2001 (8th gen) KSport vid

2001 (8th gen) KSport vid

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A2vEOgKkoQ" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A2vEOgKkoQ</a>

Nice and stiff.

Hope to see that in action.

lol

it looks like i'm humping my car...

...i'm not ashamed of that

hahaha thats funny. great vid.

wow you weren't kidding. It's a frickin rock. LOL

Very nice, i can't wait to get a day off so i can instal mine instead of catching dust on my kitchen floor...
I have a question for you though. Why did you install the camber adjustment so it point to the outside corner of the car instead of perpendicular to the axis of the car like every body does? Just wondering why cuz if it was to adjust caster angle, wouldn't you benefit more by having the top of the strut to the rear of the camber plate instead of the front?

i was perplexed at first, but after installing it and setting it like the way you described it, the camber angle was waaaay off..... so i set it to the setting you see on the vid. i know it looks weird from the top of the strut. umm to be honest, i'm having a hard time describing this, lemme know if this wasn't specific enough for you. i want to understand this just as much as you do...

replys welcomed!!!!

<br />
ohh yeah, what do you mean by everybody? you mean to say, you've seen other 8th gen corollas with the ksports upclose? <br />
<br />
if you check out the camber angle on my pics, they're pretty straight. so please let me know what my benefits are to having a diff camber adjustment. is it better grip/traction? i'm confused.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.vvti.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12528" target="_blank">http://www.vvti.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12528</a><br />
there are pics on that thread with my k-sports. my steering wheel is turned a little bit. that's why the wheel isn't straight.

How low did you go on the height? I dont want to go that low as Ill probably rub. What is the minimum drop on those coilovers?

Hahaha that's awesome. I'm so jealous.

hey tommyboy,

if it sounded like i was bustin your balls, i wasn't. i'm completely ignorant when it comes to suspension. but yeah, i read your post 10 times just to understand it and you wrote caster and camber. 2 things!!! anyway, just got my car back from the shop from an alignment and yes, the caster as well as the camber are way off. during the install, my buddy and i just eyeballed the way it looked, and at first that's what it looked like. but now that positioning thing on the top of the strut is in the center.

Everybody!!! I Have Spec Sheets Of My Alignment!!! We Were Waaaay Off!!!

Lol
Lol
Lol
Lol

WE = myself and my friend installing the ksports

dangit.. i can't do all CAPS?

looking for the link?

This is what i mean by everybody else are puting them perpendicular to the axis of the car
http://vvti.net/forums/showthread.p...ighlight=ksport

look at post number 56 you'll see what im talking about. It's not just for ksport on 8th gen, every camber adjustment i ever saw was installed that way

http://www.billzilla.org/sprinterbay.jpg

http://www.billzilla.org/strut86top.jpg

This is on an AE86

The CAMBER angle on a car is the difference between the top and the bottom of the tires on the same axle. If you have negative camber, the top of the tires on that axle are closer together than the bottom, positive is the opposite. The camber needs to be as straight as posible when driving in a straight line. While cornerring, you can benefit from negatif camber on the outside tire and positif on the inside, the benefit from negative camber on all 4 tires for a street car is better than positive, so you will almost never see a good street car with positive camber, but as it is with a lot of things in the car busines, it's always a trade off between straight line grip and corner grip. With to much camber you will use the inside or the outside of your tire treads, dependig if you camber is positive or negative. With a McPherson strut, the only way to adjust the camber is either with the bolts, down where the strut connect to the tab or by moving the top of the strut in our out. Now with lowered car and Mcpherson suspension, the lenght of the strut is reduced so you have to move the top of it closer to the tire to counterbalance the effect, that's why you can slide the top of your strut on the lateral axis of the car, that's why you see every body else puting the plate folowing that axis.

Now with CASTER angle... this is the angle of the strut compared with the ground when you are looking at the side of you car. Positive caster angle is when the top of your strut is behind the wheel or when the wheel is moved forward.

