Dropping my car next week

Yea the fronts for now, the backs at a later time when im not working delivery, maybe in the summer when its not raining and stuff, and as far as i know its a conventional dyno, but as far as engine work i have a 2.5" magnaflow cat back with Cold air intake that im curious to find out how much has helped.

well the drop was a success, for anyone who wants a write up i can manage to make an easy one.

pics?

its too dark out, ill have the car washed tomorrow and then ill take some.

OK NOW IM REALLY PISSED, i took like 20 pictures last night on my camera and when i get home to upload them thyre all gone, i was even looking at them in the car after i got done taking them WHAT THE FUCK?

meh shit happens lol

I asked for one please! Im ordering my stuff this week.

Well, i just got back from a friends house, the rear coil install was a complete FAILURE, because it involved bleeding the WHOLE BREAK SYSTEM!!! The front struts were easy, i can write up a DIY with pics.

My repair guide said this and I wanted to ask someone to confirm the bleeding part. That will be a pain huh?

Yea, it will be. Im going back to do it later next week well have more people to help us, though i was told it should only take 45 minutes to bleed. The fronts are easy though as long as you have the strength to unbolt the 2 bolts and some way to compress the spring back on. (i used compressors)


Scratch that, im going back tomorrow and im just gonna cut the holster holding the break line just like in Vamps DIY.
http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=71

I probably should have warned you to use vise grips to pinch the rear break lines while disassembling the rear struts... No one knows until they do it for the first time. When you install them, don't reattach the brake lines to the struts. Then you won't run into the problem again.

i just cut a hole in the struts where the brake line hanger clipped in. was good to go.

I did the same before I got coilovers.

OKAY OKAY im taking down notes!!!!

Why is brake bleeding recommended anyway?

its not recommended, you only have to do it because the break line is physically welded onto the strut which has to come out in order to replace the spring, thw only way to take the strut out without bleeding the break lines (because u have to disconnect the break line) is to cut out the piece holding it in.

Got my toyota candy today!! D





UUUUUUUNfortunatly i broke the spoke on the strut tower that holds the bolt because i over tightened it... so now im taking the car back to a friends house to have it fixed... think itll be okay on 2 spokes on one side for now? there was just a little bit of thread left for me to put on another bolt. JUST A LITTLE.

Dude, that strut bar is sweeeet

There's a reason why there's 3 spindles. Get it fixed. Look up the correct torque specs before you tighten them next time. It should be a little more than hand tight.

What strut bar is that where did you get it?

I was looking around ebay and found a guy selling these, they were for a 90-98 toyota corolla and it was the only strut bat i had never seen before and i liked it so i thought id give it a try. Its made out of aluminum.

Front Aluminum Strut Bar for Toyota Corolla

This New Front Strut Bar Will Reduce chassis flex to improve the steering response. This strut tower brace bar reduces the amount of flex in the car's chassis by tying the shock towers together enhancing rigidity and strength. Each aluminum strut tower is made of high quality aluminum and has cross supports inside of each bar and ridgid mounts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0331471474&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&viewitem=

thats pretty thick

I would get one too, but it won't clear my cruise control. The strut bar I have now barely clears it as it is.

pictures are up go look in the pictures thread tell me what ya think.