rpm.
For the average basic stock high performance 4 cylinder double overhead cam this number is around 0.85 (or 85%). Things like big valves, big cams, ported heads, custom intakes and intake manifolds, tunnel rams, etc. can get this number closer to 1.0 (or 100%). Due to ram effect some normal aspirated engines/vehicles fitted with tunnel ram can get over 100% at certain rpms. Seeing as a 1ZZ-FE is not an high performance engine we will use .75.

So the actual is 7.06 lbs/min x .75 = 5.3 lbs/min at 3000rpm. Now that we found out the 1ZZ-FE's naturally aspirated air intake mass, lets find out it's mass at 5lbs of boost in the intake manifold.
To do this we use the following numbers
P = 19.7(Atmospheric 14.7 + 5lbs of boost).
T = 585(Atmospheric 125 F in intake manifold + 460)
V = 95.04

Therefore, n = [P x V x 29] / (10.73 x T) = 9.28lbs/min of air in a perfect world. Actual is 9.28 x (an hypothetical).75 V.E. = appx 7lbs/min of air, at 3000rpm with 5lbs of boost.

Compressor

The compressor is the part of the turbocharger that compresses air and pumps it into the intake manifold. Air molecules get sucked into the rapidly spinning compressor blades and get flung out to the outside edge. When this happens, the air molecules get stacked up and forced together. This increases their pressure.



It takes power to do this. This power comes from the exhaust side of the turbo, called the Turbine. Not all of the power that comes from the turbine goes into building pressure. Some of the power is used up in heating the air. This is because we cannot build a perfect machine. If we could, all of the power would go into building pressure. Instead, because of the design of the compressor, the air molecules get "beat up", and this results in heat. Just like rubbing your hands together will warm your hands due to the friction between your hands, the friction between the compressor and the air and between the air molecules themselves will heat up the air.

Compressor efficiency is determined by dividing the amount of power that goes into building pressure by the total power put into the compressor.

For example, a 70% efficient compressor means that 70% of the power put into the compressor is used in building air pressure. The other 30% of the power is used heating up the air. That is why we like high efficiency compressors because more of the power is being used on building pressure and less is used heating up the air. Turbos, Paxtons, and Vortechs are all centrifugal superchargers. They are called this because the centrifugal force of flinging the air molecules from the center of the housing to the outside edge is what builds air pressure. The maximum efficiency of these kinds of superchargers is usually between 70% and 80%. Roots blowers like the 6-71, work differently with a 40% lower efficiency. When you try to build lots of boost with a blower you have to put in a lot of power and more than half of that power is heating up the air instead of raising pressure.

How Hot is the Air Coming out of the Compressor?
The equation used to calculate the discharge temperature is:

Tout = {Tin + Tin x [-1+(Pout/Pin)to the power of 0.263]}/efficiency
Hypothetically, the inlet temperature is 70 deg F, the suction pressure is -0.5 psig (a slight vacuum), the discharge pressure is 7 psig, and the efficiency is 72%. What is the discharge temperature?

Tin= 70 deg F + 460 = 530 deg R
Pin= -0.5 psig + 14.7 = 14.2 psia
Pout= 7 psig + 14.7 = 21.7 psia
Pout/Pin = 21.7/14.2 = 1.53(this is the compression ratio)

Tout = 530 + {530 x (-1+1.53 to the power of (0.263) )}/.72(efficiency) = 618.3 deg R - 460 = 158.3 deg F.

At a mere 7lbs of boost with an inlet temperature of 70 deg F, the theoretical outlet temperature is 158.3 deg F

Since turbo manufacturers use a industry standard temperature and pressure, we must convert our actuals into standards.

Corrected flow = {actual flow x (Tin/545)to the power of (0.5)}/(Pin/13.949)
Since Tin = 530
Pin = 14.2 psia

Corrected flow = 6.77lbs/min. Mark that point on the bottom of your compressor map, and move on to the next calculation.

The next step is to figure out the compression ratio, using absolute pressures. Using our example, we had 5 psi boost in the intake manifold. Let's suppose the pressure drop from the turbo outlet to the manifold is 3 psi; so the actual compressor outlet pressure is 3 + 5 = 8 psig. The air pressure is 0 psig, but since the turbo is sucking air to itself the pressure at the inlet is lower than that.

Let's say it is -0.5 psig at the inlet. Then the compression ratio, Pout/Pin is:
(8 + 14.7)/(14.2) = 1.60

Mark this on the left(vertical) side of the compressor map and draw a line horizontally to meet the other line.

In order to pick a turbo that will provide you 5lbs of boost as early as 3000rpm and retain 60% efficiency till 7000 rpm, you must now follow these steps replacing 3000 rpm where applicable, with 7000. Draw your second pair of lines on the same compressor map. The turbo that provides 70% efficiency at 3000 and approximately 60% efficiency at 7000rpm is the one you want.

......Now, the easy part.
Since you have done your research and found out that the above stated compression ratio of 1.60, graphed against a corrected flow of 6.77lbs/min can only mean one thing.
The biggest turbo in the '"small turbo category" or the smallest turbo in the medium sized turbo category.

