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Rear End Links

Discussion in 'Stop, Drop & Roll' started by Machupicchu, Mar 3, 2014.

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    Machupicchu The once a week type of member

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    Looking to see if someone else has installed coilovers and has dealt with the same issue. Basically now that the car is on coilovers the rear sway bar end links connect to a new bracket that can slide up and down on the collar of the coilover. As it gets lower and lower however the collar is forced up more and more and the length in between the new end link bracket and sway bar increases. I managed to connect them by putting a jack under the sway bar lifting it into place, but this put a whole ton of stress on the link and they failed almost immediately. I plan on going lower after pulling my fenders which means they will be even further apart than they are now. Im looking into getting adjustable end links.

    Anybody run into this issue?
    Machupicchu, Mar 3, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    I'm having trouble picturing this... post a pic!

    But generally, shorter end links should be used any time someone lowers a car.
    Goldy, Mar 3, 2014
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    James Bullshit Police

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    Yes, I have this problem as well. The solution here, is actually to get longer endlinks, since the K-Sports' swaybar endlink mount is much higher on the shock body, relative to the lower mount, than the stock mounting point. Furthermore, instead of putting a shorter spring on there to lower it (which would not change the swaybar mounting point), you have to move the lower mount closer to the top mount, which makes it even worse.

    So, get adjustable links, you will want to be much longer than before :naughty:.
    James, Mar 3, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Can't you lower the mount for the endlink, lower on the shock body?
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 5, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ that's what I thought it sounded like, which is why I wanted a pic.
    Goldy, Mar 5, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Yeah I'm a little lost. Coil noob here.
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 5, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    yup and yup
    cBass, Mar 5, 2014
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    Machupicchu The once a week type of member

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    Ya they are as low as can go on the shock body now, sitting on top of the actual knuckle i guess you could call it, and still too far away.
    Added: Mar 5, 2014 9:40 PM


    Thanks! Any recollection of what size/brand end links you went with?
    Machupicchu, Mar 5, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    In for info. Also what orientation are end links supposed to be, completely vertical?
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 5, 2014
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    James Bullshit Police

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    I have not acquired them yet. Will let you know as soon as I do. And if you do it first, let me know. Also, I saw your chatbox about the spoiler a few months back. Sorry about that, but this one on my car is definitely yours.


    It's more the orientation of the swaybar. You want the swaybar arms to be perpendicular to the direction of suspension compression. This maximizes the torque that height displacement puts on the bar, which maximizes your roll center stiffness for any given bar.
    James, Mar 5, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Ah good to know
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 5, 2014
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    Machupicchu The once a week type of member

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    Damn I need them now. I guess it's as easy as disconnecting the rear swaybar and letting it sit at 0 preload and then measure the distance between link and bar?

    Any issues with the front end link?
    Machupicchu, Mar 5, 2014
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    James Bullshit Police

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    Front endlink is fine, it mounts to the lower control arm.

    Just get a set of adjustable ones. Any will work as long as the bolt fits through the swaybar and the mount on the coilover.

    Just adjust it until it doesn't hit the body anymore, extra points if the arms are 90 degrees out from the shock body, but it might not work.

    0 preload, the bar would just hang there, arms pointed towards the ground.
    James, Mar 5, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Ah fuck all this lol. I will wait until I see pics
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 6, 2014
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    Machupicchu The once a week type of member

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    What I mean is, should I be having to force the bar into position or should the end links be long enough that I can just bolt them up? Thanks man, I just want to get the right length the first time.
    Machupicchu, Mar 8, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    im sure you have to force the bar....when i was installing the Stagg struts i had to struggle a bit
    cBass, Mar 8, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Teehee he said force
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 8, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    well yea, i had to force it in. Very hard to do with such a tight squeeze
    cBass, Mar 8, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    You would....
    Goldy, Mar 8, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    :troll:
    cBass, Mar 8, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    Mine fit right on no problem, perfect fit
    Goldy, Mar 8, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    but in all seriousness I did have to use a bit force but nothing too big....im sure it has to have force to be effective
    cBass, Mar 8, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    That's what he said
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 8, 2014
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    James Bullshit Police

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    No.

    You should not have to force anything. The only thing that resists movement of the arms, is the other arm itself. It is supposed to rotate on the body. If it is fixed on the body, that is a torsion bar spring, not an anti-roll bar. If you had to force it that means that you have sway bar preload in one direction, this is incorrect.
    James, Mar 9, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Someone needs a corner valance and proper alignment
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 9, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    Maybe he didn't jack up the car so that the wheels were not touching the ground, like a noob
    Goldy, Mar 9, 2014
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Rofl probably
    MacktasticSlick, Mar 9, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    guilty....:(
    Added: Mar 10, 2014 1:55 AM
    well shit, i dont have a flat surface so one side has to be up while the other down......if i had a flat surface i would have already fixed my ebrake cable...Im sure i did not install it right when i did the rear disc converion since when i lift the ebrake it doe nothing....it brakes amazingly but my ebrake is useless....need to crawl under the car to fix it but ghetto ass streets are not flat and i wont count on $20 stands for my life.
    cBass, Mar 9, 2014
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    Goldy Well-Known Member

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    Both of your tires need to be off of the ground in order to do the sway bar. Every time. That's how it works.
    Goldy, Mar 9, 2014
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    cBass buffalo bell lover

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    yea well not every time you got a flat surface to do it on....why you think both my bars are still wrapped from when irvin gave them to me.....no flat surface plus my 5 speed is wrecked
    cBass, Mar 9, 2014
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