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Got my Hotchkiss...

Discussion in 'Stop, Drop & Roll' started by Salty_Dog, Feb 27, 2010.

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    MovieSTAR i hurd u liek?

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    hotchkis breaks more often than most other swaybar companies. poke around subaru/honda forums.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Eh I'm already turned off by them now lol. Besides, I might do autocross someday, then get addicted, so it'll come in handy.
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    FolkenStrategos Well-Known Member

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    .....but they all break.

    and chances are as a corolla owner, you won't have anywhere near enough power to clean break one during autocross.
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    MovieSTAR i hurd u liek?

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    hotchkis break mroe because they are hollow. noob.
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    FolkenStrategos Well-Known Member

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    Ok fattie, learn to type, it's "more" not "mroe"
    and "breaks" because you are referring to more than one incident,

    Hotchkis sway bars are also 8mm or more thicker than their competition, noob.
    :Ewned:
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    Hotchkis is hallow. That's why they're thicker. Solid core bars have more structural integrity. The stock bars are solid as well.
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    FolkenStrategos Well-Known Member

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    That's what I was referring to, they have more diameter, aka, more circumference to make up for being hallow, but yes, i agree to having more structural integrity.
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    I would prefer solid bars. They're easier to install.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    How are they easier than hollow ones?
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    They're smaller in diameter and thus easier to finagle in.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    One more reason not to get them.
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    It's already hard enough having to lower the gas tank.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Mine's usually empty anyway. Eh...
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    rolla02 Corollalcholic

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    There is a world of difference between hollow and solid sway bars.

    The stock Non-Si sway is hollow and the Si sway is solid, they are both close to the same size. I swapped my LX sways for SI sways and its a night and day difference, once I get my suspension it should make it even better.
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    FolkenStrategos Well-Known Member

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    .......
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    rolla02 Corollalcholic

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    Si 28 front/17 rear solid
    LX/EX 25.4front/11.0 rear hollow
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    MovieSTAR i hurd u liek?

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    Being asian, you should've realized you didnt have to lower the tank. Unscrew, twist and pull out the right side. Success. I was an idiot and had a full gas tank, so I used my azn inginuity to figure that shit out.
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    Salty_Dog Old Fart

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    Took the Rolla out for another test drive last night with the new Hotchkiss's. Went on some curvy back roads to try out the handling. On new thing I noticed is a bit of oversteer when I go through a turn. I'll see If I can adjust them, or I just may have to live with it.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    I like the way that it played out. Anyway, kind of back on topic, is it easy to change sway bar bushings with no air tools and 1 person? Mine are all cracked and dry, and the annoying sound is well, annoying.
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    YamahaTundraV8 New Member

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    My brother and his wife Just purchased a New rolla (2010) did Toyota have this included from the factory a rear sway bar? His rolla is the fully loaded Xle if not included guess i'll be helping him update his recent addition. His scion Tc is pretty hooked up hers is next.
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    There is a factory rear sway.
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    e_andree E

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    Thread cleaned up at request of OP
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    its_ikon FIRST widebody

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    a common error that people make is thinking that just because they install the part means it should make the overall car perform better. sometimes its trial and error when tuning a suspension as you may have some other component installed that's not working with the sway bars. i didn't read the whole thread, so is it front and rear? you could try taking the front off and see how that works or remove a strut bar if that that installed. it just depends on how much time you want to spend fine tuning the suspension.
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    GSE21tuner Formerly rollatuner110. Representing AZLexus.club

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    The rear bar is adjustable, right? What stiffness setting is it on?
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    e_andree E

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    Back in the day I was talking to the Toms Parts rep about them producing a rear strut bar, and he was saying the same thing- amateurs think that if they just install every suspension part out there on their ride and call it a day that that would be optimal, which is very wrong.
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    MacktasticSlick TRD whore with 36,000 posts, bitch

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    Yeah I think so, the very first word in the entire thread is "bars" so unless he put two in the front, or two in the rear somehow lol, yeah he has a front and rear.
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    MovieSTAR i hurd u liek?

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    Hotchkis sells their bars for the corolla in a Front/Rear combo, so i'm assuming this is for both. Though their front one they sell isnt that much bigger than a corolla stock, and its hollow...so eh.


    edit: i think its 25mm in the front...and 20mm rear for the hotchkiss, and the stock front is like...23? someone had it posted a while back
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    YamahaTundraV8 New Member

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    Thanks I'll check under that car this weekend when i stop by to visit.
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    e_andree E

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    The assumption that a solid tube is stronger than a hollow tube is debateable.

    It all depends on the diamater.

    A hollow tube with a larger diameter can be stronger than a solid tube with a smaller diamater. In the case of the Hotchkis breaking- most likely due to bad production, or bad materials, and less to do with it being hollow.

    The math (from another site:(
    The thing is a hollow tube CAN be stronger from the standpoint of weight in tosion. Here is why. Torsional stress for a solid or hollow rod/tube is:

    S= T*r/G*J

    Where J is the polar moment of intertia for a tube is:

    J= (PI/64)*((DO^4) - (DI^4))

    For a rod it is:

    J=(PI/64)*(DO^4)

    Since most of the stress is in the outer fibers, removing the inner part of the rod, to make a tube and increasing the outer diameter gives a hollow tube that is stronger in torsion than the rod. It will however, have a larger outside diameter.



    And another equation:
    Ya made me go look it up didn't ya...

    Maximum shear stress (tm)=(Torque [T])/Polar moment of inertia (Ip)
    tm=T/Ip

    substituting r=d/2 and Ip=Pi*d^4/32 you get
    tm=(16T)/(pi*d^3) for a solid bar

    For a hollow shaft, Ip =(pi*r^4)/2

    Assume an inner raduis of .6r for the tube.
    for the solid bar, the Ip = .5*pi*r^4

    and for the tube Ip= (pi*r^4)/2 - (Pi*(.6r)^4)/2
    = .4352*Pi*r^4

    therefor the ratio of tm is .5/.4352 = 1.15 or, more plainly, the tube is 1.15 times stronger than a solid shaft, given the same outer diameter, and material.

    Not only are they stronger, they are lighter too.


    Which is from this site:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-334213.html

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-334213.html
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    its_ikon FIRST widebody

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    i know, but people also say headers when it's header.

    99% of the time these mods are for daily drivers, so i bet people would never be able to tell the difference either.

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