All other turbos just don't spool up that early, or if they do won't provide you boost all the way up to 7000rpm.
Two turbos that fit this bill perfectly are
1.) HKS GT2530
2.) Garret GT2854R

These are the Compressor maps for the two turbos respectively.

HKS GT2530 (Very popular for twin turbo Nissan Skyline applications). Surely you can find a used one out there somewhere.


Garret GT2854R


And the beautiful thing about these turbos is that they are already internally wastegasted. The not so beautiful thing about them is that they are limited in max power output(appx 315hp for hks, less for garret) AND they are relatively expensive.

Believe it or not, picking the right turbo for your application is the hardest part of turbocharging your corolla, if you are taking the installation to a professional installer. Once the turbo has been picked, it's time to determine what a turbo will do to your corolla as a consequence of the additional power.

Supporting Modifications:
As I mentioned earlier, adding a turbocharger to your normally aspirated car will increase the amount of air and fuel that is being demanded by the engine. The air aspect we just covered. Next up is the fuel aspect.

Meeting Your Fueling Needs
They are only 2 major aspects of fuel delivery that we need to worry about for this specific application, which are
1.) Fuel Injectors
2.) Fuel Pump

Others would argue that changing the corolla's returnless fuel system to a return type would make for a more efficient turbo setup, but if you aren't planning on putting over 380hp to the ground, this is of no concern to you.

Fuel Injectors:
The fuel injectors that come with an early generation 1zz-fe, i.e., a 1zzfe from a 98 - 02 Toyoto Corolla, were designed for good fuel economy and good torque and that means that they have a limited performance level.
In order for us to figure out what size of fuel injectors that can meet our horsepower needs, we need to know the amount of power we are shooting for. In the example illustrated by our article, at 7lbs of boost, using the above mentioned turbochargers will result in approximately 190 - 230 Wheel Horsepower(whp). We will assume that our ultimate goal is 300whp which is about 350bhp. Other things we must know in order to calculate the proper injector size include

B.S.F.C = .62 for turbocharged vehicles
Duty Cycle = .80(80%) **This refers to when, during the injectors cycle the injector will max out**
Number Injectors = 4
Number of Cylinders = 4
Number of same size injectors per Cylinder = 1
***This calculation automatically assumes that the fuel pressure at the fuel rail is appx 40 - 45 PSIG***

The formula for calculating the injector size in cc/min is
(BHP x B.S.F.C)/(No. of Injectors X .80) = (350 x .62)/(4 x .80) = 67.81LBS/HR x 10.25 = 696cc/min injectors each.

For safety's sake and leaving a little cushion just in case, The proper injector size for this application would be 810cc/min injectors.

These injectors are sold here:
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1196
For $320 USD/4 injectors.

Fuel Pump:
This part is relatively easy. All you need is a fuel pump that can keep up with the increase fuel demand, and the O.E.M 155 LPH fuel pump will not do. A brand new 255 LPH fuel pump is in order. This pump is longer than the O.E.M fuel pump, so you willneed to modify the bottom of the housing that holds the fuel pump in place. It is also populated on the web and in person that this pump comes with a loud annoying whine, but with an aftermarket exhaust installed, and the fuel pump tucked away inside the fuel tank, this isn't an issue at all, because you won't hear any whining.

This fuel pump is sold here:
http://treperformance.com/i-133158-toyota-corolla-walbro-255-lph-fuel-pump-1985-1993.html
For $99 USD + Shipping.

Now that you have covered delivery of fuel to the car and you are sure that your fuel system can meet the demand your engine will be throwing at it, it's time to tackle the cooling system of your car. Intuitively with more power comes more heat and you must increase the cooling ability of your vehicle. Simply changing to a racing coolant will be a waste of money and won't even cut the bill.

Heat Control:
You need to upgrade your cooling system to keep the heat levels in check and for an 8th Generation Toyota corolla, this is best achieved by purchasing 5 items.
1.) Mishimoto Racing Radiator
http://www.mishimoto.com/toyota-corolla-performance-aluminum-radiator-03-07.html
For $320 + Shipping.

2.) Mishimoto High Pressure Radiator Cap
This comes with the purchase of the radiator at no charge.

3.) Mishimoto Universal Automatic Transmission Cooler (For Auto Trans Corollas Only).
http://streetrays.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=30032
For $68 USD + shipping.

4.) Samco HP Universal Flexi-silicone hose or equivalent
http://www.sporthoses.com/parts/straight_superflex/
For approximately $120 + Shipping.

5.) Mishimoto Front Mount Inter-Cooler(FMIC)
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-intercooler-large-black.html
For $340 + Shipping.

Other Unrelated Supporting Modifications:
Better CV axles. No one makes this specifically for the 98 - 02 Toyota corolla, SOOOO, you will have to convience either
1.) GATOR RACING: http://www.gatorracingaxles.com/
For approximately $500 - $600

OR

2.) THE DRIVESHAFT SHOP: http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=728
For $500 - 600.
It's very important to call them first to know what it entails. You may have to take measurements using the diagram on the above webpage and fax/email it to them to get a quote.

