Engine I would like to raise my redline

find someone with a baseline n/a dyno run.... i'm going to assume that power dropoff is going to start occuring 300-400 rpm's....... generally in racing, the only GOOD reason to raise your rpm limit is so that you can shift less, and when you do, you fall back to a higher rpm range (however, a very torquey motor would want just the opposite).

that all being said, you might want to find out how well the TRANSMISSION would deal with the higher rpm's.... i'm quite sure the motor can handle it, transmission might not be able to.

and obviously many of you didn't read my earlier post.

I don't know what the hack you talking about..... 1zz-fe engine is not design for high rev, why spent so much money on a bullcrap engine, other than getting a powerful car..... haha no dmg on engine... BS... your friend 2.2L, dude, our engine is damn 1.8L man... there is differences..... Big port!@ go study more dude... if you don't believe it, rev you engine over 8k see how long it last without fine engine tunning....

It is all in the ECU. Early 1ZZ-FE (non VVt-i) had a 5700 rpm fuel cut - with an "upgraded" ECM, many have raised their limit up to 6500 rpm on a stock motor. Didn't mean the motors survived - just that you could run it that high. With the later 1ZZ-FE (VVt-i), some where at the 6500 rpm to 7000 rpm limit on stock components. If you plan to build it up - shouldn't be a problem. Though I wouldn't do it just for grins - we are talking about a F-series head here. Design doesn't lend itself to higher rpm breathing and they don't run a surge tank for optimal cylinder filling.

Back to the original post - could you raise the redline? Sure. All in the ECU. Once you put in a capable ECU - really no limit to what the redline is. The module is "dumb" box, it will only follow the fuel maps and preset parameters programmed into it - doesn't care if the engine/tranny is capable of such an elevated redline.

Would it be safe to run on stock components? Depends on your definition of "safe" - though it wouldn't be smart to run it even a few hundred over the redline. If you build it up, should not be a problem. The redline will be a function of how much money you sink into the project.

But on a stock motor (N/A) - to raise the redline to avoid hitting the limiter or fuel cutoff or to end up in the meat of the powerband after a shift is not the smartest way to do it. The 1ZZ-FE is relatively torquey motor - you would get minimal gains if any from this. Once you start playing around with different maps, components - then your in a different ball game.

spellchecker?

well its a 1.8L, yes. But you can make a b16 a b21 with a big bore. So why not a 1zz? Higher reving requires head work. Simple and plain fact of life. I haven't looked inside a 1zz head, so i wouldn't have a clue what the weakness is. The weakness is different in every engine. He; like me, enjoy the 1zz for a reason. the 2zz's lack of tq is horrible. We all have our choices . Some like turbo some like n/a.

There are head kits for the RB26 to make it rev higher. But remember wanting to go all n/a isn't cheap. Or if you wanted to rev higher and drop a turbo would be nuts. But more expensive

you have any idea how hard it is to get a piston to actually get through the block alone?

If you redline it often you can see some real power---a piston shooting through the hood!!! This is one of the dumbest ideas ever!!!!

yeah I dont see how revving the engine to 10K would get a piston through the hood... a dead as shit valve train yes but pistons through hoods are hard to do....

Anyone want to help me do an RX7 rotory engine swap into my 01 corolla Then I can get my redline nice and high and not worry about pistons at all

lol, or you could simply just build up a 1zz to do that. Yes it can be done and yes it has been done.

Woah. You know where I can find some info on some crazy 1zzfe's? I wanted to turbo my motor but if I could get crazy ammount of HP out of it N/A I might wanna go that route

jdm land my brother.

If you go look at an old issue of Super Street in the back is a gold MR-S that has no rev limiter. I can't go more into it because i don't remember more then it can rev to 10k and he has fun on the highway lol

BTW i know this isn't a honda forum. But has anyone herd of a ZC motor? I guess its an old JDM Si motor from the early 90's?

hey turbo4age

Why you so mean for those who are trying to learn how to drive there car better and how to gain hp or whatever they are doing????....And if you are saying all those things about people can't drive there car, can you drive your car????....

if it's a manual, then yes it is..... like i've said before, it's one crystal away from higher revving.... i know from experience

1) Its not just in the ECU
2) The engines are not the same. 1zz's vary.
3) The engine shouldnt be revved above redline.
4) The best way to get 7K is to buy a celi GT
5) " " " " " 6.8K " " " " MR2
6) Make the engine breath better.
7) Theres alot of TQ and HP under 6400.
8) Try tuning.
9) The 5spd gears are "tall"(clue)
10) RESEARCH, DIY.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the GT have the same engine? The correct doesn't redline to 7k because then it wouldn't be a little 4 door sadan now would it

The only difference i see between the celica 1zz and the corolla 1zz. You ever thought they lowered the redline for gas milage reasons? Celica is slightly lower then the corolla in gas milage. Only thing i see is.... the redline!

He is just saying you need practice if your bouncing off the redline.

custom harness for what?

64 wires doesn't sound like fun...... my custom ecu in the aw11 only required 30 or so wires

Thats great, and what would you be gaining by that? Maybe a chance to brag. If you could go to 7K, would you? Look at a celi stock dyno. Change a crystal or two. Theres no reward for more risk of engine damage.

Change the ECU via a hacked up wiring harness is actually safer, but wont get you any HP from 6200-7000. If you want a celi GT engine, then change all the different parts out to get a celi GT. BUT IT STILL WONT GIVE SHIT ABOVE 6200. If you want to do it to say you can do it, thats fine. You WILL get more power where the 1zz makes its power by doing the above. But not above 6200, not on any 1ZZ.

Use your time to do what James is doing- but do it knowing 7K is no holy grail...

BTW- theres only 41 pinouts on the manual ECU's for celi and rolla.

dude like I said before, more money you put into it, more horse power.... why spent on corolla, using the money to buy a better car.

weird my last post didnt show up.... isnt it 2 crystals though...??? thats the info I have... I think its one for rpm and the other for fuel cutoff

i have supplied half of the wiring diagrams around and its much easier changing out the crystals then buying a new ecu and making new hacked up pin connectors... (also 1 pin gone wrong and your screwed...)

Also some people have mods on there cars to allow them to make more power above 6200 and also for shifting purposes....

the valvetrain can handle 7K.... it depends why you need it done... for many its pointless for some its nice to have!

as i said previously (and in many other posts).... mine was with a reason.... a 4afe ecu running a smallport 4age and limiting at 6200 rpm's isn't exactly giving the 4ag what it needs..... my fuel cut is now at 7800 rpm's, i take it there daily and am still making over 100whp at that point.....

and seeing how newer toyotas are non interference motors, worst you'll get (unless you get to the point where the inbalance of the crank/pistons/flywheel actually throws a rod.... which takes more than 7,000 rpm's since toyota has some of the best balanced parts out there as OEM parts go) is valve floatage and a decreasing amount of HP

James, you have teh hawtness car. Another hot car on this website Just thought i would share

lol if you start selling them even better you got ur first customer... I dont feel liek tearing mine up again!

ugh. Wiring no matter what car is a pain in the ass.