Forced Induction Vamp's built engine install progress (updated with pics)

that's because :rule: when it comes to random facts about crap like that.

D i sent you a PM.

Sleeves installed and bored out from 79mm to 82mm.


Deep dished 8.8:1 pistons.


Crower rods with MWR bearings.


I'll need to take an underside shot of the head showing the new valves.

are you doing this yourself? or are you at MWR right now?

I only ordered parts from MWR. I had a machine shop install the sleeves and pistons. I'm assembling and installing the engine in my parents' garage, which is where those pics were taken at last night.

lookin good

I'm going to take out the BOV spring so that it stays open and prevents my car from making boost until I get the engine broken in.

Man, only 5? Lol. I might be able to keep it around 7 beause of my wastegate spring.

I'd just remove the turbo until later, i just got an idea we should try a compound turbo with our engines, D do you wanna be the gunea pig?

that is one beautiful engine you have there...make sure it stays that way!!!

Compound turbo??? Where've you been man? Gimme a call when you get the chance.

Pics from this weekend. First, the damage from the old engine.


Here's a shot of the engine bay after towing it to my parents' house.


The upper hole hit and cracked the power steering pump, most likely causing the fire.


The AC pump saved the radiator from the two chunks of block that came off the front.


The camshaft timing chain gear lost a tooth.


This caused the chain to jump and bent the camshaft positioning socket.


The oil pickup got hit by flying rod as well. Note the piece of block still attached.


The underside doesn't look too pretty.


There must have been 150 small chunks and shavings of metal in the pan.


Here's the fire damaged area.

And now some new engine pics.


This is a modified 2ZZ-GE head gasket.


A shot of the new valves installed.


Reinstalling the cams after getting the head bolted on.


Steve needed to use three extensions and an impact to get stuck bolt out.


The engine and transmission are finally out.


Time to sit and relax for a few.

D i finally got my phone up and right now i'm currently off, i've been working odd hours and doing meetings with our higher up's, but give me a call and i should answer.

I swapped out my 1ZZ water pump for a more efficient 2ZZ one.


The turbo, downpipe, and wastegate dump tube.


Close up of the turbo showing the the oil return fitting.

Well, the project has been on hold for a few weeks because I was busy moving. I'm hoping to have it back in by this weekend, assuming I can get some assistance reinstalling the transmission and engine. I did manage to crack open the transmission to install the TransGo shift kit (and spill all the remaining ATF out onto the floor). Yummy, nothing like 3 year old, stagnant ATF fluid going everywhere.

The engine's back in. All that's left is to hook up all the hoses, electrical, and after market parts and readjust the injector ratio in eManage. It's a .078% increase from 1794cc to 1933cc displacement, so I adjusted my injectors from 265cc to 286cc. I don't know how much more adjustment is needed since I went from 10.5:1 to 8.8:1 compression ratio.

Steve and I got the engine back in Friday night, but were not able to get the car started. It wasn't holding any fuel pressure, and we thought there was a leak. Turns out that from sitting so long, the gas had evaporated enough that there was too little to get the car running.

I went out and bought a gas can the next day and filled her up with 5 gallons. The car still didn't want to turn over. We checked everything out, but still no sign as to what was wrong. We had removed the intake manifold so that we could get to the harnesses behind it and check the sensors with my multimeter. The crankshaft positioning sensor turned out to be dead. We were lucky that Auto Zone had one in stock since a customer had ordered it, but decided to not pick it up. The car still didn't work after putting a new one in.

We looked over everything again with the help of another Toyota tech. We knew we were getting gas and spark from the night before, so next was to check the timing. The valve cover was removed and the cam gears taken out and checked. Everything looked fine. After working for a few more hours, we found that the MAF sensor wasn't reading the correct resistance. Steve needs to retest it with a high quality multimeter, but if it's dead, that would explain the problems getting the car started and why it occasionally backfires. Ug, I hope that replacing it will fix the problem. That part ain't cheap either. Maybe now would be a good time to upgrade to a WRX MAF.

or a MAP sensor... why stick with a maf?

The MAF works fine and there's no reason to change it out. I have the MAP sensor for my eManage installed that handles the fueling according to boost levels.

good job! i wish i were as talented with cars as you guys are...
:sigh:
but priorities first. 1. study 2. get a job 3. spend money on car.

keep us posted! *crosses my fingers and hope engine goes well*

Vamp, I dont know if you would be interested, but since my accident, Im probally gunna part out my car (if the insurnce deems it a salvage title). Would you be interested in purchasing my Emanage Ultimate? I can yank out the extra harness youre gunna need for it.

well that makes no sense. you have a map setup installed and working but you still keep the maf :superconf
do you want to make less horsepower than you could?

The MAP sensor is for the eManage only. There is no way to eliminate the MAF sensor on the car with my current setup. The MAF sensor is only there for the car to idle and run when not in boost. As soon as boost is seen, the MAP sensor on the eManage controls the fueling and timing.

Anyway, Steve tested my MAF with a more precise multimeter and it checked out okay. He thinks it might be the coolant temp sensor. If it's bad, it would prevent the car from cranking over. It also might explain why my radiator fans occasionally turn on when I put the key in the ignition.

SkyAce, how much for the Ultimate? I would like to upgrade from the eManage blue to that, but I dunno when I'll be able to budget that in.

I was gunna put it up on ebay for $300. With the box and the harness. I paid almost double for it new, but that seems to be the going price for used boxes.

If you want to try and get the car started just unplug the sensors you beleive was screwed up, in the absense of data from the sensors I'm pretty sure the ECU will try to use set values inside of a safty range.