More Horsepower = More Speed, so therefore, More Speed = A need for bigger stopping power. To that end, Ksport has big brake kits for 8th Generation Corollas in abundance, although they are quite pricey.

http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/brake_kits_detail.asp?product_id=bk07
Part No: BKTY090-611SO
For $1,600.00
Use this page to find a dealer near you
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/dealer.asp

You do NOT need to convert your rear drums to rotors.


Seeing as this guide is not here to teach you how to make a Super GT Corolla, these are all the supporting modifications that you will require to keep your Corolla in good working condition.

Things you need to make the actual turbo work:


To be continued.....

Information overload. Good read though.

Nice copy paste. Source?

I'd go with the http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT25/GT2560R_466541_1.htm

cause realistically... I don't rev the poor 1zz a lot... and being small it should boost fast

1zz can take reving well.. statistics (toyota) say that it can run at 4000 rpms for long periods of time without wearing it down exponentially.

truth be told, although the engine was made for gas efficiency, imo, the engine take boost alright..

An engine built for economy pushed past its limits FTW.

Bravo! Can't wait for part 2!

Links or never happened...

thanks for the useful info

Mack man needs to read this shyzz. lol

That has nothing to do with the corolla, just talks about turbo functionality on a 4 cyl engine.

So here is my "Dummy's guide to turboing a corolla"

Plain and simple. one rule really.



Unless the car came with a turbo, don't do it. Save that money towards towards a better faster safer car.

Yeah this.

lol nice

You are supposed to move to the nearest cc/min injector that is being made. As per my calculations, there aren't any 696cc/min injectors made, so I jumped it up to 810cc/min. I didn't use 750cc/min because it was too close cut and it's better to use injectors that are too big than to use ones that are too small, so I stepped it up one. I calculated a 500bhp for you, not sure if you make more or not and arrived at 996cc/min. The nearest size to that is the 1090 at about 43.5PSIG. Now again I am not sure what your boost pressure is, but it sounds like you are boosting above 1bar, and that means your feul pressure would be higher, more like 55PSIG and Injectors that are capable of 1090cc/min flow rate at 43.5PSIG are almost always capable of 1200 at 55PSIG.

To Verify this I made Calculations for 1000bhp, and came up with 1811cc/min injectors at 55PSIG. This is verified by Looking at the 1000hp honda covered by modified Magazine at this page: http://www.modified.com/features/modp-1006-1993-honda-civic-vx/2004-rsx-type-s.html. This project is said to use 1800cc/min injectors.

You could also triple verify by using the automated calculator at this page to arrive at the exact same numbers: http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx#Find_HP_Value_of_Selected_Injectors

The formula above, just like it says, uses a 43.5 PSlG, which is too low for 1000hp but perfectly fine for 400bhp, so whilst calculating the formula I adjusted it to 55PSIG.

Thanks for picking that up. I probably should go back up and add that to it.

Drivetrain loss cannot be accounted for by percentages. It has to be measured, but for approximate analysis 530bhp seems just about right.

I agree with you. 550 would be enough but everyone must realize it will only be enough if you run your system at 55PSIG. This Guide focuses on using the system at 43.5PSIG, and at that pressure, you need at least 750.

It all comes down to what fuel pressure the car owner plans to run the injectors at.

Another thing to consider is that these calculations take into account the fact that this hypothetical corolla won't convert to return Feul System. That means smaller injectors will end up starving the engine of fuel, with dangerous conquences, and if you notice, I never mentioned the inclusion of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or any fuel pressure regulator upgrade for that matter. That means that as the boost pressure increases, so will the fuel pressure, but the OEM fuel pressure regulator will not increase fuel pressure, potentially starving the engine, thats another reason the injector size seems so unnecessarily large, but it isn't. The huge injectors will be able to supply fuel even when the fuel pressure stays low at high boost pressure.

Doesn't your car have a return fuel system? I ask because I am not sure and didn't you upgrade your fuel pressure regulator to an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator?

WOW I always thought intercoolers had water in them

Thanks for the info good for anyone who is into the "tuning" scene.

Anybody have a low-down on this:

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...or-turbo-kit-toyota-corolla-9802-p-42982.html

I have seen that kit before. In all honesty I think that kit is where everyone that wants to safely turbo their 1zz-fe corolla should start, and then use this guide to upgrade to bigger and better things.

I haven't finished the guide yet, but ..... yeah.

Vivid racing is a world trusted and reliable company, but a turbo kit that uses stock internals I just can't trust. The 1zz-fe in our corollas are so freaking weak, I cannot justify adding so much power to it, I mean, when you drive your car hard you feel the engine dying and suffering, and this is before turbo.

it up to the owner of the car how well they take care of the car and such and when i had my corolla(99k miles) i never had any oil leak or suffering for power,i always use good oil(royal purple) and change oil on my transmission every year since i be take my car to the speedway every season.

people who boost stock corolla gets carried away and starts to boost over 8psi and the motor gives out.i think the only way you can boost a stock corolla over 10psi and not getting blown is a great dyno tune it tells you how many a/f,timing,knocks and etc.