Forced Induction My new turbo build.

thats the plan. hopefully its exicuted in a timely fashion.

no doubt shubert. i wish i could get on.

On another thread you asked about a 4age on a 4afe ecu. Using a smallport (non-tvis since the 4afe ecu has nothing to control it) 4age, smallport 4age injectors/fuel rail/sensors. Since my car is a 90 all of the sensor connectors are the same as the smallport (early 4age sensors have wire-retaining clips). ECU was recrystalled by a friend (sorry, don't know the crystal value) to basically change the clock speed allowing for a wider rpm range. Yes, it does change all other values, but i've been running like this for about 6 years and haven't had problems (and at 90mph get over 40mpg, about 32mpg at 60-70 highway and mixed around town driving). RPM limiter is at 7800 or so.

The only thing that is the catch is the distributor and the ignitor. I am using an internal 4afe ignitor (mounted in the cab to a heatsink) externally, and have a 4age distributor wired into the 4afe harness. The bigger catch is that I don't know what motor the dizzy is from, as I haven't seen it yet in an ae86, ae92, aw11, early bigport, late bigport, or US/JDM smallport. Just noticed the other day that the part number is still on the dizzy, and it's for a 4agelu (pretty sure not US). You need to find a 4age dizzy that matches internally to the 4afe ecu that you have on your car (meaning, you need to find a dizzy that fits a 4age yet has the same electronic outputs as the stock dizzy... minus the coil and ignitor as you can make those "external" and rewire them).

This all sounds difficult, but it's actually very straightforward. The ecu was even close enough to run a set of 20V itb's on the car -- only difficult part was getting it to start without a CSI.

I see you went with an MS. I can say it's probably too bad you didn't put it together becuase the MS can be finicky, and knowing how it works helps leaps and bounds if anything were to happen. Tuning is easy and all you need is any laptop with win95 or newer (I use an old old Fujistu Stylus tablet pc with 2000 loaded on it). With the high boost you're running you should get a wideband as well, the LC1 seems to be a common favorite among aw11 owners.

Aluminum dual core civic radiators work fine, we did a similar swap in an Isuzu prepping it for a turbo setup (which ultimately never happened). Becuase of the size of the turbo the rad may not be in the "stock" locations so you may have to repipe some of it, but it's simple enough.

Keep the crank on end, not flat like that. The crank can warp laying on it's side.

thanks for the info its really appreciated. ive been doing alot of reasearch on the toyota ignition systems and it seems the IIA ("fe") ignition input(ne) and out put (igt) are the same (5v pullup on the input and 12v on the output) as the toyota vast("ge").and this is how i will end up running the ms extra on msns distributor mode as jamesL article on diyautotune.

so it would seem to me that some have a 4-1 and 1-1 sensors (same as yours) in the distributor and the rest have others?


also the cranks only on its side for measurements



ohh and iv'e had an lc1 for quite some time now. im going to run gm iat and cts sensors for the ms and splice the ref wire on the tps and use my lc1 as o2 input.



also my 93 7afe has no rev limiters or fuel cuts (double checked on the rpm signal of my old emanage ultimate.

Mine has a 24-4

I have tried wiring in 4age ignitors and they haven't worked. I have an external one from a tercel that may do the trick, but I've had it for like 2 years and haven't tried yet...

I would run EDIS, it's easy to setup and cheap to get the parts.

ive talked to one guy who has a 7afe distibutor running his 20v using megasquirt i know i can get it to work using the 4-1 and 1-1. but if all fails i have a latter model 4afe that came with a crank mounted toothed wheel and vr sensor.its 24-1 if i can remember right. and if that fails i will revert to the edis. maybe instead of the edis i will dig up a bigport and electronics as the board has the 5v pullup on the ignition input circuit and the board would have to be altered but basically you are using the 4-1 signal as points type ignition signal on the m/s .

This is all possible. I personally like EDIS because, like I said... it's CHEAP. The control module at a junkyard (and there is never a shortage of escorts there) is about $10 if the guy at the counter actually knows what it is, the sensor is a couple bucks, and wiring it up only takes an extra 15 minutes or so (very simple/straight forward).

And I found out what the special dizzy is... It's from a JDM Map based ae86. Map based AE92's don't have the correct dizzy. I have the PN as well, if anyone has ties to JDM parts.

i would love that part number. i have an ae86 also and i plan on robbing the head off that when i maxed the potential of a built "fe" head. and i would like to retain my harness and ecu as it controlls the a245e.(car used to be 7afe)

the 86 will be getting a 2.3l a series with the blacktop head and a large whipple or m112 depending on my budget after the crank and rods.

all the electronic babble sounds like this to me : blah , blah-blah , blah blah blah blah.

moore your gonna have to translate some of this for me in a pm on ccc.com. im good with the physics and mechanics , but this ? nooooo.

to put it as simple as possible. Internally on the distributor there is a shaft that rotates with one of the cams. It has 2 different cogs on it with varying number of teeth. The ecu knows where the engine is based off of 2 magnetic pickups within the distributor that sense when a tooth is passing by it. The ignitor takes that signal, sends it to the ecu, the ecu sends back a signal when to fire the coil. The distributor cap does just that, it distributes the spark based on the direction the rotor is facing (which is attached to the dizzy shaft) and sparks through that wire.

On an MS system that is using EDIS, there is no distributor. Using a 36-1 wheel means that you have a "trigger wheel" (which is just a piece of steel with teeth on it.... similar to what a starter ring gear looks like, but smaller) with 36 teeth, one of them is removed. Purpose for the one removed is so that the ecu can know at all times where the crank is. Meaning, when you install the sensor and the trigger wheel, you want to have the missing tooth pointing 90* BTDC (one quarter turn of the crank... 90*x4 = 360* = 1 revolution of the crank)... every time the sensor sees a missing tooth the ecu knows that the engine is at 90* BTDC at that instant.

much better , thank you

hard to see... but per your request....



hahaha... that photo from photobucket does absolutely no good in lower resolution

19100-16080

ND229100-0711

4A-GELU 10 F 8

thanks a million. the info is greatly appreciated! just got back into town today and im going to get the ms wired in tomorrow.