Now it gets a little more complicated, with a strut being straight down (no CASTER), when you turn the wheels, CAMBER doesn't change. Lets exagerate things a bit and put your strut with a CASTER angle of 90 degres, the strut is now acting as a bumber chock... anyways, when you turn your wheels, the car will never turn, but you will change the CAMBER angle a lot, the outside tire will get a shit load of negative CAMBER and the inside one will get the same amount positive. Good thing is when you are traveling forward, with the steering wheel centered, you will have no CAMBER, so you will have full traction when accelerating or braking.

Bottom line is when you have limited positive camber, lets say a couple of degres, you will be able to run lower static (steering wheel centered) camber, good for straight line, and when you will turn your wheels, you will benefit from good negative camber and have more grip while cornering, but you will have a little less diameter of turning in parking lot though.

The thing about your setting, is that it kinda gave me an illumination. It might work to put a little positive caster but it's istalled in the wrong way as i can see this, except if you want to jack your car. Anyways, after seeing your vid, the camber looks fine that way, but i think it would be better if you would rotate the camber plates so the 2 of them are pointing toward each other at the front of the car instead of the back like you have it set here. What im saying is rotate the strut 120 degres clockwise for the passenger one, and instal the driver one so it is symetrical to the other. Now you will be able to have the top of the strut behind the wheel and still be able to have it close to the tire so the static camber can be as straight as posible when you car is lowered. You might even be able to adjust the rest of the camber trough the 2 bolts that hold the tab if it's not as straight as it whould be.
Can you give me some feedback if you try it?


If you dont, I will make some calculation to see if the struts, top plate, lower control arm, etc.... will withstand the forces in application and try it on my ride. From what i can see i don't think it will stop the suspension from doing it's job and the car should be able to handle the load as it will come. I mean, when you change suspension geometry you are also changing the way forces are applied but in that case I don't think it would be a problem. I just don't like the guessing game so I will calculate .It might take some time again for me to istall them since I don't have a lot of time off or a garage and it's -35 celcius up here. As soon as i can get a full day off at the same time as one of my friend who as a garage, i will be able to experiment. If the suspension can take it while doing it's job and give us a small caster of maybe 5 to 10 degres and a good static camber angle so our cars don't look like a triumph tr6, I don't see a reason for us not to do that. My bigest fear is in the fact that I can't imagine that nobody else tought of it before me, of they did and kept me in the shadows.... i mean, i have never seen a strut istalled that way in my life before. If somebody did try it and ran into problems, that's an other story. If someone did, please get back to us.

P.S. I've been working on cars and following a number of forum for some years now and i can say i know a bit about cars but as you can see I'm far from a big member here and I know nothing about posting. The worst is that this is the first forum on which I ever posted and i don't even know how to post a picture or link or anything but text, feel free to show me, I'm a quick learner.

i just got an alignment. everything is just fine. i did see the links from your post. thanks, tommyboy. my car drives straight now. my gas mileage is back to normal, and i asked the guys at the shop for their opinions on my install. they said i did a good job. the positioning of the top of the strut was off, but other adjustments needed to be made. still complicated on my behalf on how to explain this. but the bottom line is, my alignment is where it should be.

hehe now you can get your 350 to the tank again. lol

^My bad, dont really check out these forums that much. I can live with .5&quot; as long as its stiff and from seeing this video, its pretty damn stiff lol.

i rub a little bit. when i do a turn and hit a bump or go fast over a dip, i'll rub for a split second.

i can still do stock height and be realllllly stiff. it's great. i'm going to dread the day my shocks go soft on me. *crossed fingers!!!*

yeah i installed mine the correct way

i research the hell out of anything i do because it pays off in the finished product.

and you know what they say; a fool learns by his own mistakes, a wise person learns by the mistakes of others.

quick question... Once the coilovers are installed and an alignment is done. If you decide to change the height by adjusting the coilovers, do you need another alignment?

damn.. that is stiff... i should get coilovers next haha my rear w/ TEIN S-TECH... is still soft compared w/ ksport