Dropped my car

36 or 38, one of those

the exhaust is just a apex-i muffler, everything else is stock

ok guys, so today i had a full load of people in my car and man was it bad. Some serious rubbing going on in the back. I am not understanding why others have had no problem with this setup but i am. Anyways, I found this on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GEO-...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1205|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Now my rears already have neative camber like around -1.5 or so, is this gonna help me at all? or is my only other option is to raise the back up?

You said you've already rolled the rear fenders. Are they rolled until they're flush? You might want to reroll them. Those camber kits will work. I would also suggest raising a little as well. Maybe by an inch. But then again, why do you have your car full of people? The Corolla/Prizm really doesn't respond well to extra weight in the back. Just stop carrying so many people. 3 people max including the driver. If you can't help it, I would suggest getting higher spring rates from Ksport that don't sag as much under weight. The rears are currently 5 kg. You can upgrade both front and rear sets to stiffer springs. Perhaps 9/7. Do you mind a stiff ride?

yup the rears are rolled ompletly as in flush.
My thing is, lets say its at -1.5 in the rears, those kits say theyre good for almost -1.8, so that means 1.5 + 1.8??? so in total i can have more than -3 degrees of camber??
When i say a car full of people, im talkin bout 4 people, 2 front, 2 back, not like i overloaded the car with 6 or so.
Im gonna give this kit a try and see what happens, but what i said is right tho? bout the total amount of camber adjustment?

ok i just saw this listing also
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GEO-...s?hash=item3a4823e00e&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

whats this all about
1 set Offers -1.75 to +1.75 degrees of adjustment!
2 sets Offer -2.75 to +2.75 degrees of adjustment!
One set replaces upper Spindle bolt, 2 sets will replace upper and lower Spindle bolt.

Also mentioned fronts and rears are the same thing??

It should be as you said. Yes, they're the same.

So now how many pairs whould i buy? if i want more adjustment in the front and back? Just 2 pairs? Not sure how would the fronts adjust more since its already to set all the way as far as negative camber plates go

Leave the fronts alone since you have camber plates already. You won't rub as much in the front anyways.

what is the size and offset of your wheels, and also the size of the tires? I will be dropping my wifes soon and would love some wheel and tire specs.

check your thread i just answered it there lol

ok guys, i tried putting them on today and they were pretty small, compares to my stock ones. Since they were so small, it barely made a difference in negative camber. The stock ones seem to be around 19mm, these were 12mm. Now theres so many of these, im lost as to which ones will fit. Theres a 14mm, 15mm and 17mm. Anyone else ever try on of these on a 7th gen?

Which one these should i buy now?
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=131&PTSet=A

93geoprizm, spray paint (black) your rear brake drum...what happened to you rear bumper where you exhaust at?

Does your suspension have adjustment for a smooth or stiff ride? Try adjust it on the stiff mode maybe that will help.

Don't do neg camber...you'll regret it.

My rear drums are already powder coated candy red. The rear bumper is one of those garage lips which i cut to make room for the exhaust.

My coilovers are set to the stiffest settings from day one.
I have no choice but to go for more neg camber cause of the rubbing. Even if that doesnt solve the problem, only choice remaining would be to increase the height in the rears. I can also do stretch tires but not bout to spend more $$$. I had not heard of people with issues so didnt really know it was a big deal until now. So hopefully my camber bolts come in soon and it resolves the problem

i know its a silly question but have u tried rolling fenders more?

theyre rolled as far as they can go, actually i cut em up as possible.

Nice drop man, I like your wheel set up. I used to run Ground Control coilovers on my Corolla. IMO coilovers + corner balanced is the only way to go.

ok guys, its been a while but i wanted to adjust the height on one side of the car and was not able to move the thing one bit. I wanted to make sure i was doing the right thing

now my coilovers are slightly different as in where you see the number 1, theres another one of those right underneath it. I tried to open them up going the opposite direction with the wrenches provided but was not able to move it one bit cause i guess theyve been in that position for like 6 months. Am i opening the right one?

heres what mine look like

You can lower it by number 1, but it's not recommended. You'll change the spring load. You should lower by the shock body. That's unbolting the 2 giant bolts below and rotating B for your height.

I usually just unlock the bottom most perch and grab the entire shock body and rotate it up or down without unbolting anything.. But that look like a PITA with the ksport looking at the sway bar mount.

sorry but spring load meaning what? My friend who installed them for me did em from the top so thats why today when i tried, i didnt wanna mess with the bottom part cause i wasnt sure.
I wish there was a video of someone adjusting height on these kinda coilovers. Theres written documents also but some terms go over my head and i get lost lol

yea i was thinkin the same, the sway bar end link would be a problem if you did it from the bottom but man, the top ones did not bulge at alllll. I tried with all my strength to loosen them but no go. You guys think i should spray some wd 40 on em next time i try?

Well lowering from the spring is the easiest way, but you screw up the spring load, meaning the spring constant supporting the weight won't be distributed as evenly as the factory spring load setting. When you lower from the spring, you compress the spring like in those cheap coil over kits you see on sale. You're not guaranteed uniform spring constants at all 4 corners which can lead to uneven wear, tendencies to trail left or right, and sometimes alignment problems. In extreme cases of high speed maneuvers(circuit, racing, autocross), which I doubt you do, they can be hazardous.

Like jspex said, you can lower it without having to loosen the 2 big bolts and rotating B. You can loosen the perch on top of B, loosen 2 and 3, and rotate the threaded shock to lower it. There's no need to loosen the spring perches. You might have to manually move the sway bar collars and perches down as you twist it.

lowering the spring would also decrease the amount of available shock travel because part of the shock would end up being already compressed when the wheels are on the ground.

but yea that's one of the reason i wasn't very happy about ksports' build quality. most other coilover have the sway bar bracket just welded to the lower mount so you dont have to fiddle with it every time.

rolla, part B is static. You cannot rotate or move it around. Its part A that can go up or down. Ill give it a try once again and see how it goes

Just spray them with some PB Blaster. Let it penetrate and try again.

Reread my previous post. I said you rotate the threaded shock instead of B. When you first installed them, rotating B is the easiest way to lower before you bolt them in.

hey thanks for the suggestion, bought some today and sprayed it in, it got the job done. Ok so now, just want to make one thing clear, to lower it more, you bring the the down the thread and vice versa, right?

oh ok, cool

Yes. Always lower from the threaded shock. Never by the spring perches.

i lowered it by 1 and and another thing that looked like a 1 but smaller in size. Basically if you look at my coilovers, theres another one of those things between 1 and 2 posted in the pics with the numbers

Those are the spring perches you weren't supposed to lower from... LOL But I guess if they haven't caused any problems for you, then good for you. Hopefully nothing will happen later.