custom sub enclosure

According to this page:
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
I need 1-1.5 cubic feet, and 1 cubic foot is 1728 cubic inches. The design I have right now is 1834 cubic inches (14" high

What sub are you using? You will want to build it to the subs specs, not general specs. Especially if its ported.

Also, make sure you mobwes design doesnt infere with moving parts in your trunk

custom sub enclosure

I'm sick of pushing it off. I'm gonna create a couple sub boxes to go in my trunk, and I'm going to use the cutouts in the sides (the areas that sort of go to waste anyway) which should still allow for a full trunk. Just picked up a pair of Rockford fosgate 150watt 10" subs on ebay last night for $44. I have a few questions:
1. I'll be creating them from MDF. Any tips on how to assemble? I'm assuming some wood glue and screws
2. Do I need to use deadening material anywhere?
3. I'm probably going to buy the power connectors from radio shack, but where can I get a hold of those tubes that let air inside?

why are you trying to let air in the enclosure? The enclosure should be sealed or precisly ported.

I thought that's what ports do, let air in? What are ports for then?

nevermind, I got my answer:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/I...s_glossary.html

I dont' want to buy a huge amp, so I'm going to vent it.. Probably just cut a slitted hole on the side.

A ported enclosure needs to matched exactly to the speakers specs or you can cause damage to the sub. Make sure you calculate port dimensions when building the box.

Also, a ported box, if calculated correctly is only 3db louder then a sealed box. Thats not a huge difference.

I almost never use a ported enclosure except for SPL compeititors or a home theater system.

like said above, make sure you claculate the box right... I've found plenty of programs on the next where you enter your specs of the speaker and all and it gives you the right dimensions of the box

-Emo

I'll probably get some dimensions from the trunk, build a model in pro-e, then it will calculate volume for me automatically and I can tweak dimensions until I get the right volume.

rockford fostgate subs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5702840395

I can see the left part of that box interfering with the trunk support. I have a Infinity Basslink on each side of the trunk and it barely clears the trunk support. Actually, they rub it, but because of the design it still closes.

here is a pic:



The left top part of the speaker interferes with the trunk support.

So keep that in mind.

X

That's a nice lloking drawing. WHat program did you use for that?

if you want it to be out of the way as much as possible you may want to look into using fiberglass...Fiberglass DIY

Or if the trunk supports get in the way, try making the front of the box angled.

According to Fosgates specs

*********************************
Sealed -
Recommended Volume (Cubic Feet) - .75



Ported box -
Recommended Volume (Cubic feet) - 1.0
1 Port
Port diameter(Inches) - 3
Port Length(Inches) - 13.25
*********************************

yeah, didn't think about the trunk hinges. I can always taper it down to clear and just extend it a little bit. I said earlier that I created it in pro/e (pro-engineer). Running 2002, but hope to get wildfire soon. Great program.. just extrude a shape, use the shell command, voila! Plus I can measure surface area by simply clicking on the surface, then multiply by height.

a few general rules of thumb when building enclosures :

1. for vented applications, you must set the port frequency properly, remember that when you go below the frequency of the port, your sub will lose the ability to control itself. if you want more bass, put the frequency around 40hz, for better quality, vent the subs below 30hz. the higher frequency that you port it, the more likely you are to blow the sub playing lower notes, so a subsonic filter will be mandatory.

2. if you can not get your enclosure sealed up properly without using glue, there is something wrong and you should start over. you should need nothing more than screws and mdf to make a perfectly sealed enclosure, glue is very bad, and do not under any circumstances use "liquid nails" or any products like that to seal your enclosure. those products become explosive under high heat and pressure.

3. the surface that the subs are mounted to should be 3/4 inch or 1 inch mdf to prevent enclosure flexing. if the enclosure flexes you lose bass, nuff said. if you are using home depot MDF, make it 1 inch thick, the MDF you can buy off the shelf is junk, so the thicker the better. for best results, order acoustic mdf from a lumberyard, or find somewhere online that you can order it from. its the same thickness, but its made from more layers of mdf pulp ( 8-12 layers, as opposed to 4-6 layers for store bought stuff ), real MDF is heavier and more dense than store bought HDF, and it is a more fine blend as well. see pictures of my enclosure at members.sounddomain.com/kepone

4. for optimal results, the port should be on the same surface that the sub is mounted to.

5. make sure to also model your sub's frequency response using something like WINISD pro before you actually build the box. make a box that has the flattest possible frequency response with the maximum enclosure size you are willing to use.

for any other advice, hit me up on AIM

Ok, I've given up on making 2 seperate boxes for the sides. Seems that each side is slightly different shaped, plus I have to make it shorter to clear the hinge.. I took another look and decided to just make one big box to face the seats. Should get better bass response pointed towards the interior, and I can just mount the amp on the back. This is more cookie cutter style, but I already bought the wood so I'll just build it to size.

I have no doubts about your knowledge looking at your sounddomain page, but everything I read says that silicone or liquid nails is ok (and sometimes even reccomended). where is the heat/pressure going to come from?

the heat and pressure come from the sub itself. it shouldn't be much of a problem in your case but with high powered systems it can be. In a closed box the air inside is the suspension for the woofer and when it's repeatedly compressed it heats up. The pressure built up inside can lead to a less than solid enclosure exploding from the high pressure. That's why in db drag races/SPL comps the pros bolt EVERYTHING down...even the doors!

yeah I can see that then. I'm not gonna worry, I'll be running 200-300 watts tops. I'm sure a much bigger system could generate quite a bit of air pressure.

the silicone will be fine, but really stay away from liquid nails at all costs..

you should need to use either if your enclosure is properly made though