Engine Car not starting

Yes, believe it or not my rolla shat brix. After the disaster that was the 03 intake manifold swap, I gave up and put my old manifold back on. Now my car wont start at all. Okay, I'm going to explain this one time only, I am a very, VERY meticulous person. I double and triple check my work just to make sure everything is perfect because I'm also a perfectionist. So, when I say that I'm sure that all my vacuum hoses have been properly installed, I mean it. Everything has been re-installed exactly to what I remember when I took it apart. (To anyone that has done this) I know I'm getting really needy, but I'm gonna need a step by step write up of everything done in the swap. I need to scrutinize EVERYTHING I did to see if I did indeed make a mistake and where. The only things I can think of that might be causing the issue could be that one of my sensors on my throttle body got messed up when I took the coolant lines off the manifold because everything got drenched ( i cleaned up as best i could). I put the ground wire on the intake manifold between the maninfold and the block instead of under the bolt like I think it was originally. And lastly, my intake manifold gasket might be bad since Ive reused it (am I supposed to use a new gasket?). Thanks for any help. I'm pretty desperate.

Edit:
I thought of the ground wire more and that could definitely be giving me the vacuum leak think I have. I'll update on the issue when I fix it tomorrow. Still please feel free to toss ideas.

What does it sound like when it dosent turn over? Does it turn at all? Power? Any clicking noise? Did you possibly connect a coolant line into an air line? Video would be helpful.

It sounds like it about to start and then bogs right back down. yes it turns to the right and left the steering is still okay.lol jkjk yes it turns over. yes power. no on the coolant confusion. I'll post a video soon.

havent done it yet. the corolla can sit out for a couple of more days.lol

dead battery?

Go get a can of carb cleaner and lightly spray it in there while cranking. DONT flood it or it will go boom out of the intake lol

onl if hes not got a maf

I got a new manifold and throttle body gasket when i did my swap.

Any word on what the problem is/was? Im getting a manifold soon and any information i can gather would be helpful.
I already picked up some new gaskets.

nah my battery is a champ.lol after at least 70 gooood cranks it still had power to start it up the last time it took for it to finally run.

A lot of information James, I'm impressed for sure Im not sure if it ruined the gasket but the gasket was definitely changed since I figured that was one of the contributing factors to my car not running. However it seems you have some info mixed. If it runs a MAF it will run. If it runs on absolute manifold pressure, it will definitely not run. I know that first hand.lol but everything else you said was spot on. Very spot on. If I hadn't figured it out myself I think that this would have definitely been the slap on the face I needed.

See, and you sounds like a perfectly normal human being. I on the other hand reused the old gasket... Fail.

Does anyone want a full legit write up of this swap? all the DIY's I've seen suck dick.

Ill help you write it. They were basically all crap and i went in kinda blind and figured it out, quick2000 and bdub on TN helped out a lot.

bdub has the best DIY so far

Yeah but that one only covers "kinda" the swap for the 01 02 motor. I'll do the other half.

bdub had a 98 corolla, im talking about the DIY he did on here

Well dang.... When you word it out that way your reasoning sounds much more logical. The only conclusion that I can come to is if there is a space between the manifold and the block the engine will refuse to run. I changed the gasket along with moving the ground from the incorrect spot and the car started up and ran like a champ. My theory that the 1zz is a very sensitive motor is proved yet again.lol

^Sensitive Indeed

Update:

After the manifold swap my idle never came down to the desired 800 rpms. Always idles at 1500 when warm and romped on. 1100 when cold. After 2 months of researching and testing one mechanic pointed out something that never even crossed my mind. I have an idle control motor/valve. As you all know we have three "sensors" on our throttle body, the map, the tps, aaand the iac. I remember someone telling me a while ago that the sensor that looks like passed coolant thru is a coolant temp sensor, which its not. Its the iac.. (idle air control).............. idle problems....... idle air control........ Im gonna try replacing that and see what happens.lol

Same thing happened on a Honda i worked on. The iac was dirty so it got stuck open and closed, throwing off the idle. I took it apart and sprayed a bunch of wd40 on it and it worked fine after. Replacing it would be the best way to fix it. Good luck and update when you can.

The iac wasn't the problem. I'll have to keep searching. Next I'm gonna make sure the IAC motor is recieving power.

I was able to fix pikachu's car. All i did was loosen the IAC and turn it either clock or counterclock wise while the engine is running to see if it helps.

I'll give that a shot. All evidence points to the idle air control valve. If it comes down to it, I'll shove a piece of quick steel in and make the hole smaller. I'm done with this shit.

Yeah try it. If you don't have that star bit to loosen the IAC then you'll have to grind the bolt in half to stick a screw driver in there to turn the bolts. He showed up to my house with his car idling around 1300-1400 rpm. Got it down to 900 just by turning the IAC.