Engine Top Horsepower

The underdrive lighter crank pulley will definitely help, no matter what. The stock pulley is already much lighter than the flywheel where all the power is transmitted. The underdrive pulley loses less power to alternator, power steering and A/C. Its lighter weight causes even less resistance to engine accelleration and decelleration, which is desirable. A faster decellerating engine makes it easier to shift with less strain on tranny's synchros as you don't have to wait as long for RPM to drop and match your upshift RPM...
However, there is some concern about long term engine reliability as the aftermarket pulley has no harmonic balancer to reduce torsional vibrations which can be detrimental to bearings and oil pump.
By the way, Blk03Corolla, can you tell me about your JP downpipe? Did it bolt up to the header's pivot joint, does it have 1cat and 2 resonators, and does it end past the axle and bolt up to the rear muffler section, like the stock exhaust?

It has 2 resonators, 1 high flow cat, bolts directly to the header and then back at the axle. Very nice peice. Adds a very nice tone to the car as well.

you must be in LaLa land with RollaS if you think you have that stuff.you still can't beat me if you had all that + more. Do you even race are just brag? I will smoke you anyday,with your rice for fuel

HEY! shutup... (idiot) :roll:

You must be RollaS boy friend. don't try to stick up for him just because he gives you his stick bitccccch :!: :twisted:

im not gonna bother fightin with u cuz it'll go nowhere since i cant kick ur ass over the internet... i just hope u realize that by comin on here and talkin smack ur showin everybody on here what a pathetic fool u are

thats it im not gonna say anything else on the subject cuz i wanna keep things civil

ok thats fair 8)

Tyler,

Spoke to Eric at JP the other day about lightweight flywheels. He has one on his Solara and says he didn't notice a drop in the RPM's. I asked him if he was into speed shifting, and he replied that he just shifts normally (doesn't drop the clutch). He figures with 271 to the ground with a stock clutch probably wouldn't be a good idea.

One other thing about the JP header and Midpipe combo, my "lag" I had from taking off from the stopped position has virtually vanished for those who are wondering. I haven't even had the ES mounts installed yet.

I would highly recommend for all who just got the header, get the midpipe.

And for those wondering I do have a manual...

Yea I have pretty much made up my mind that I will go with the max series 6 puck rps clutch and either the rps flywheel or fidanza not sure which one yet got to look into that some more. And yea the mid pipe is amazing and I would recommend it to anyone as well. It complements the setup very nicely

don't go for too light of a flywheel...........stock is 16 get something about 9 or 10 lbs. too light will cause a greater drop in rpms. My TRD flywheel is 10lbs

Exactly, except for one thing... The 1ZZ does not have a balancer since it's internally balanced. I noticed a huge difference when I put the UR crank pulley on, it's litterally 1/4 of the weight of the stock pulley and almost an inch smaller :shock:

I have a ton of pics of the install and am going to make a "how to" whenever my other computer gets fixed so that I can upload pics :?

RPS only makes a flywheel for the 2ZZ, not for the 1ZZ Tyler. So you'll have to go with Fidanza.

Really hmmm arent the clutches the same for the 1zz and 2zz? Why would the flywheels be any different. Am I missing something?

You are right, the clutches are the same but the flywheels are not the same since it's a different motor.

Your choices of flywheels are Fidanza, UR, Toda, MWR, and a couple more. Talk to the Celica guys about brands but I know that you want a Chromoly one, it's the strongest and still hella light :wink:

Actually, the 1ZZ FE does have an elastomer vibration damper (harmonic balancer) on the stock pulley. The heavy outer metal inertia ring (where the belts rides) sits on a bonded rubber band over the pulley's core and controls crankshaft torsional vibrations. Internal balancers control inertia forces... A fluid damper would be nice;http://www.fluidampr.com/torsional_vibration.htm
As far as RPM drops, I don't think the lighter pulley would cause a noticeable increase in off throttle engine decelleration... A lighter flywheel would have more influence. More RPM drop is not a bad thing. It certainly won't make it harder to reach redline. It's good to have some flywheel effect for driveability though... So 10 lbs sounds reasonable, as RollaS mentioned.

Ok, so I was a little off. I thought that you meant the 1ZZ had one of those huge fluid ones on there which is not true.

