Engine Synthetic engine oil

Synthetic engine oil

I had an interesting conversation with a high-performance engine builder today. They build drag race, short-track stock car and hi-po street motors, do balancing, blueprinting, flow bench......in other words, the whole magilla.
I asked him which oil he recommended in his engines.
He said that they did some tests about 3 years ago. A stock car engines runs about 2000 laps and is then rebuilt. He has a real good understanding of these engines and the "normal wear" encountered. He does about 150 engines a year, and got the help of the owners to do a test. A third on dino oil, a third on Mobil 1 and a third on a special, high-priced, synthetic race oil (make unknown). He made the following statement.
After 2000 laps, all engines using synthetic oil showed less than 1/50th of the wear of the engines using dino oil.
He also said the difference in the two synthetics tested was unmeasurable.
At present, the only oil he recommends is synthetic, and he runs Mobil 1 in his race car and all his personal vehicles.

been using mobil 1 for 35k miles :wink:

I've been preaching M1 since this forum started. I ran Red Line previously, and I believe it is superioir, but not for the price and hassle. M1 is available everywhere and meets ALL warranty requirements.

Do you guys use M1 5-30w?

I do.

me too

thats good wat brand of oil filter do you use with ur M1 RollaS

deals on mobil1!

Target
3.84 a quart, regular price, YMMV some stores do not carry it or the price is not this low. This is from the Montclair, CA store.

Walmart
~19 for 5 quart jug, regular price

Costco
various weights
~24 for 6 quart case, regular price.

i was using Toyota filters but now that i saw the post on oil filters i might end up changing.

dude iv'e been asking about the filter for the mobil 1
many moons ago wahhhhh

ok i guess i'll use the mobil filter i have in the basement

do you have to flush the engine to go to a synthetic? just asking 'cuz they told me I had to have the tranny flushed in order to change it to synthetic.

Who told you this? Your engine oil does not affect your tranny. That's why you have tranny fluid. Sounds to me you need to start taking your car to someone else.

he means they have to flush the tranny fluid in order to change your transmission fluid to synthetic

Yes, I guess I could have made it a little more clear. I'm glad I'm not that gullable. Well maybe I should ask them if I need my muffler belt changed at 30,000 miles? Anyway, so does anyone know if I need the engine flushed?

What small amount of dino oil that may be left in the pan won't hurt anything when switching to synthetic.

I have been using M1 for as long as I can remember. 5W-30 with an OEM filter for the Matrix every 5k..

I agree...Synthetic oil is compatible with dino oil, and a flush is only needed when you get long-term sludge build-up, which won't happen if you use synthetic and change it regularly. I use Amsoil synthetic 5w30 in engine with Fram Tough Guard synthetic glass and cellulose filter (98% SPE), Amsoil Series 2000 synthetic 75W-90 gear lube in manual tranny (no flush needed either) and Amsoil synthetic ATF in power steering.
'Mobil 1' is also an excellent and genuine "group IV" synthetic oil.

I was just thinking, if synthetic oil is so good, why doesn't everyone use it? If you think about it, engines in all vehicles of any kind are essentially "heat pumps". They generate a lot of heat so maybe synthetic oil will help reduce wear at hotter temperatures in the long run. Why are there still regular motor oil around and why do people keep insisting on using cheap regular oil? Especially now when I have the supercharger on my car, wouldn't it be better to run synthetic?

Because, a lot of people just don't care and/or do not even know what synthetic oil is. Also, dino juice can be bought for as little as a $1 a quart. True synthetic is usually upwards of $5 or more per quart. Even for someone who understands what synthetic is, it may not be worth it. Most people's thinking?......"oil is oil, right?"

i got a quesiton. i've been running for about 27k miles on regular good ol penzoil oil and now i want to finally swtich to synthetic.

do i need to flush something?

i want to know too

with only 27k, u should be alright switching straigth over to synthetic and not haveta flush anything unless u know u have sludge build up

you guys were talking about M1 synthetic oil but is castrol full synthetic oil just the same? and for a stock automatic corolla with like 120 miles driven daily would it really matter if i use dino instead of synthetic?

well i know the main selling point for me to go to synth oil from dyno oil is that the oil changes are actually in longer intervals. i actually dont have a problem withj doing an oil change at 7500 miles with the M1 oil but on dyno, i'd be doing it every 3k miles.

Yes, a 7500 mile interval is ok. I wouldn't go any longer than that, as that's the maximum allowable mileage Toyota recommends. Personally, I change it every 5k, but that's just me. I don't use M1 so I can go longer in bewteen oil changes..... I use it for the added protection it provides.

Hey guys,

I use Mobil 1 5w-30 during the winter months and Mobil 1 10w-30 during the summer months. I change it every 5000 miles. And I use Mobil 1 oil filters.

So far, everything is great.

Mobil 1 is superior to all other Synthetic oils except Amsoil, but for me, it is not worth using Amsoil when I can get Mobil 1 at my local wallmart.

Whatever you do, do not use FRAM filters. They are the worst. They are made of cardboard inside to hold everything in place. Cardboard with hot oil???? not for me thanks.

-Mario

has anyone tried the kandn gold filters? im using one now with mobil one. i hope to keep this engine going for along time.

u don't have to flush the engine when u change to synthetic oil, it won't hurt a thing

the only downside to running synthetic oil is the cost, it is superior to normal oil in all other aspects... it flows better, lasts longer transfers heat better etc...

Why do you change the weight for summer and winter?


Also on another note... M1 may cost more... but you're lengthening the life of your engine and you can also go longer intervals between oil changes. I'd say it's well worth it. BTW, i use M1 as well =D w/ OEM Totyota Filters every 5k

I use 5w-30 during the winter months because in NJ, the temp goes below 0 C.

During the summer (above 0 C) I use 10w-30 because I don't need the protection of a 5w oil for those temps. Also, the lesser the difference between both ranges of weights of the oil(5w-30, 10w-30), the better it will handle shearing stress. As a rule of thumb, you want to keep the numbers as close as possible.

-Mario