Engine Optima Performance Module

Optima Performance Module

What up? Hey, I'm looking to add some power to my 93' rolla and I found this performance module on ebay. The link is- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-9...0061 505QQrdZ1

What is everyone's thoughts. Is it for real our a bunch of bull?

haha total bs

but if u wanna give it a shot go ahead not tat expensive
dyno it and let us know

heh

sure. spend a HELL of a lot more than it's worth to get that dynoed with a POS "performance module" that won't do a durned thing for the car.

rrriiiggghhhttt.


to the original poster: here's a pretty good tip. pay to play. cheap "performance" stuff will either be useless, or will break very easily. don't waste your money on it.

uhm, heres what it looks like on the inside:
http://www.skai.co.jp/swmech/step3dps3/step3dps3.htm

hooorah for a little bit of thick wiring in a plastic box!!

It looks like it's supposed to be a capacitor...

Could just be a placebo, too...

Ok, everyone get's a cookie! Now shuddup.

I think Optima Batteries should sue these guys for trademark infrangement.

huh?

capacitor noun
A device giving capacitance and usually consisting of conducting plates or foils separated by thin layers of dielectric (as air or mica) with the plates on opposite sides of the dielectric layers oppositely charged by a source of voltage and the electrical energy of the charged system stored in the polarized dielectric.

capacitance noun
The property of an electric nonconductor that permits the storage of energy as a result of the separation of charge that occurs when opposite surfaces of the nonconductor are maintained at a difference of potential b : the measure of this property that is equal to the ratio of the charge on either surface to the potential difference between the surfaces.

placebo noun
(1) a medication prescribed more for the mental relief of the patient than for its actual effect on a disorder
(2) an inert or innocuous substance used especially in controlled experiments testing the efficacy of another substance (as a drug)

Basically, that device is probably meant to act as a capacitor, but any gains from that thing would be the result of the placebo effect.
That, and the quoted text in my post was a supposed English translation. Japanese tends to not be easily machine-translated.

its a hoax...it doenst do jack crap....

What a waste of "premium" cable!

no, thank you for the me too reponse. I do beleive i was the first regarding this
http://vvti.net/forums/showpost.php...621&postcount=5

Pops up from time to time here... a simple trick but in the long run not good for the car-- runs too rich.

have u guys seen the resistor trick? its wires hooked up to a resistor in a little box and ur supposed to tap it into ur o2 sensor and it tricks the ecu into to thinkin that ur runnin more and colder air

Leaning out a engine would make more power than running rich. That is why running too lean causes an engine to overheat resulting in internal engine damage. That is why people who go turbo perfer to run richer than stoichiometry, because rich is more safe for the engine at the expense of making more power. Also is why most drift cars run rich, to keep the engine cooler because they bounce off the rev limiter routinely.. also cause fireballs.. but at the expense of more power from running at stoich or lean.

When AIT sense colder/denser ait it dosen't need to add more fuel to make the engine even cooler.

Running lean = more power. Ask anyone.

Lean does mean more power. That's for NA cars though. if youre running turbo, you run rich but only to a certain extent to where you don't disturb the air fuel mixture.

And yeah, those "performance boxes" are completely stupid. It's nothing but a mere capacitor connected to some wires. all it does is mess with your sensors to trick it to give more gas or air or something.

lean

It doesn't make sense to lean out the mixture if more air, and colder, is detected. The mixture already gets leaner (when not compensated for correctly) when there is more cold air than when there is less air, or when the air is too warm. Therefore, tricking the system into thinking there is colder air and more of it by adding a resistor to the intake air temperature sensor (if equipped) will force the system to enrich the mixture.

Also, most O2 sensors work on the premise that when the mixture is too lean, the voltage is lower from the O2 sensor than when it is normal or too rich. Adding a resistor to the O2 sensor will reduce the voltage output, signalling a lean condition, and forcing the mixture richer.

Rich.

The resistor trick makes the mixture richer and advances the timing. Ask someone who knows.

Colder, denser air adds more oxygen. Yes, it may have a cooling effect to an extent, but more oxygen changes the air/fuel ratio to the effect of leaning it. (And recall that if you were to lean out the mixture intentionally but your air charge is NOT colder, then you're not getting a cooling effect at all.) A leaner mixture burns hotter, and not necessarily to the effect of more power-- it can greatly increase detonation, and it can burn holes in critical engine parts such as pistons. You may have heard of those. As the engineers know detonation is bad for the engine, they designed the ECU to retard the timing when engine knock is detected. Retarded timing often equals less power-- but it's better than knocking an engine to death.

The upshot of this is that intentionally leaning the mixture (which is not what the resistor trick does in the first place) is not a good way to get more power. (It is, however, a great way to increase NOx emissions.)

^ goes to pepperdine, you best sit and listen

I'm pretty sure James goes to mud

Take it from a person who've seen his share of real world wideband o2 graphs. A stock fuel map is already designed to run slightly Rich. Also you are getting a bit ahead of yourselves, on < 97 corollas and other cars with engines using old fashion distributor ignition systems and speed density sensored fuel systems, timing is not electronically controlled thus no knock sensor. Using a resistor to add more fuel to a ecu that is already running a slightly rich fuel map would make even less sense. A richer ~10:1 AF ratio would rob the car of more power then running stock. And I'm still assuming the point of using the resistor trick is to make more power. Also indeed running too lean will kill your block, but running slightly lean would increase power. I'm talking ~15:1 not 20:1

James, I'm pretty sure your engineering knowledge is greater then mines but while speed density and mass air flow fuel systems does use the basic ideal gas law, it calculate the weight of air going into the engine not volume.. and weight of air depends on many more variables such as temperature, altitude, etc. also it would make more sense that this figure would be measured by the volumetric effeciency sensor (map or maf), not IAT. And you are right that more air would = more fuel to compensate to get the 14.7:1 lamda. (it really dosent take the ideal gas law to prove that.)

I will admit that I do not know for sure how exactly different resistance value on the IAT sensor affects the AF ratio.. BUT if the resistor job is to increase power output, even by a little, making the engine run rich is not the way to do it, and THATS common sense.

17:1 is a LEAN mixture. 17 air molecules for each 1 molecule of fuel, whereas 14:1 is rich. Fuel is protective, so yes, adding fuel will absorb more heat when it vaporizes, hence reducing detonation.

As far as retarding timing - the ECU will NOT retard timing based on lean detonation. The ECU retards timing depending on WHEN the knock sensor detects knock during the combustion cycle. Lean detonation typically happens after ignition, for which retarding the timing will not help - the problem isn't compression, it's heat. The ECU compares the KS waveform to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors to determine when in the combustion cycle the knock happens - knock input gating signal, it's called.

As far as the IAT sensor resistor mod - remember the master control of fuel injection is the O2 sensor. IAT sensor resistor (or anything that messes with the mixture) won't last long - the ECU will see a rich or lean condition and correct it after some time.

Trav

ok so that little part I have mixed up. I stand corrected.. changes made