Do you think it's enough to throw the engine out of balance without the stock pulley? I ask cause I have the UR pulley on now and it's really nice, I love the increase in speed and revving :twisted:

Does the UR pulley make that much of a difference on the 1zz? Cuz if it does, i might have to get one if it doesn't screw up the engine. And Apc--you dont count for the quickest 1zz/NA.....well you count, but I am just talking about minor bolt-ons
You cant tell me that 15.897 is bad for a corolla with the only true hp mods at the time was AEM Short Ram Intake, Custom Axle Back, and Throttle Body Coolant Bypass. i will get you guys some new track times on tuesday. I am hoping to get it into the 15.7's

The stock elastomer damper pulley doesn't balance the engine but it does absorb crankshaft torsional vibrations caused by sequential torque spikes which can have a hamering effect on oil pump and main bearings, shortening their life. UR and ASP underdrive aluminum pulley are well balanced and their light weight actually reduces vibration causing inertia. Some 4 cylinder cars don't have an OEM vibration damper but they are essential on engines with more cylinders.
According to Unorthodox Racing:
4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

5) "Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?"

Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.

The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.

Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications. The Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not using our pulley, using the stock crank pulley.

These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:

1) The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail.

2) Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.

3) Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.

4) This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.

5) Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.

Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:

1) Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.

2) If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.

3) For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.

4) Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.

If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.

6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"

This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is that our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the total service life you can expect from your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.

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The stock elastomer damper pulley doesn't balance the engine but it does absorb crankshaft torsional vibrations caused by sequential torque spikes which can have a hamering effect on oil pump and main bearings, shortening their life. UR and ASP underdrive aluminum pulley are well balanced and their light weight actually reduces vibration causing inertia. Some 4 cylinder cars don't have an OEM vibration damper but they are essential on engines with more cylinders.
According to Unorthodox Racing:
4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

5) "Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?"

Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.

The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.

Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications. The Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not using our pulley, using the stock crank pulley.

These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:

1) The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail.

2) Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.

3) Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.

4) This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.

5) Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.

Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:

1) Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.

2) If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.

3) For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.

4) Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.

If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.

6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"

This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is that our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the total service life you can expect from your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.

The stock elastomer damper pulley doesn't balance the engine but it does absorb crankshaft torsional vibrations caused by sequential torque spikes which can have a hamering effect on oil pump and main bearings, shortening their life. UR and ASP underdrive aluminum pulley are well balanced and their light weight actually reduces vibration causing inertia. Some 4 cylinder cars don't have an OEM vibration damper but they are essential on engines with more cylinders.
According to Unorthodox Racing:
4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

5) "Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?"

Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.

The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.

Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications. The Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not using our pulley, using the stock crank pulley.

These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:

1) The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail.

2) Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.

3) Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.

4) This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.

5) Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.

Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:

1) Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.

2) If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.

3) For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.

4) Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.

If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.

6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"

This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is that our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the total service life you can expect from your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.

lol yep. Server is laggy in the morning

Check out my "new track times" post in this forum

Wow i thought this thread died along time ago. It was like 3 pages or something last time I saw it. WOW it grew. Nice times btw wi rolla.

NICE TIMES?!?!?!
I am quite disappointed at my times.
The time in my sig (15.897) was when I didnt have motor mounts and the jp header. my 1/4 mile got worse by .3 sec, but i think it was because of the hot/sticky conditions at the track.
I agree that the time in my sig is nice, but the time on my new post (16.104) is disappointing, especially with the 2 new mods.
GAWD, I need a midpipe/unichip........then i will expect to pull in 15.4's or better

I dont know about better than 15.4 because bzzsan only ran 14.8 with his supercharged set-up. You need to get the Supercharger especially seeing you have just about everything else. Then you will be running low 14's. Especially seeing you can get it for 2500 shipped now it is definitly worth it.

got the header, midpipe, and motor mounts on today......cool, to say the least :twisted:

Now you need to go to the track and see what you run.

for those who wonder.. i went to the track and i ran a 15.78 @ 86 or something like that. In my defense... that time is on a stock fuel system running lean, at 88 degree weather, with a turbo that blows oil into the intake, on 6.5psi, with an automatic, cargo in the trunk, no power braking, spare tire on board, balding front tires, and with a 200 lb driver. Once a few of those prolbems get fixed...should run a bit better. If anyone is interrested in buying my kit from me...i'm seriously thinking about selling it...or if someone wants to trade their car for mine, i'd consider that as well. I wanna sell my car and get an MR2 spyder...hard to do with a turbo on board...sooo like $2500 and i'll include absoultly everything including full exhaust....even the guages and guage pillar...

Crovax, did you run at Moroso, out on B-line? I used to go there all the time and run the track.

My s/c should be here ANY DAY now :? It shipped from Ted on the 13th so... I should be like 11th on your guys top 10 list :wink:

Any other new times or power???