Engine I think I killed it...?

I think I killed it...?

So, my old Corolla has been sitting for well over a year - thought I'd get it back on the road so my mother can use it & save gas (over her Ford Explorer). She hasn't driven it in a while...so I start it up, let it run for a while, and it seems fine. Apparently it was burning a significant amount of oil; her fiancee mentioned a quart a week. No blue smoke, though - said it had gray/white smoke from the exhaust.

Compression was 180/180/180/150, but then I ran Cylinder 4 again and it came up to 180-190. I'm not sure I bled the gauge between, though..so maybe it's an artificial reading and, mayyybe, the HG was starting to go? I hope so, because I'd feel better about what happened later..

Anyway, the spark plugs and wires were wasted...the air filter (K&N on ELP CAI) had actually fallen off, so I replaced the plugs with shiny new NGKs, replaced the wires, cleaned the K&N and reinstalled it. After fighting for a long time with PB Blaster, a sledgehammer and a crowbar, I managed to un-stick the four steelies and put the old alloys back on.

Fuel injector cleaner and half a tank of gas went in as well - it'd been almost empty for a very long time (not good). I decided to try Seafoaming the engine, as I've heard good stuff about it...so, I follow the directions to the letter - let the engine warm up, pour about 1/3 of a pint (slowly) into the throttle body...it seems to be working as described - exhaust starts smoking a bit...the engine lugs a little, etc. No big deal. I shut it off and let it sit for five minutes (per instructions), then start it up again. It smoked a lot. That's what the can said would happen, so alrighty then. Well, I'm working elsewhere (probably screwing with the aforementioned intake problem) and I see something dripping from the engine. Not good. The coolant was overflowing. I stick my head inside and see the temp gauge pegged. Not just warm...but max'd out. At this point, I'm just a little pissed...shut it down, check compression. Well, it seemed to be dieseling on me, so I let it cool and checked again. Cylinder 4. ZERO. Damn..not good. Cylinder 3. ZERO. Cylinder 1. ZERO. Cylinder 2, 120psi. Well, crap.

I checked out car-part.com and I can get a sub-100k engine for under 500 bucks. The car has just over 200k on it - do you think it's worth dropping a whole engine in? I'm not too keen on doing a head gasket, if it'll take the same amount of time...and I'm not even sure the head is okay - I don't know how long it ran hot.

A 2ZZ is at least $1500...I don't want to spend that much..at this point, I'd just like to get it on the road with the least money as possible.

so if i read this correctly, seafoam killed your engine?

I'm not entirely sure if Seafoam caused the HG to go, which caused the engine to overheat...or if the engine overheated, causing the HG to go. As I didn't have any heat issues when test-driving it before, I'm inclined to believe that it's somehow related.

I spent almost all day working on it, too.

Hence why I don't use seafoam. A new cheap motor is a good idea.

This was the first time I used it - no way in hell I'm trying it again.

Went from laying a 30ft+ strip of rubber (no ebrake assist, 200k mile engine) to trashed in one easy treatment.

I can't believe anybody thinks seafoam is a good idea. I've read a good 50 people say the can says to suck the can thru a vacuum line.

... good god no.

That sucks Josh, Whoever was driving it overheating and burning a quart of oil a week needs to repair it. Because that's outrageous.

I don't use any engine treatments or additives other than BG 44K. That stuff is godly and the only stuff proven to do anything. However, I wouldn't abuse it either.

To my knowledge, this was the first time it has overheated. At only 200k, I didn't want to swap the motor already. It's still cheaper than them replacing the car, though.

Maybe I need to tell Doc to hurry his trip up..

True that

I think you should be able to find a better deal on the engine.

Just checked the second page at car-part..found one with 154k for $270! There are a ton for $400.

Do I need one with a m/t, or can an a/t engine work also? I want to keep the Fidanza flywheel..I've never looked at the auto trans engines - can I just bolt the flywheel on..?

that sounds more like it

nah, automatic trannys has a torque converter attached to a flexplate instead of a clutch attached to a flywheel. You can use a 3 speed auto but if you wanted the 4 speed auto you'll need the wiring harness and ecu as well.

So for the easiest drop-in installation, I should try to find one with a manual trans, to avoid wiring hassle/etc?

I'm kinda hesitant to buy a used unknown-history engine with 150k on the clock...wonder if it's worth a little extra for one with less miles.

yes,

I'd try to find something with less than 100K, is there any warehouses in your area that specializes in used engines? They usually charge less and give you a warranty.

Not really...I live in northern NH. Maybe there's one near Boston..I could take a trip down there easily enough.

hasn't killed my engine...

and I've run it 20K miles after my first treatment....
probably the whole year stopped did more to the engine and seafoam was just a catalyst or never actually played a part on the demise of it

It's possible, but I had 180psi compression before and 0psi after...unless the thermostat randomly stuck shut, I'm at a loss.

did you notice if the electric cooling fan came on? and after sitting for a year (like you said) a ~$4 thermostat would be one of the first things i replace.

I did drive it and let it run for a while before this, and the temperature went right up to normal and stayed there. I don't recall the fan, either way...but I imagine it would've overheated earlier, had that been the issue.

well if the fan isnt working... it wouldnt overheat while your driving, only when sitting idling.

It idled stationary as well.

Blah...this was supposed to be easy.

Wow.

I've never used Seafoam, despite rave reviews it always just seemed like a bad idea to me.

Anyway, you can use the auto engine just fine, just swap out the flexplate for your flywheel and away you go. In fact, it's generally considered that an auto would have been treated better than a manual... no lugging and no high-revving. Just make sure that you get one from '98-'99 with the twin coil packs.

Besides that suggestion, we could always do a swap in it like maybe a blacktop 20v or something cheaper than a 2ZZ, except that only the 2ZZ will pass emissions.

One of my employees is looking for a good Corolla body with a blown engine for cheap, for doing an engine swap in. If you just want to sell it and get it gone I'm sure he would take it, of course we'll have to figure out how to get it here...

-Doc

I'm not sure what type of emissions tests that Maine has..I'd have to look into it. Do you know what it'd cost to put a blacktop 20v in, compared to another 1zzfe?

Selling it is also a definite possibility. I haven't tried driving it around (just moved it in the driveway) but I imagine it probably wouldn't be a good idea to try. It does have a perfectly good Fidanza flywheel and ACT HD clutch...